Okawbow

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About Okawbow

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    www.bows.net
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern Illinois
  • Interests
    Almost everything

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  1. I have found that properly cleaned and clamped, wood to wood joints glued with EZ Bond thick cyranocrylic glue will not come apart without destroying the wood. I have used it to apply thousands of tip overlays on archery bows and never had a failure. I’ve only glued one violin bow head with it, but it has held for many years. You can get EZ Bond glue from Amazon or EBay. The thin works great on hairline cracks. It will wick to the bottom of any crack, then just clamp for a few minutes. They also sell an excellerator if you are in a hurry.
  2. X2 I brought home a bunch of split spruce from Washington state about 18 years ago. I re split all the quarters into violin billet pairs. Drilled holes in the outside corners and wired the book matched pairs together and hung them from the rafters of my garage. No cracking, splitting or warping. The wood was dry after 2 years, and made excellent tops. The few I have left are still perfect after hanging for the whole time.
  3. The first three letters are ALD and the last two look like stars, but it’s all really hard to see. The stamp was nice and straight, and all the parts and workmanship on the bow seems good quality. I’m happy with it, but don’t play well enough to make good use of it. I traded a violin neck reset and rib repair job for it, as I needed a bow for the cello I was making.
  4. Thanks, It does weight right at 74 grams. On closer look, it did have a stamp on the stick above the frog. I can’t make out a name, as the varnish has been scraped off or has flaked off because it was damaged when it was stamped. The name might be “ALDEN**”
  5. I think it’s just an optical illusion that the frog looks odd. It measures the same at the heel as it does at the ferrule. As for the grace fullness of the head; it was made in Germany after all. Function before style. Still wondering where it might have been made, in Germany, and by whom? It seems good quality and looks like silver mounts.
  6. Any idea of age, quality, value? What kind of wrap should it have? It is stamped, “Germany” on the stick. No other markings. The stick is straight and plays very well. Thanks
  7. I like the two masted schooners. Here is the one I built 7 years ago.
  8. I’m making a double bass in my spare time. What a chore it was to bend those ribs! I used a steel pipe with a gas torch aimed inside and adjusted for the right heat. Took lots of heat and water just to get them bending. Had to bend them. close and clamp to the form while still wet, then dry out the wood with a heat gun. Left them clamped a day or two before gluing. Used ash wood, which probably bends easier than maple.
  9. I was thinking more about a two piece mold that would compress the rib all at once. My recurve form uses a fire hose with the ends plugged and filled with air pressure after the two halves are bolted together. The pressure forces the wood strips flat against the lower half of the form, that has the exact shape needed. The hose might not be needed if a rubber pressure strip is used and a mechanical clamp system is used to bring the two halves smoothly together.
  10. Interesting. I make recurve archery bows, and use maple laminations that are over 1.5mm thick. I use a form to hold the parts and press them together until the glue dries. No problems with cracking. I would think a form could be made for ribs, that could be heated along with the rib wood in a small oven. The wood could then be clamped in the form and heated to about 90 degrees C for a few hours. Let cool in the form for 12 hours, and the ribs should hold the shape. No water needed.
  11. I’ve had very good luck with a 12” Ryobi.
  12. My neighbor has a spruce back cello. The neck and sides are European plane or American sycamore. I cut a bridge and fitted pegs for it. Sounded ok for a student quality cello.
  13. Finish it as a small viola, and move on.