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About Okawbow

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    Southern Illinois
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  1. I’ve had very good luck with a 12” Ryobi.
  2. My neighbor has a spruce back cello. The neck and sides are European plane or American sycamore. I cut a bridge and fitted pegs for it. Sounded ok for a student quality cello.
  3. Finish it as a small viola, and move on.
  4. Made my first violin from Osage Orange wood, back, sides and neck. Top was eastern red cedar. Fitting were persimmon. Sounded amazingly sweet, but different. However, the one piece slab cut back cracked. Made another with a two piece quarter sawn Osage back and European spruce top. Very powerful, but a little harsh. Didn’t crack, however.
  5. Does the Messiah have a replaced button/neck? Looks like it from the picture.
  6. The best propolis comes from an area with lots of spruce trees. Check with your local bee keepers or ask the online suppliers if they live near the mountains.
  7. My best ground so far, has been a propolis wash, brushed on, inside and out, with a thin coat of ruby shellack over that. I make the propolis wash by dissolving raw propolis into acetone. The yellow wash penetrates and preserves the wood, leaving a thin coat of resin on the surface, that needs to dry a couple days before the shellack is applied. I don’t think the tone is adversely affected, in fact the instruments I’ve done this way are my best sounding ones. I don’t have a picture before varnish, but here is a cello with the propolis ground and an oil varnish with madder lake. The gold colored ground shows through nicely.
  8. With all the variation we see in old instruments, I sincerely doubt that .02mm has any real effect on a violins sound or playability. Wood density has much more effect. I would also challenge anyone to repeatedly get the measurement with in .02mm on a flat wood surface every time with any flat jawed calipers. Based on 40 years as a machinist.
  9. How did the old masters ever get by without expensive dial calipers? Spring calipers in combo with a good ruler can actually be as accurate and even better for the job on violin measurements. They are great for duplicating thicknesses on wood. I rely more on touch and feel. I’m not using a c&c machine after all.
  10. Easy-peasy, just stretcha sheet of plastic kitchen wrap on the affected area before each session. Remove when done.
  11. I used it on my first violin 20 years ago, before I knew better. That violin sounds and plays very well, and is played daily, and exposed to all normal conditions. I’ve never had to repair anything on it, and it holds its tune. I hope I don’t ever need to remove the top.
  12. I've only made a few over a dozen violins. About half were with European wood, and half with Englemann spruce. My Englemann tops seem slightly louder under my ear. When others play the instruments, I think the Englemann sounds at least as good as the European spruce.
  13. Do you have a link?
  14. All this talk about wood density made me check out the Engelmann spruce I bought for a double bass top. After carefull measurement, it comes out .385 and has about 8-11 grains per inch. How does that sound for a bass?