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Everything posted by Regis

  1. Regis

    Bow Rehair

    Quote: "Can we do a trade (some hair for a DVD)? " I'll take you up on that....and I only need 4 or 5 inch length. Sure worth A DVD in my book! But, not bleached white, please.
  2. I hear "lack of paper trail" a lot and am curious. Is that because some pernambuco may be smuggled? Or is it because it is the "only" thing that diffrenciates 2 will made bows that feel and play the same? Curious, curious. Regis
  3. I have to agree with raymanrmd123. The instrument that a player uses professionally (primary business or income source) is a professional violin. I don't think someone in that catagory would risk their livelyhood on something that does not promote or fully communicate their skill. If you are looking for a cutoff price, I'm affraid you are probably out of luck.
  4. Quote:"USA. WATCH OUT!!!! LOL" As soon as the Chineese business & wages rise, attorneys will start emerging to take(*&^*(%^#) their "non-producer" cut, thereby further increasing cost. I heard long ago, the best way to compete with the Chineese in the future is to offer to subsidize their law schools
  5. I guess I'd have to suggest 1 other way. First, relax and ponder the situation until evening. Second, go inside leaving the door open and then simply try each switch while peering out the door!
  6. I use AuctionMagic and have for a few years. Buy it one time (cheap..about $15) and use as often or little as you wish. They update often..free. There is a new remote version that I've not used and don't need. I actually use it more to watch what things sold for. And, someone will actually answer e-mail when you ask a question. Regis
  7. Well, now I see the end of auction banner. 'was just a little hasty. Not one I was interested in but, came accross that photo while browsing.
  8. I would interpret that as saying: "Don't blame me for putting too much hair on this bow! The owner (or my boss) insisted even though I told him/her that it would sound better with less hair."
  9. I bought a bow from this seller back when they accepted PayPal. I paid immediately including high shipping/handling. Bow was as described/pictured BUT, it was not a pleasant experience. Even though I was confirmed by PayPal, seller would not ship until money transferred to his bank and then his bank notified him of confirmation of receipt from PayPal. Normally when you use PayPal, the item arrives in a few days not a few weeks (within the USA). I had begun the "Item not Received" process when it finally arrived. Regis
  10. QUOTE: "I was taught another way of examining the strength/camber of a bow. With hair loosened point the bow to a blank wall (as you would to examine the straightness), turn it on it's side (hair to the left, stick to the right), loop a finger beneath the hair about three inches in front of the frog and pull. This should immediately display any humps and bumps and crooks created by weak spots. An evenly strong bow will straighten evenly from frog to tip." Falstaff, Thank you for the excellent tip. When a "hump" is present, in the middle for example, how do you approach correcting that? Using that method, I'm looking at one I'm working on that exhibits a slight hump covering about 6" long and centered slightly behind of middle when the tip is pulled straight with the butt (using this method). This bow's camber is very evenly distributed, frog to tip as is its taper. The deviation is only a couple mm but, enough to easily notice. When fully tightened with the screw, there is no evidence of hump (but the tip does not come fully straight). Great discussion!
  11. 2004 sales of $3450 & $5463 in Tarisio Redbook
  12. Looks like 2 of his violins sold last year in Tarisio auction. Both made in 1932 Regis
  13. Quote: "Thanks Jimbow, you are much too kind. " That is not too kind. It is gratitude for unselfishly helping many of us for "at least" a few years here on Maestronet.
  14. I sure agree with the "not shiny" surfaces and thoroughly clean. I don't know about minor scoring as I always thought that was for non-porus material such as metal or synthetics. To me, of most importantance to acheive a strong/permanent glue joint is a perfect fit and clean. Then using enough glue to cover surface (after any soaking-in that is). Other things are important also like immobilizing while drying and using fresh glue.
  15. I'm "restoring" a bow that has a relatively large piece broken out on the front side of the tip mortise. The cheeks are fine and you can not see anything from the outside but, there is no wood under the plate for about 3mm (and jagged). What is correct? I can drill/cut out evenly and plug the hole. Then cut new mortise. Or, I can use a filler? Or? The value is probably only $750-$1000 but, I still want to restore it correctly as if it were a very valuable bow.
  16. Regis

    Bow Hardening

    Quote: What do you mean by a hardening process? What is the hardening procedure? Evenly heating the entire bow to a temperature a little higher than necessary for cambering. But, of course not hot enough to burn.
  17. One other good thing about Dov. He carries some different tailpiece lenghts (e.g. 110mm & 105mm). I've gotten some so that I could get 55mm after lengths( D on the G) where standard 115mm would not work. In your case, if you are pleased with your tone, measure your tailpeice and be sure to get the same.
  18. Best, of course, is to take it to a luthier. On my bench, first a very detailed inspection for sure. Let's say that we've done a complete inspection of all seams, edges, neck angle, pegbox, bassbar, corners, purfling and surfaces for cracks and old repairs. And, the "only" thing wrong is broken edge near chin rest and back has open seams. I'd clean the glue from the loose back. Heat up my hide glue (don't even try anything but the real thing). Line up clamps and trial fit back exactly. Then glue and clamp. Then find wood with matching grain to replace the broken edge. Shape it to fit (with grain lines matching) then glue with hide glue. Then match color and blend in replaced edge with original. It's probably not that simple. You may have to do things like open and trim ribs at the button or secure linings or blocks. As I said in the beginning, the best path is to take to a luthier for "hands-on" advice.
  19. That is mis-leading or mis-representing the item but, $565 is not out of line if it is "all there and glued" and worth even more if it plays well. It's not quite like the sellers pushing fake violins for many thousands of $$'s. I don't agree with fake lables at all but, I do understand getting $500 violin for $500. Using fake lables (even if declared) is still bad partly because the buyer may try to sell as "authenic" for $K's to the next person and, actually get it. The $500 violin for $500 sellers with fake lable should be banned. But the $500 violin for $30,000 sellers with fake everything should be jailed.
  20. That's basically what I've decided to do after reading the comments. I'll add extra items and a note explaining the over-bid. Thanks all for the ideas & comments. Regis p.s. I'm not the one using regis(some number) as an e-bay name
  21. When you restore, you may not have the luxury of dealing with a predictable, new wood surface. One thing that has helped me is to use an old junker as a test surface. I can crack it, chip it scrape it, or anything else (to match a problem) so that I might test/try a color, finish, or technique. I even take pieces out of it and cut to fit/fix small missing pieces. This is particularly useful on edges. Or, carve or gouge out a 1mm deep and 1-3mm wide strip to fit and match grain on a carved out strip/cavity where someone has poorly repaired a crack (solid but poor ugly surface). It is a good reason to buy an "old", cheap broken e-bay violin. I don't have as much experience as some on this board so I need some place to test and make mistakes.
  22. I was cleaning out some drawers and through a few things on e-bay. Value (?) $1 to $10 for the whole lot. Could have trashed them but, it gave me a chance to try ebay's new TurboLister beta version. Now, someone has bid far too much and there is a couple days to go. Even though I accurately described them, I just will not take that much. But, how does one resolve this? After bidding completes, I guess I could tell them just to send $5.00. Or, I could add some descent stuff to make it worth the price. I'd appreciate any ideas. Regis
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