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Everything posted by Woodland

  1. So were there actually bathroom policies at "The Firm"? I must confess I'm having a hard time separating fact from fantasy on that particular subject.
  2. So is the Crown stove fuel grain alcohol? Denatured? Neither? I guess there's one advantage to living in Illinois these days, and it's the ability to purchase 190 proof grain alcohol at the liquor stores, whether Everclear or the Polish variety.
  3. Wouldn't be the first Chinese Tonica knock-offs that I've seen, either. There were some installed on Chinese imports that I was selling almost 20 years ago. I usually opted for either Prelude or Helicore upgrades as the fake candy canes jumped way up in pitch with an increase in bow speed.
  4. The rib stock I cut out was from thicker wider pieces of the cello rib stock, so it wasn't in block form. I actually had some other violin rib stock that was in block form that I resawed into violin ribs that stayed straight. Go figure...
  5. I'm currently building a cornerless violin in sycamore, and that stuff can and does move a good bit. I purchased a sycamore cello set some years back and am using the remnants from the cello neck block and worked down the surplus cello rib stock into violin ribs. The straight rib stock didn't stay so straight when I started working it into narrower strips, they looked like pieces of curved model railroad track. After some doing I managed to get some straight pieces worked down to about 1.2mm thick. They bent quite well however one of the ribs flared outward following bending and lining, I'll have to rework that piece before I glue the back on. The wood set was supposedly dried in a vacuum kiln, 5 years dry and in my possession 2 years before I worked it. It seemed quite dry, I assumed it was just the nature of sycamore.
  6. I've sold a number of those Lupot 501 cellos, and they're quite nice sounding for the price. The last used one I had in the shop didn't sound as nice as the newer one's that we've sold, but the finish was quite nice on the older ones, especially compared to the newer models. As long as there was nothing seriously wrong with the instrument you likely did well at that price.
  7. This is a new, unused Corene synthetic 4/4 violin fingerboard. This fingerboard is already dimensioned and surfaced and ready to be installed. There is one small, fillable void at the upper end, otherwise it's ready to go. Includes bone glue for installation. Price is $60 including shipping. Please PM me if interested.
  8. Here's a sample of my shop brand I had made by Illinois Engraving. I originally had it made to market my own student bows and stamp my bridges, but now I use it for branding my wooden-handled tools, home made jigs and the instruments I build. Mine has a 2mm height, which I felt a tad large for bridges and bows, but fine for what I use it for these days. If you want yours for bridges and bows I'd recommend the 1.5mm height.
  9. Last fall I got a set of Oticon Ruby 2 hearing aids. I have a minor high frequency loss with tinnitus, largely from playing in a live band setting for a bit too long. They're more for speech than music, as when I play an instrument such as a violin/cello I don't get a true sense of the sound. It's like having a stereo chorus effect as I'm getting the ambient sounds of the instrument plus the amplified sound. I actually have to remove them when testing an instrument. The tinnitus is reduced to a minimum when I have my Oticons in, so they help with that, but they're a minor nuisance when playing. The biggest pain is hanging hearing aids, glasses and a Covid mask on my ears all at the same time, something is bound to fall off and usually does.
  10. https://illinoisengraving.com/bridge-stamps-and-bow-stamps/
  11. Arthur Scarbrow used the mark "0" to identity his bows. I believe the "H & S" marking indicates a lesser grade of bow, but others here who have handled more Hill bows than I have may be able to shed some additional light on the subject.
  12. I second Michael's advice as far as steaming vs. replacing, it's totally worth straightening. I'm guessing that's an Eastman Model 80 cello (looks like one), they're usually fitted with Despiau D-grade bridges at Eastman which are ok rental-grade bridges, but weaker wood. Combining that with rough handling by students we see that problem in our shop weekly. If you have a string shop in your neighborhood I'd recommend letting them handle it. It will be more economical than having someone cut a new one when it really isn't necessary.
  13. Considering it's likely going to need to be regraduated, the price is already a bit too high.
  14. Peace on Earth and Happy Holidays to all! Santa brought me the ultimate luthier's stocking stuffer...
  15. From what I can see, the pearl doesn't look too bad. Things could use a mild cleaning/spiffing up anyways and I've used a couple different mild compounds for such work on silver and pearl alike. One of which is called Pre-Lim, which is made by the Renaissance Wax makers. It's a soft paste that contains fine chalk powder and white spirit if I'm not mistaken. It wouldn't hurt at all to take it to your favorite bow tech or maker and see what they suggest.
  16. The "modeling clay" from the craft outlets works just fine. I use the black-colored compound that doesn't harden.
  17. I actually bought some Tru-Oil a few years back to experiment with, haven't used it yet. I made some mastic varnish 10 years ago that I'm just getting around to color-testing. The pure varnish has a nice amber color to it, dries fine. I'm tinting it with the Stew-Mac liquid color, I think it's just relabeled Trans Tint. I take it you colored the Tru-Oil somehow?
  18. The bow is silver mounted and warrants additional photos/scrutiny.
  19. Just curious, did you use a rub joint or did you clamp it when joining the pieces? My rub joints seem pretty good overall lately but a couple have been less than tight at the ends. I'm not sure if that's because they were rub joints or because my joinery was less than satisfactory.
  20. You may wish to take it in for a rehair and a new thumb grip if you wish to put it up for sale. Looks like a good bow, a spiffing up should help to sell it.
  21. That's my default plan, it never hurts to try and save a few bucks here and there.
  22. I'm currently searching out viola plans and haven't settled on a size yet. Apparently the Strobel book has plans for a 15 5/8" viola based on a da Salo model. I found a used copy online of Harry Wake's book (hasn't arrived yet), which apparently has two sets of plans, but if I'm not mistaken both plans are for 16 3/4" violas including a Tertis model. If someone has a gently-used copy of the Strobel viola book, please PM me. Otherwise I'd be open to other viola plans (16" and under).
  23. This one has a silver adjuster with whalebone: https://reverb.com/item/44486142-w-e-hill-and-sons-violin-bow-by-arthur-barnes
  24. John Tepper of Tepper Tonewoods in Oregon. He has Englemann spruce as well. https://www.teppertonewood.com/
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