Regis

Right, it is Pedersen. Arthur or Leon up to the early 1990's. Don't have any pictures or other data. Regis

Baxter's database shows 2 Pedersons working in the 90's. One in Wisconsin and one in Minnasota. As far as the damage, the rosin probably isn't too much of a problem but, a luthier would have to look at the heat damage. Regis

There has been many threads about achieving 'authenic' color and finish on instruments. Does anyone know what Stradivari or others used as continers to mix or store 'varnish'? e.g. copper or clay pots would likely have an effect on the color and perhaps chemistry? As I begin experimenting myself, I'm curious about what to use for mixing? Thanks, Regis

Just a short story: About 17 years ago, I came up with a radical new fishing lure. Tested good, had independent testing done and all was well but, it never sold. Had a chance to discuss this with one of the nations major developers and what he said bears truth in many fields: "I've seen several lures that are great but, radically different. If you want to market one that is radically different, you must have very deep pockets, hire well known professionals to promote it, and if it doesn't produce instant success to the 'usually amature' buyer that tries it, then it is doomed to failure". He went on to say "If you want a successful product, you are much better off making very slight changes/improvements to an existing design." You can, of course, make most anything in "radically different" form for self enjoyment but, promoting to others, who are paying, is a different story, even if you know it is great. Regis P. S. On our last move, I disposed of thousands of otherwise great fishing lures.

Don't different string brands/lines respond differently to different tension? Also, would you expect/need a "settle in" time for a bridge (& post) relocation or would the immediate effect be permenant? Regis

The tip is very light 5 grams (0.179oz). A friend told me there were some metal bows back before the 50's that had screw on tips similar to this. This one is not threaded, just 1 1/2 inch smooth taper. No patent numbers.. ..... I think I should polish it up and set it on a bow (new hair and all) for a display in my collection. Regis

Got these 2 interesting/humorous items in recent 'low cost' purchases. The bridge was on a reasonable violin that was described as "ready to play". This one should have been in recent discussions about carving bridge feet (flat as a table)! The tip was on a bow describes as "one has metal tip and the other says MANY". The violin will turn out to be a pretty good student instrument but, the tip is just a collector item for me. Bridge and bow tip Regis

All I found was a picture of the lable in the cdlabs database. There's nothing in the Tarisio Red Book (wouldn't it be great if their Red Book showed pictures!). I don't even find him in the Fairfield book. Of course none of this helps itentify but, it increases the chance that no one is likely to copy him. Somewhat like the Rubus that I have!!! Regis

jmasters, Is this the same information by Pickering? Article by Dr. Norman Pickering Very interesting. Regis Another look and "no" it is not about bow quality but, still interesting. Regis

Local friend told me that she beleives "Stenzel" is a trade name used by a Korean maker. Does anyone know? Does anyone here sell them? tx, Regis

Craig, That is just an outstanding response to an excellent, difficult, and often asked question. And it's length is just right for proper framing! Thanks, Regis

Yep, my point was both. That a 'bad' break and ugly repair caused a big drop from the $3,000 range but, I still thought it's too high of a start bid, IMHO. Unless you could actually see the detail under that winding to know if it can be cleaned up. I use the methods from HS Wake that show little and are strong and I don't know how they made this serious of a repair a 100 or more years ago. I guess you are trying to tell me that this was normal and probably good repair. Regis

There have been a number of "repair" discussions in this forum so check out the Tubbs bows at items 135 and 379. And starting at only $550 for #135? I'll bet there is no claim of who did the repair. Surely there is a decimal point in the wrong place??? (unless that was just adding very ugly weight??)! regis regis

The Tarisio May auction is online. Hope no one else bids that bow I'm after! Regis

Your points are well taken. I guess as long as I don't mis-represent as 100% original when I sell. Quality and amount of the restore would be judged by subsequent owners. tx, Regis

And, in this case, they got their positive feedback from selling relatively inexpensive clothes. 20Eur t-shirt or pants to $$$$ violin. That's quite a leap.

Violins are commonly marked "Repaired by......19nn". Is there a proper way to designate when a violin finish is restored and then just setup? Or is that always considered "repair"? Does it need to be marked every time the top is removed? I do want to correctly mark what I work on even if they are only in the under $5K class thanks, Regis

Thank you all and it's done. Manipulated the wood and I had one of those suction cups that I used like Michael said. I don't know if it got all through the crack like Jmasters said. Don't even know if it would have been better to remove the top. Could have got glue on both sides but would still not be sure it got in at the ends of the cracks. The plunger and moving the wood definately moved the glue plenty in the cracks. Thanks again, Regis

I'm working on a viola that has a number of fine/thin cracks in the top. It appears to have been in too low humidity somewhere? I plan on working hide glue into the cracks with a stiff fine brush and then clamping. There is a little movement in the cracks when I test clamp so I believe I can get glue in if thin enough. Is this the correct approach?? Thanks, Regis

T_Rocca, This doesn't help you but your raising the issue may help others. The Tarisio shipping policy says: "Tarisio will arrange for the packaging and shipping of the Lot in accordance with instructions provided by the Purchaser." After learning what happened to you, I'll be absolutely sure to specify insurance 'if' I ever bid and win from them. Regis

You're right.... just had that box of waxes in front of me and forgot (getting old) about the "Renaissance Wax". Plenty of discussion previously on this wax on this board. Regis

As far as waxes, here is a link (from my other life) for some extremely hard drying wax that are also UV blockers (I believe). goto -checkout complete line of waxes- I know it is a 'metals' site and you wouldn't use the patinas or solvents. But, I've used the waxes on various materials and you'll get a very hard protective long lasting surface (and some color if you wish). As always,,,test test test on on sample piece of wood. Regis

I have put off building one of those light boxes BUT, I think that you have just struck a nerve with me. I'm in "far-south Alabama" the Florida panhandle. Here, they always say it is pollen season just a different pollen for each month of the year. Regis

What a great review and outstanding resource. It will take me some time to digest all the info. I have been documenting a similar spreadsheet for violin bows with one additional column. I'm now measureing the bow deflection with 2 pound weight. I will try to determine if there is a precise relationship between method I am using and tip weight per 1mm movement. I'm having a little difficulty understanding the tap-vibration self test that you mention. Thank you, Regis

What is the standard balance point for a cello bow? I've been using 185mm ahead of frog (relaxed) for violin bows. I simply haven't worked on cello bows and have a nice one to cleanup and restore. thank you, Regis