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About Mike_Danielson

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  • Birthday 10/22/1942

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    Materials scientist--PhD

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  1. Question for purfling makers

    My suggestion: try it for yourself. This is such a simple way to make purfling that you will not invest much time in trying it. The last batch involved Titebond glue to glue the 3 pieces together because it is more thermoplastic than hide glue. It stayed wet for hours in the press. No evidence of bleeding black. This is a severe test for bleeding. Sticking the purfling into water until it comes apart shows no sign of bleeding. Is this enough? Any time someone suggests something new, there is this opposition--well, figure it out for yourself--do some experiments. And while you are at it, think about Hargrave's process: It involves KOH and ferrous sulfate and most of you are scared of chemicals. And then there is the problem of getting logwood--going to find that at the local lumber yard? If you build instruments, you will notice that there is not a lot of variation in purfling sizes that are stocked by the vendors. With an easy process to make a good black, you have much more flexibility in making purfling. Mike D
  2. Question for purfling makers

    I use Speedball black India Ink. Two coats per side. Permanent. Does not bleed into the white after dry. You have to admit this is a lot easier than Hargrave's method. Mike D
  3. White glue drop on paper label- removal

    I vote for 1944. This instrument was built without an internal bridge patch which is supposed to prevent those cracks under and at the ends of the outside bridge. This instrument has had a hard life--is it a flaminco guitar? Will you be able to reuse the back purfling or will that have to be replaced? Most of the repair work is just terrible. I think repair is possible but there is a lot of work in removing all the old patches. May have to use temporary internal wood blocks and special clamps (tower clamps?) to close the cracks--lots of work ahead. Putting a new internal bridge patch between the fan braces might be all the reinforcement needed for the old wood removal (compensation for someones sanding). Mike D
  4. Indiana University violin shop - future uncertain

    I am trying to understand this course of study which Jackson has brought to our attention. Here is a PDF description of the course: http://music.indiana.edu/degrees/undergraduate/files/requirements/StringTech2011.pdf It appears to be a two year course that will result in an Associate of Science degree, String Instrument Technology. 24 credit hours are in the area of string repair. There are also some general education courses which add up to a total ofabout 60 credit hours. I do not see any course focused specifically on instrument building, but it is probably tucked inside a repair course. Germany appears to still have a Guild system in the luthery business. What Jacob Saunders has accomplished is a big deal. Mike D
  5. What's the Name of Your Violin?

    I named my most recent cello, Lady Julia. This cello is a copy of the King Amati. Lady Julia is named after Julia Bulette of Virginia City, Nevada. She was a famous prostitute in the late 1800s. You can look her up on Wikipedia. A much loved character. The cello is loud and warm voiced. No matter how hard you play it, it always delivers. The sound does not degrade with power. A fast, easy response with good projection. Mike D
  6. violin knife steel PM-X

    This steel must be "as hard as the hubs of hell." How do you sharpen it? Will water stones work or does it take a harder abrasive? Mike D
  7. Christian Bayon's Bass Bar In the Feb. 18 Strad

    Shades of Peter Zaret--remember his bass bars? Here are some pictures of them: https://www.google.com/search?q=zaret+bassbar&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivlPSlsIPZAhUFwGMKHUC3Ch4QsAQIaA&biw=1301&bih=653#imgrc=OrKb8JrxIFga6M: Maybe the bass bar is not too important. Mike D
  8. Input needed colophony + nitrocellulose?

    I will note that the weapon pictures include parts that were inside the receiver, and it looks like they have a similar coloration. Thus. dipping is still a possible method for the wood parts. It has to be simple because of the high manufacturing volume. Let me suggest another method to get the color--dilute nitric acid. And then a coating on top of that. It is not clear to me that the color is in the coating (varnish?)--it could be in the wood from a nitric acid dip with a top coat that has little color. Mike D.
  9. Input needed colophony + nitrocellulose?

    Nitrocellulose is extremely flammable, which is more accurate than calling it explosive. Note that the early motion picture film was on nitrocellulose film, and projection room accidents were extremely dangerous because the source of intense light was a very hot carbon arc. I suspect the stocks and forearms were dipped in a tank of the coating. I have no idea if you can cook nitrocellulose, rosin, and linseed oil (the plasticizer?) and get away with it. But that color is not that different from violin varnish. Mike D
  10. Recommendations for replacement frog

    I cannot figure out what quality level this bow might be from the description. $1500-200 seems very high for a hand-made frog. Since this is a new frog to an old bow, there will be a future problem with recapturing your cost since the bow will be considered in the collector market as a composite. Perhaps you should think of it it terms of being a "players bow." Howard Core is selling silver-mounted ebony violin frogs with Paris eye for as low as $200, list. With any modification like this, the pro should do it to maintain such things as weight and balance point. Mike D
  11. Thinning varnish

    You are making this too hard. Just add turpentine to the varnish and give it some time to dissolve--maybe 12 hours. Stir, check the viscosity and see if you need to add more. If the varnish is healthy, there is no need to reheat to incorporate the solvent. Check for lumps; perhaps filter. Do not add more linseed oil unless you want to change the resin/oil ratio, which I think would be a mistake unless you recook it. Do not rush this incorporation of the solvent--give it some time. There is a big difference (chemical composition) between mineral spirits and turpentine. Use turpentine. I do not see how heating on a water bath can have much on an effect on the varnish because the temperature is so low. The dangers associated are very small if you do it outside and use an electric source for heat. Let's be reasonable and low intensity about this. You can incorporate the solvent, faster, if you heat the varnish, but if you have any worries, do what I said above. Mike D
  12. Tax proposals

    It is way premature to try and outguess our congressional leaders on the new tax laws. So, do not panic yet; there is plenty of time for that later, if they really do something. My surmise is that nothing will get done this calendar year, and maybe for the entire presidency. I do like the idea of a Schedule F. I edited this to add a Mark Twain quotation: "There is no distinctly American criminal class--except Congress." Mike D
  13. Cracks in Bending Ribs

    The only think I would add is to soak the wood in water for a longer time. That is, do a soak if you are presently doing a quick, surface wet to the wood before going to the bending iron. Say 20 minute soak. Sometimes a longer soak helps with difficult wood. Mike D
  14. Beady eyes... extreme version of fisheye

    Let's think the unthinkable--the mystery solvent is contaminated with something, maybe silicone. If this happens again, use a coat of shellac to restore bite. This is my secret, but I am going to reveal it to all. I never could keep a secret. Mike D
  15. Downforce Experiment

    Just a quick reminder--you can calculate the downward force very easily knowing the string tension and the string angle relative to the bridge. It is a cosine function. Is the break angle important, the OP says it is not very important, and he ran a test rather than doing the hand waving. Mike D