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Everything posted by Mike_Danielson

  1. a) Use chin rest b) a + shoulder rest c) Have luthier give it a good, thick french polish d) Turtleneck shirt Mike D
  2. I think the lathe is the most flexible device for this work. Used mini-lathes are rare in my location--a few weeks ago, one was available in Yakima but the machine was no longer manufactured and parts unavailable--something to keep in mind. The cheapest Harbor Freight model sells for about $600, and machines like it are available from a number of suppliers. You will need a 4-jaw chuck which can be found at the littlemachineshop.com. The speed controller for the Harbor Freight model goes down to about 100 rpm which is pretty slow, and the ID of the spindle will permit a bow to enter. You can purchase drill bits with a sharp point which acts to help keep the drill centered. McMaster-Carr is one place to get them. For some of the bow operations, you need a mill. It would be nice to find a combined unit of lathe and mill. I think that would be a better idea than just the lathe. Harbor Freight used to make such a combined unit, but I no longer can find it. Mike D
  3. I think you will find that the elastic modulus for alpha-brass and the manganese bronze are in the same ballpark. The manganese bronze must have a useful property for casting, such as, being very fluid at the cast temperature; thus, you can get a high yield of perfect castings. Moreover, there are a lots of articles and videos showing how to make your own plane using brass plates that are cut and then soldered together. Mike D
  4. Another ideal is to wet the bridge, cover concave side with a wet cloth, and iron with an old pressing iron (on top of the cloth--creates lots of steam). Fast Mike D
  5. It appears that the OP has found a weakness to this high-end tool--the brass is not strong enough to resist deformation when dropped. All of us have had the heartbreak of dropping and damaging a tool. As mentioned by several, this is easily fixed by polishing on a granite flat--just a few minutes of work. I would start with 60 grit wet/dry paper and go from there. Just a reminder, the Stanley 102 is a bottom of the line cast-iron block plane which works very well. You can buy an infinite number of them on ebay for $10. Mike D
  6. A good, high quality string that has fast articulation is Helicore, and they do not cost that much. But they do not have the volume of the strings you are presently using or the Spirocores/Larsen that is the current standard. A heavier string with tungsten windings will be slower to get started, and that is the construction of Magnicores or the Spirocores. If Helicores' don't do it, you will have to look elsewhere Mike D
  7. Philip also uses this site to authenticate a lot of bows. Makes me wonder if he is in the bow business. Mike D
  8. Stamping the bridge is a form of advertising. I do not think there is anything wrong with this--it is your choice. Mike D
  9. This repair has been discussed before on Maestronet. The bow specialists will use a high speed dental drill set-up with carbide burr to cut the steel screw in half (in the mortise). That way, the piece with the brass eyelet can be removed. That leaves you with the rusted screw stuck in the lower end of the wood (I am assuming it is rusted into place). Maybe the screw will move so it can be pulled out. Otherwise, soak, in vinegar to loosen rust and then pull out the screw. I sense you want to do this yourself. So, get some carbide dental drill bits, insert into Dremel and see if you can cut the screw. regards Mike D
  10. Thank you for writing your book. It is the best treatise on this subject that I have ever found. regards Mike D
  11. Also, the attraction for Michelman varnish is to avoid the cooking. Varnish cooking is stinky and dangerous from fires (burning the house down and burns). It is also time to mention megilp, another varnish (medium) with a bad history, but lots of users that love it Keep it simple. Reread Mrs Merrifield's treatise on painting. Hargrave has captured the essence of it. Mike D
  12. http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi= Here is some data that shows bamboo is pretty strong and has a fairly low density. Bamboo has a reputation of making very fine fly rods. So, it is very flexible, strong, and resistant to fracture. Bamboo bows are an interesting idea. Mike D
  13. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-CRI_LED_lighting This is a Wiki article on CRI (color rendering index) and LED lights. LED lights do not do a good job of reproducing sunlight. Manufacturers seem to avoid mentioning the CRI of their lamps. The Wiki article says that Philips was the first to get a CRI of 80 which is not terribly good. 95 is a much better number, but I have not seen such a value with the LED bulbs. Perhaps Philips bulbs are the best you can do at this time--any ideas out there? The only safe way of color matching is to use real sunlight. Mike D
  14. Get lamps that have at least 5000K color temperature--5500K would be even better if you want something the resembles sunlight in the shop. And at least 60 watt equivalent but 100 watt might be better--it is possible for the 100 watt lights to be too bright for close work. Get the long arm fixtures from McMaster-Carr like I recommend in an earlier part of this post--you will eventually be sorry if you get the cheap, short ones. Mike D
  15. I would give up on this one. The OP has given us almost no information. We know it is a Shadow transducer but not the model--some have a preamp and some do not. Shadows have different transducer mountings. No info on the make of cello. No pictures of the setup. Mike D
  16. I do not think piezo-electric transducers have a significant frequency dependence to the response--so, it cannot be that. But this seems like a transducer problem: Take a look at the placement of the transducer--make sure it is located per the manufacturer's instructions (and that it is the correct transducer for this application). If this is a cheap electric cello, the problem may be a badly designed transducer. Sorry, my crystal ball is still being worked on. Mike D
  17. I enjoy watching Jacob poke at the members of MN. And it always get a response which is probably gratifying. Reminds me (a little) of Pres Trump and the U.S. press. Trump is always playing with them, and the pundits always fall for it on talk TV. Mike D
  18. Behlen makes a series of B370 'touch-up powders' which are claimed to be soluble in oil-based and shellac-based mediums. There are some nice, practical browns in the collection as well as burnt umber and burnt sienna. I have not tried them; so, I am just passing this on. They are not very expensive Mike D
  19. I have looked the paper over a couple of times. It is a useful review of scientific and anecdotal work on bridge tuning. I am convinced that bridge tuning has an effect on an instruments sound. What is missing is the conclusion. How do you adjust a bridge to solve or improve instrumental problems? I do not see any mention of "The Little Red Books" from the Chimney's Workshop which have some guidelines for bridge tuning. Mike D
  20. There is no question that Professor Hesse' device works, and they are still available. The unit is glued into place on the inside of the instrument. The problem with it is two fold: (1) the location of the wolf resonance can change with time, season, humidity, but the resonator is fixed in one place, and (2) it can dampened the sound too much. I think it is safe to say that you always lose something in the cello response when any of the wolf eliminators is used. The Krentz is the latest of these devices, but my research indicates that any collection of weights (multiple magnets) that weighs 35 grams will work as well as the Krentz--the air resonator in the device does not do anything. In most cases, the simplest is the best--namely, a weight placed on the C or G string afterlength. Mike D
  21. This is not a sound post issue. Put the brass thingy on the G-string afterlength, move it close to the bridge (experiment), and get the wolf on the G-string under control. It is likely that the D-string wolf will disappear. Mike D
  22. I am impressed by the repair, particularly by the way the inner piece of new wood locks into the original bow-tip. Very intelligent repair. Mike D
  23. I assume that the OP does not have the piece that is broken out because the easiest repair would be to glue it back into place. I would square the break and make a square plug to fit. This can be done by hand using the old fashioned chalk technique though a mill would make the work faster and more accurate. I would use G-2 epoxy for this over CA glue or hide glue (with formaldehyde), and then remove the excess wood after drying. I would give it a few days of sunlight to darken the wood, and then start the coloring process to make it invisible. I did not think hide glue would work with an oily wood, and that the treatment with formaldehyde or glutaraldehyde would solve the problem of an oily wood. This is new to me. I did a literature search but did not find references dealing with glue strength, oily wood, and the aldehyde treatment. Mike D
  24. I was about to solve this problem for the OP when the batteries went dead in my crystal ball. In reality, we cannot solve this problem over the internet--you have to take it to someone who has the background because there are multiple causes for this.. The easiest and most practical fix is to find another violin. My experience is that reworked instruments never sound as good as one that was built correctly, the first time--that is the problem with taking instruments you purchased in the white and reworking them Mike D
  25. Do not believe that you can sharpen using this wheel without much heat. The boron nitride is a very thin coating on the wheel surface, and it will soon load up with ground particles from your tool. Now it is tool steel grinding on your tool. Heat will result. How do you clean this wheel so that there is a fresh grinding surface? This is easy to do with a traditional ceramic wheel either by fast wear or by the ability to renew the surface with a diamond shaper. HSS is a special tools steel that can take higher temperatures than traditional carbon steel. It was developed for lathe cutting tools; not wood cutting tools. These grinder wheels were developed for HSS. This sounds like another great idea that falls flat on it face. Mike D