Feedback Quote :"The violin is beautiful and has resonant sound just as stated.....AAAA+++"
Sounds good, BUT,,,,,,, the item (#3738214939)was a Pitch Pipe......
Quote Jacob: "I'm neither a "professional" in terms of training (or rather, lack of it) nor ability..."
From various help you've provided to me and others, you under-rate yourself. You also continue to grow (per your comment about learning from Michael on this forum).
I appreciate your input and sound explainations.
From someone less-experienced than you and growing...
Regis
I'm working on violin with FB projection to 23mm at bridge (baroque?). The FB is 269mm and neck length is 130mm (modern). It appears that if I simply reset the neck angle, to get the right projection, the nut will be too low (below the plane of top). I could fit a wedge in between FB and neck? Other choices? What is the correct way to fix this for modern setup?
Thank you,
Regis
I finally gave up. Nice folks to order from, good tool prices, but, very very erratic shipping. Pay for 2nd day of "in stock" item and may not ship for month or so. I do like to do business with 2-3 companies and reliability is important.
Regis
Popular subjects seem to be wood treatment and removing top/glue. Didn't know what subject to use because some varnish removal is also evident.
Hurricane Ivan has given a local luthier some new insight. This violin was safe in it's case, in the owner's home BUT, under sea water for about a week.
Top view
Back view
Fortunately, this was a Romainian trade/student instrument.
Now, how long was that Strad sunken in the ship?
Regis
Perhaps, each time it goes through an e-bay (buy/sell) cycle, you could ask the seller "why?" When it get's under $100 I'll risk it for discussion purposes.
The seller had purchased a ?"Carl Becker" in last month. Item #3751316560
ealier Becker sale
Did he find out it wasn't real and is trying to recoup some?? Don't know.
Regis
Quote chcurtis: "Weight high on the bridge seems to emphasize the lower overtones; low on the bridge the higher overtones."
Would you (or someone) expound on this a little for me. What/where is high and low?
Thanks,
Regis
East - West position experimenting is very time consuming and there is NO backing out. Once you've trimed sp to fit hight, you can trim a 'little' more going toward the treble side. But, matching post "fit" without too much tension is a one-way experiment. For each fraction of east/west you must go through an extensive north/south movement. Nothing reduces time except experience..... working on it.
Regis
If authenic, Giorgio Cornelli was maker in Venice. His production years were 1792-1799. There is a picture of real thing at Tarisio archives. Don't have any price data.
Regis
If you "Save to Target" as someone suggested, it will copy to a folder YOU specify on your local hard drive. Then you can listen. Otherwise, you are subject to interuptions/delays on the internet.
Worked better for me.
I enjoyed it all a great deal but, was not able to identify with any degree of certainty.
Regis
Skreechee,
It does not tell you how to "dis-assemble" nor how to repair a crack. From that standpoint, it doesn't help repair. On the other hand, it tells a lot about fitting everyting togather properly. I particularly like the bass bar "fitting". As far as dis-assembly, there is a lot of information on this board e.g. top or fingerboard removal.
Strobel's "Violin Maker's Notebook" has a good bit of helpfull repair information.
Regis
My copy arrived yesterday. Almost kept me up through the night! Great book,....can't beleive I waited this long to spend the hundred bucks and get "the right book". I sure spent much more than that in increments trying to find "the right book". Although, I have been very pleased with Strobel's Useful Measurements for Violin Makers as a general measurement reference manual.
Regis
Rich,
Be sure to make a wide enough opening so you can go over ribs to measure bottom plate. May not think it necessary if you only make a violin but, if you ever open one you'll want to be able to check it. experience!
Regis
Just a rubber/foam pad for 'some' resistance. I understood the goal to be more pressure in the middle of bass bar. That makes the ends of the bass bar fit the top without distorting the edge of upper and lower ends of the top plate. Have I missed the point of springing the middle of the bass bar as opposed to pulling the ends of the plate to the bass bar?
Regis
After recently seeing Michael post a picture of his absolutely beautiful bass bar clamping mechinism, I had to try something. I had been using various clamps but, that left me with a top that was no longer flat. Although this board is for the 1715's that I'm (slowly) making, it does support this repair, re-graduate. So here is my Poor man's bass bar clamp . What are others using? Do most people use a beautiful/specialized clamp like Michaels?
By-the-way, that is chalk not glue.
Regis
Hurricane Ivan has forced a hotel change. The seminar-workshop will now be at Ft Walton Beach. Finally received word earlier this week that the hotel on Pensacola Beach will not be ready by February.
I've coordinated the change with Michael Darnton and e-mailed everyone (that registered already) about the hotel change. For others (2 more openings), I've updated the registration info at see bottom of this web page The agenda will remain the same.
If you registered and did not receive the e-mail, please contact me.
Thank you,
Regis
I was unable to find any reference to an "F. R.".
Perhaps your luthier did an outstanding job with superior hair on a better than average stick. It is much better to judge your purchase by the quality of sound you achieve rather than just the name (unless you're strickly a collector).
Regis