Regis

"I wouldn't change a thing about mine. I used several other versions before ....... " And yours is about 400 bucks less than mine(*&**%$#). Since I've become addicted to bows, it's about time for me to put some of my 'exotic' jewelry tools on ebay! Regis

There is an 'option' for Foredoms called an "Allset". This gives you a small table and adjustments for depth and distance from the guide. It's like having a small router table with reasonably fine adjustments. Jewelers use them for cutting precise channels (and other milling tasks). You could even adjust to cut multiple spaced purflings. Regis

One reference I have shows him making violins from 1965 to 1985. First name is Alvis and he is from/in Arlington, Va. Don't have any pictures or other facts. Regis

That was quick! You are exactly right. The top of the mortise is a nice fit BUT, it is wollowed out where the eye sits. I'll be able to fit a thin piece in and it won't eve come to the top of the mortise. Thank you, Regis

I'm restoring a very old pernambuco bow stamped Bausch. I expect that it is a German copy 1900'ish with a good bit of wear. I've cleaned it up and rehaired it. The frog 'tends' to rotate slightly because the seat area is worn. I've tried a couple frogs for fit but, there is just some rounding. If I hold the frog straight while tightening the button screw, it is the best bow I've come accross. It faulters drastically in tone though if I just tighten the hair without holding frog straight. Any thoughts? Probably never be able to sell it but, it sure performs great for me. If it were a customer's bow, I would be stuck without being able to repair. I'd appreciate any advice (but, no I won't throw it away). Regis

I know there are wide differences in bows. Has anyone found a given bow plays different with different strings? Is it possible to match a bow to different brand strings to get desired tone? Or does a bow play the same on equal quality instruments reguardless of strings(also similar quality)? I may need to start building a mattrix?? Any thoughts or previous experience? Regis

Is there a tailpiece wood that totally dominates the best violins, e.g. ebony? Or, is there variety even in the great instruments? Regis

I expect to buy new but became very curious when I could not find used ones. I was hoping people kept them because they liked them (even as spares if they advanced). I did want to find out if they were being discarded or donated to schools. That would make me want to save a little longer to reach a little higher. Thank you, Regis

So there is a point in time/experience that it really comes out even! Well done...from someone struggling down the same path. I was 'real' skeptical about using CT's alcohol burner method to shorten hairs. But, am pleasantly supprised that it works so well. Only thing I'm doing different than ctviolin's instruction is putting rosin on the plug(4 sides). I once had a 'very' fast demo of rehairing. And that is what I got out of it, rosin on the plug. I finely have plenty of bows now that I can use and can actually tell the difference between every one of them. I don't know the cause of different tone or handling...that's just another interesting area to learn. I have learned that just because a bow is very old, that doesn't make it sound good. With some successes now, I'm really getting to enjoy restoring and rehairing bows. Will "shout" when I finally get one with EVEN hair when the plugs and wedge are in! Sure appreciate all the great info from people on the forum. Regis

I've not seen any used Eastman 305 violins for sale. Do people like them so much that they keep them and don't trade even when moving up? I'm in small town so I pretty much look on internet and haven't seen any for few months that I've been looking. Thank you, Regis

I only have small spools 50yard flat waxed and they are $3.50 - $5 depending on where you buy. I would buy at a 'real' fly shop and not big discount house though. Better chance of good quality and explaination of differences. Regis

Appreciate all the help/tips and here's a tiney payback for tying hair ends. I've found that the very thin, very strong, and waxed thread I use for fly tying is great for tying hair. Even the spool/thread feeder makes tying those ends tight and very neat (even with larger fingers). Using different Colors is also a good way to ID different hair lots or quality. Regis, who is very thankful for this forum to learn from.

"grind up a large gumball ( get the pun) of rosin to a fine powder " And how does one do this...may I ask? Without putting some bad taste in a kitchen appliance ? Regis

I sure want to thank you all for the input. Not as 'cut-n-dry' measuring/counting as I thought. Inspecting the hair/knot that I remove has helped in another way. My tying thread, although strong enough, is much tooo thick and that's why I've had trouble even with the right amount of hair. Also, I sure want to learn/advance to take into account the stiffness of the bow. I never gave that a thought! I had been working with the same 4 bows (over and over) for practice and ran into problems when I went beyond those 'cuz' I thought I knew what I was doing. Again, thanks, Regis

In learning to restore/rehair bows, I'm seeing a difference between ferrule and tip widths. This puzzels me because I don't know how to adjust the amount of hair to fit correctly. Should I be concerned about filling the width of the ferrule or tip plug? All the literature I've seen says about(?) 150-200 hairs. It seems easy to "overload" the tip. What really determines the amount of hair? There is only a little difference in ferrules but, a lot of difference in tip plugs. I have to believe any significant concentration of hair approaching the tip makes a difference to the player. Help or clarification appreciated. Regis

Normally would not jump in here because I'm not making violins 'yet' but, one technique I've use in past is cutting with brass tubing. Normally, you would use this for plugs but, best part is there is NO outward pressure by the bit. You simply choose brass tube the size you want, file teeth into the end (more=smoother) and you have a drill bit. Cutting through thin wood, I turn by hand. Well, back to hairing. Regis

The Wake book is very good on repairing the stick. Sounds like I'm doing similar as you,,, that is working my way though pound of hair to learn. It sure would be great to get to one of those workshops. Did get to see a very good demo and it looked soooo easy, even, and perfect the 1st time. That did help but, I need a lot more. Maybe I should get the Strobel book because the demo started with frog. Regis

I have an electric hotplate with fine control for about 50c - 250c. I don't know the best temperature yet but, it's a lot more stable than the heat gun I've been using. It is for jewelry work in heating various liquids. Everywhere gold plating supplies are sold will have them. Regis

References are just that. A catalog of facts. Being reletively new in this endeavor, I like having a documented reference when I get to touch/feel/play an instrument. I sure agree that shopping/trying instruments at every opportunity is the most valuable knowledge. But, it also is good if you can corroborate/challange/add what you learn to reference material building our overall knowledge. For me, reference books help me organize my knowledge (even the small amount that I have). Regis

A Josef Potzl was making violins in 1875-1910 in Warsaw Poland. That's all I know.

Just looked it up and "Paganini" was used as trade name from 1920 to 1926....at least by the data that I can find. That's pretty much 80 years old! Also found 6 individuals named Paganini. I'd bet they are not all the same value/quality. Regis

I've purchased some very old elephant ivory that I plan to use restoring bows. With the current restrictions, does anyone know if documentation must go with each bow? If so, what kind? I have, of course, the description and receipt for my purchase. Surely someone else is cutting up old ivory for the same use. Thanks, Regis

Coin silver will shine well and wear well. 90% fine silver for shine and 10% copper for strength. Regis

I've searched the archives and found Nickel, German, & Sterling silver are names that are kicked around without definition. Here is some clarification. Fine Silver is 99.9% silver Sterling Silver (Established by England in 1300) is 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals (various formulas but, mostly copper). Sterling is often stamped .925. US Coin silver (1964 and earlier) is 90% silver 10% copper. 950, 925, 900, 850, 800 are various stamps used through the years in different countries. The number refers to the parts per 1,000 that are fine silver. Nickel Silver is a copper alloy (Copper Alloy Nos. 730-779 incl.) — Copper alloys containing nickel and zinc, formerly sometimes called German Silver. These alloys are primarily used for their distinctive colors which range from yellow to silvery white. That is the jeweler side of me comming out! Regis

What is the oldest bow seen with the word "Germany" originally stamped in it? Did that become common in the 1930's or much earlier? The thread on Czech has been excellent and thanks to all as that is my family heritage. Thank you, Regis