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About Mike_Danielson

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  • Birthday 10/22/1942

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    Materials scientist--PhD

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  1. a) Use chin rest b) a + shoulder rest c) Have luthier give it a good, thick french polish d) Turtleneck shirt Mike D
  2. I think the lathe is the most flexible device for this work. Used mini-lathes are rare in my location--a few weeks ago, one was available in Yakima but the machine was no longer manufactured and parts unavailable--something to keep in mind. The cheapest Harbor Freight model sells for about $600, and machines like it are available from a number of suppliers. You will need a 4-jaw chuck which can be found at the littlemachineshop.com. The speed controller for the Harbor Freight model goes down to about 100 rpm which is pretty slow, and the ID of the spindle will permit a bow to enter. You can purchase drill bits with a sharp point which acts to help keep the drill centered. McMaster-Carr is one place to get them. For some of the bow operations, you need a mill. It would be nice to find a combined unit of lathe and mill. I think that would be a better idea than just the lathe. Harbor Freight used to make such a combined unit, but I no longer can find it. Mike D
  3. I think you will find that the elastic modulus for alpha-brass and the manganese bronze are in the same ballpark. The manganese bronze must have a useful property for casting, such as, being very fluid at the cast temperature; thus, you can get a high yield of perfect castings. Moreover, there are a lots of articles and videos showing how to make your own plane using brass plates that are cut and then soldered together. Mike D
  4. Another ideal is to wet the bridge, cover concave side with a wet cloth, and iron with an old pressing iron (on top of the cloth--creates lots of steam). Fast Mike D
  5. It appears that the OP has found a weakness to this high-end tool--the brass is not strong enough to resist deformation when dropped. All of us have had the heartbreak of dropping and damaging a tool. As mentioned by several, this is easily fixed by polishing on a granite flat--just a few minutes of work. I would start with 60 grit wet/dry paper and go from there. Just a reminder, the Stanley 102 is a bottom of the line cast-iron block plane which works very well. You can buy an infinite number of them on ebay for $10. Mike D
  6. A good, high quality string that has fast articulation is Helicore, and they do not cost that much. But they do not have the volume of the strings you are presently using or the Spirocores/Larsen that is the current standard. A heavier string with tungsten windings will be slower to get started, and that is the construction of Magnicores or the Spirocores. If Helicores' don't do it, you will have to look elsewhere Mike D
  7. Philip also uses this site to authenticate a lot of bows. Makes me wonder if he is in the bow business. Mike D
  8. Stamping the bridge is a form of advertising. I do not think there is anything wrong with this--it is your choice. Mike D
  9. This repair has been discussed before on Maestronet. The bow specialists will use a high speed dental drill set-up with carbide burr to cut the steel screw in half (in the mortise). That way, the piece with the brass eyelet can be removed. That leaves you with the rusted screw stuck in the lower end of the wood (I am assuming it is rusted into place). Maybe the screw will move so it can be pulled out. Otherwise, soak, in vinegar to loosen rust and then pull out the screw. I sense you want to do this yourself. So, get some carbide dental drill bits, insert into Dremel and see if you can cut the screw. regards Mike D
  10. Thank you for writing your book. It is the best treatise on this subject that I have ever found. regards Mike D
  11. Also, the attraction for Michelman varnish is to avoid the cooking. Varnish cooking is stinky and dangerous from fires (burning the house down and burns). It is also time to mention megilp, another varnish (medium) with a bad history, but lots of users that love it Keep it simple. Reread Mrs Merrifield's treatise on painting. Hargrave has captured the essence of it. Mike D
  12. http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi= Here is some data that shows bamboo is pretty strong and has a fairly low density. Bamboo has a reputation of making very fine fly rods. So, it is very flexible, strong, and resistant to fracture. Bamboo bows are an interesting idea. Mike D
  13. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-CRI_LED_lighting This is a Wiki article on CRI (color rendering index) and LED lights. LED lights do not do a good job of reproducing sunlight. Manufacturers seem to avoid mentioning the CRI of their lamps. The Wiki article says that Philips was the first to get a CRI of 80 which is not terribly good. 95 is a much better number, but I have not seen such a value with the LED bulbs. Perhaps Philips bulbs are the best you can do at this time--any ideas out there? The only safe way of color matching is to use real sunlight. Mike D
  14. Get lamps that have at least 5000K color temperature--5500K would be even better if you want something the resembles sunlight in the shop. And at least 60 watt equivalent but 100 watt might be better--it is possible for the 100 watt lights to be too bright for close work. Get the long arm fixtures from McMaster-Carr like I recommend in an earlier part of this post--you will eventually be sorry if you get the cheap, short ones. Mike D
  15. I would give up on this one. The OP has given us almost no information. We know it is a Shadow transducer but not the model--some have a preamp and some do not. Shadows have different transducer mountings. No info on the make of cello. No pictures of the setup. Mike D