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Everything posted by Woodland

  1. John Tepper of Tepper Tonewoods in Oregon. He has Englemann spruce as well. https://www.teppertonewood.com/
  2. The original cases by B & F I believe were made by Weber, but that was back in the 80's. They were were fitted with a blue cover. I think years later they were made by another manufacturer. I'm not sure if Weber is even making cases anymore. I'm sure there's someone who could custom make a cover for you, but it may cost more than the original case.
  3. Update: I just returned from a trip to Manistee, and I had an opportunity to visit the Manistee County Historical Museum. One of the staff was kind enough to remove the Paulsen violin from storage and assist me any way he could. The violin in their collection is labeled as a Peter Christian Paulsen Master Model, apparently not one of the more common grade production models. It appeared to be of decent workmanship, and I've attached photos below (forgive the iPhone pictures taken in poor lighting). The maples didn't strike me as American red maple, and I'm guessing the local timber had little or nothing to do with Manistee being chosen as the location of the factory. I mentioned to the staff member I was curious as to why Manistee was chosen, he said it was likely because Manistee was heavily promoting itself as a manufacturing town at the time. Nice little historical museum, by the way. Much of Manistee's history is tied to Great Lakes manufacturing and shipping (freighters). The staff member is also going to be forwarding additional scanned paperwork tied to the factory in the future, I'll be sure and pass along what I find out.
  4. My home-made bow grip winder. This is based off Josh Henry's design, which one can find on YouTube. Mine is made from an old hand-drill and 1/2" Baltic birch plywood. Even with heavy sanding, Baltic birch doesn't stain or take shellac very well (as one can see), these days I use a polish made from melted beeswax, linseed oil and turpentine.
  5. Yes. I had that issue once some years back when I was working with Citra-Solv, which contains detergent in addition to limonene. I recall it being a Markneukirchen fiddle, possibly a Meinel. It was tacky the first day and fine when left overnight. I gave up the Citra-Solv years ago as it needs to be followed up with water to remove the residue. I now use food-grade d-limonene as it leaves very little residue, but I use it mostly on fingerboards which I follow up with 0000 steel wool. I seldom use limonene on varnish these days, unless it's a horribly filthy rental grade instrument whose finish I'm well-acquainted with, i.e. Eastman 80 or 100, which can stand up to a number of cleaners that I wouldn't use to clean a fine instrument. I tend to gravitate towards Vulpex detergent for better instruments these days. What I like about it is that I can control the strength somewhat by how much water I dilute it with.
  6. I've used two baby bottle warmers over the years, and they are cheap, but neither one of them lasted a year. Then again I don't think they're made to last.
  7. A number of things will certainly work, provided they can keep the water temp a consistent 150 degrees.
  8. If you happen to have one of the Chicago-made classic Hold-Heet automatic glue pots, you may want to take care of it and hang onto it. Everyone I've seen that normally sells them online/in-store appears to be sold out and I can't find a working web page for Emco Electric. Google says "Temporarily closed", so I'm not sure what the story is. I'm currently coasting on my first rebuild (10+ years and going strong) and my home shop glue pot is strictly for making instruments and doesn't see the daily use it once did. I have access to two for daily repair use at the repair shop so I'm hoping I'm good for a while. Not sure what's involved in a rebuild but even simple electronics aren't my forte.
  9. John, thanks for all the great service over the years, you will be missed! Jay Damm
  10. This is why I don't like giving out loaner bows. There's a reason why a case has two bow holders!
  11. I knew John was a builder, not sure what instruments he makes.
  12. Right, I recall when tracy took over the fretted instrument woods, it also appears that he's taken over the orchestral aspect of the tonewood business judging from John's website.
  13. I just saw yesterday that Bruce at Orcas Island Tonewoods is retiring and no longer accepting new orders. I also noticed last week at the Old World Tonewood web site it's now listed as King, NC based with the email contact listed as tracy@..... I sent emails to both John Preston and Tracy and haven't heard back from either yet. It appears that Old World has changed hands but not sure what the story is.
  14. Our shop has an Arthur Barnes W.E. Hill & Sons bow. Barnes reportedly worked at the Hill shop from 1919 to 1939. The stick is stamped "2E8" under the frog, whereas the frog is stamped with an "E". From what I understand the E was to match the stick to the frog, but I'm not clear if the numbers denote the year of manufacture.
  15. Apparently they were sold by firms (catalog houses?) in Chicago. I read somewhere that the manufacturing equipment was made in Wheaton (west of Chicago), as it was something of a mechanized process. An example from the factory is on display at a museum in Manistee, I'll have to check it out when I'm up there this summer. My wife and I are looking to settle there over time.
  16. While the Jackson Guldan company is recognized as perhaps one of the few (if not the only) American violin "factory", the American Violin Manufacturing Company appears to have fallen into relative obscurity. While the company president, Peter Christian Paulsen, had worked as a violin maker in Chicago for a number of firms, he became president of the company in 1919 and died in 1920. The company was based in Wheaton, IL and established the factory in the Lake Michigan port city of Manistee. The output was reported to be 40 instruments per week, and apparently only lasted 4 years due to sluggish sales. I'm not sure what kind of output constitutes a violin factory vs. a workshop, but 40 violins a week would be substantial in my book. What I'm curious to know as to where the wood was being obtained from. The lower Michigan north woods was definitely timber country, and red maple would be readily available in the area, I'm not sure if there would be any suitable spruce from the Great Lakes region, perhaps white spruce? I suppose the spruce could have come from anywhere, but given Manistee being a timber producing region, I would think that may have been a deciding factor in choosing it's location, or perhaps the ability to ship the instruments to Chicago for sale by rail or ship. https://www.manisteenews.com/local-history/article/The-American-Violin-Manufacturing-Company-14243275.php
  17. That's what I started with when I broke the xylene habit. Citra solve has other agents in it that need to be rinsed/removed with water. I switched to pure limonene about 3 years ago and stuck with it. It evaporates leaving virtually no residue. https://www.ebay.com/itm/D-Limonene-100-Food-Grade-Citrus-Solvent-4oz-Dlimonene-Orange-Oil-Free-Ship/131548129653?epid=1641147265&hash=item1ea0e12975:g:v7AAAOSwADNXPQso
  18. Marking tape residue can etch/discolor the fingerboard. if the fingerboard/neck is totally clean, try lightly rubbing the surfaces with 0000 steel wool, don't be surprised if they still remain, though. The tape apparently can lift color from the fingerboard and neck, but resurfacing and rubbing out can tone it down. For the record my favorite fingerboard cleaner is straight limonene (orange peel extract), non-toxic and very effective. I follow it up with the steel wool. Keep it on the fingerboard and off the varnish, as I can't promise it wouldn't damage your varnish. A few drops on a cloth or paper towel should suffice.
  19. Not really sure, but I've wondered that myself. Both species are native to Michigan, and black spruce can be found in boggy areas. I don't know if that would produce suitable wood if it was grown in that type of environment.
  20. I got myself a cheap mini vaporizer (a $10 eBay purchase) that I thought would fit in the UV light box, and it turned out to be just that. I've resorted to leaving a pan of water with a computer fan blowing on it inside the box. After a three-week marathon varnishing session my neck angle has risen over a mm. It is what it is, at least for now. I'm guessing once I leave it strung up and the humidity returns it will eventually creep back down. I built an extra .5mm or so of elevation in the neck to account for settling, looks like that may have been unnecessary, time and experience will tell.
  21. There's different gram strengths and different clarities available of the gram strengths. In other words, you can have different grades of the same gram strength that can have different appearances. Not sure if the clarity affects the performance, supposedly not. I choose the gram strength based on what particular job I'm doing. Others just use 192 gram strength and control the strength by how thick they make it.
  22. The problem with Glasser fiberglass bows is that the head and shaft are two separate pieces held together by a rod. The two sections can separate over time or if the head is exposed to excessive tension. As long as you don't crank the tension on the screw to the point where the bow looks like a hunting bow and put it away that way, you should be okay until the humidity returns.
  23. There's been information circulating for years that there is only one manufacturer of hide glue in the US, Milligan and Higgins, irregardless of who's name is on the label. Not sure how accurate that is. Part of my vintage varnish resin collection includes a jar of gelatin from a luthier's estate labeled Swift Premium Chicago Gelatin - Violin Glue. I think it's from the 70's. I'll have to break it out and take a closer look. I'll try and post a photo tonight. Looks different than hide glue granules.
  24. Don't know. There was a "luthier" of sorts who worked in the Chicago area years ago by the name of Stan who would perform bizarre work, including ill-fitting hollow sound posts made of cocobolo. The guy was legendary.
  25. I have an accurate digital hygrometer that I keep in the shop. I keep a 12 x 12 glass baking dish full of water in the box to help with humidity. Even so, the relative humidity at 82 degrees is in the 20th percentile, not good enough. Perhaps if I install the second fan to flow across the water dish that will help things.
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