Woodland

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About Woodland

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    Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/12/1967

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    Male
  • Location
    Great Lakes, USA

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  1. That's what I started with when I broke the xylene habit. Citra solve has other agents in it that need to be rinsed/removed with water. I switched to pure limonene about 3 years ago and stuck with it. It evaporates leaving virtually no residue. https://www.ebay.com/itm/D-Limonene-100-Food-Grade-Citrus-Solvent-4oz-Dlimonene-Orange-Oil-Free-Ship/131548129653?epid=1641147265&hash=item1ea0e12975:g:v7AAAOSwADNXPQso
  2. Marking tape residue can etch/discolor the fingerboard. if the fingerboard/neck is totally clean, try lightly rubbing the surfaces with 0000 steel wool, don't be surprised if they still remain, though. The tape apparently can lift color from the fingerboard and neck, but resurfacing and rubbing out can tone it down. For the record my favorite fingerboard cleaner is straight limonene (orange peel extract), non-toxic and very effective. I follow it up with the steel wool. Keep it on the fingerboard and off the varnish, as I can't promise it wouldn't damage your varnish. A few drops on a clo
  3. Not really sure, but I've wondered that myself. Both species are native to Michigan, and black spruce can be found in boggy areas. I don't know if that would produce suitable wood if it was grown in that type of environment.
  4. I got myself a cheap mini vaporizer (a $10 eBay purchase) that I thought would fit in the UV light box, and it turned out to be just that. I've resorted to leaving a pan of water with a computer fan blowing on it inside the box. After a three-week marathon varnishing session my neck angle has risen over a mm. It is what it is, at least for now. I'm guessing once I leave it strung up and the humidity returns it will eventually creep back down. I built an extra .5mm or so of elevation in the neck to account for settling, looks like that may have been unnecessary, time and experience will tell.
  5. There's different gram strengths and different clarities available of the gram strengths. In other words, you can have different grades of the same gram strength that can have different appearances. Not sure if the clarity affects the performance, supposedly not. I choose the gram strength based on what particular job I'm doing. Others just use 192 gram strength and control the strength by how thick they make it.
  6. The problem with Glasser fiberglass bows is that the head and shaft are two separate pieces held together by a rod. The two sections can separate over time or if the head is exposed to excessive tension. As long as you don't crank the tension on the screw to the point where the bow looks like a hunting bow and put it away that way, you should be okay until the humidity returns.
  7. There's been information circulating for years that there is only one manufacturer of hide glue in the US, Milligan and Higgins, irregardless of who's name is on the label. Not sure how accurate that is. Part of my vintage varnish resin collection includes a jar of gelatin from a luthier's estate labeled Swift Premium Chicago Gelatin - Violin Glue. I think it's from the 70's. I'll have to break it out and take a closer look. I'll try and post a photo tonight. Looks different than hide glue granules.
  8. Don't know. There was a "luthier" of sorts who worked in the Chicago area years ago by the name of Stan who would perform bizarre work, including ill-fitting hollow sound posts made of cocobolo. The guy was legendary.
  9. I have an accurate digital hygrometer that I keep in the shop. I keep a 12 x 12 glass baking dish full of water in the box to help with humidity. Even so, the relative humidity at 82 degrees is in the 20th percentile, not good enough. Perhaps if I install the second fan to flow across the water dish that will help things.
  10. Update: The first coat took the better part of a week to dry in the UV lightbox, but for the first coat that's pretty normal. No chemical dryer necessary. My generic black light bulbs are adequate. Did the second coat last night and it's drying more quickly. Currently working on getting the lightbox temperature down into the 70's, as it's a bit warm in there. I have one computer fan working with another on the way, current temp is in the 80's. That Holtier varnish is interesting stuff. It's almost like applying a glaze rather than a varnish. Getting the color to even out takes practice to
  11. That looks like the variety of bulb that was included with the box when I acquired it. I wasn't able to find them when I needed replacements, so I went with the current black light bulbs.
  12. It's a home made (aren't they all?) box I inherited from a local luthier's estate. It's 18 x 24 x 36, lined with aluminum foil. It has four 24", 20W fluorescent black light bulbs, plus two CFL black light bulbs mounted close to the floor of the box. I also installed a rotisserie motor to rotate the instrument. The bulbs I'm guessing are less than ideal for varnish curing, but they did work for Fulton's turpene varnish just fine. I just got home and gave the violin a check, and it does appear to be coming along, as some spots seem fairly dry. I think it's also important to remember that it's ju
  13. Perhaps my light cabinet is on the weak side. I just have basic flourescent black light bulbs, which worked fine for turpene varnish, but this is taking longer. I'll give it to the weekend before I decide to use a drier with the next coats. I did test strips a few months back, I don't recall exactly how long it took but I don't recall it being particularly sluggish.
  14. After laying down my first coats of Holtier varnish, it became obvious that one or two nights in the UV light box isn't going to cut it. I've heard repeated claims that it requires a drier. I'm assuming purchasing the Holtier Catalyst is the common sense route to go, even if a small bottle plus shipping is a bit pricey for what it is, but the cost isn't a big deal. I'm assuming one separates a small quantity of varnish from the bottle and a a drop or two of catalyst is added? The instructions don't mention a method of adding it.
  15. Maybe "nevermind" was a poor choice of words, as I appreciate people showing me their own versions of the cradle. I felt a little silly asking for input on making such a simple jig, but I also appreciate the input from multiple members to give me some ideas before I make my own.