Mike_Danielson

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About Mike_Danielson

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    Enthusiast
  • Birthday 10/22/1942

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    Male
  • Location
    Richland
  • Interests
    Materials scientist--PhD

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  1. I consider Edi's ideal as in the list of easy things to do. David's ideal of using CA glue is the next step up in complexity. I assume you soak the slide in acetone to release the CA glue joint. This might work for the OP. The next thing to do in complexity is to drill a hole in the mother of pearl and insert a tool (hammering it) to remove. Of course this requires a new slide, etc. Another ideal would be to use a dental drill and cut the slide along it's length. Any other ideas when desperate? Mike D
  2. In my experience, it is the bow that has never been rehaired that is most likely to have this problem. It is a cheap bow, usually from China which often comes from a school orchestra program that has been trouble for me. My response is to hand the bow back and suggest that a new one be purchased since that is less money than me replacing the frog. In other words, if it is a cheap bow, give up after doing the simple tricks to remove the slide. Mike D
  3. The Mars brown I have seen is opaque--something you want to avoid. I do not know how this vendor made it transparent when I looked on their website. It is a Russian oil pigment without a retail source around here (USA). To me, it is too deep (dark) a brown--you need more red. You would do better with a semi-transparent color of burnt sienna with a small amount of burnt umber (which may be semi-transparent or opaque at its worst). Do not add these pigments to the varnish--you loose transparency. Only fully transparent pigments can be safely added to the varnish and maintain the full transparency. Run tests. Mike D
  4. I would like to know more about the planes. Are they a casting or are they machined out of solid metal. What is the body material? If cast, have they been stress relieved? Why not a screw adjustment for the larger planes which is so much easier to use than a friction wedge? They do not come with a blade which is an inconvenience--are you going to eventually supply a blade? Are you making any pillar clamps? That would be useful, also. Thanks Mike D
  5. Here is another idea, and it helps to control the thin glue: https://www.mcmaster.com/5335k11 PTFE sleeving with a tiny internal diameter. Get a large bottle of glue, cut off end and then enlarge the hole by using a drill close to the OD of the PTFE tubing, and insert an inch or so of tubing. When it clogs, pull it out and insert new piece. Mike D
  6. I agree with Peter K-G that varnish making is like cooking. He likens it to gravy reduction, and I liken it to making Marinara sauce. Roger's recipe works--but you have to go to a higher temperature then he recommends--close to 300 C, and then you can get the necessary color in less than 1 hour. I like the color of Peter K-G varnish--it would work for me. I agree with what Jacob says about the cooking it until the police arrive. It has a bad odor. As far as the flame is concerned, I suspect the vapors of this hot varnish are very flammable; so, a nearby flame could cause it the burst into flame. You want to heat the varnish with an electric heater to minimize this problem. Stay covered up when near the hot varnish for your protection. As far as the sports car is concerned, I am trying to sell my Miata. I enjoyed it for 17 years, but it is time for a pickup truck. Mike D
  7. Here is a chart of all the "off the shelf" taps in english and metric sizes: http://www.custompartnet.com/tap-size-chart You might be able to find something that will "work." There are lathes with electronic speed control for the lead screw; thus, it is possible to make a tap with any pitch. Mike D
  8. Voirin bows probably predate any engineering standards for screw diameters and thread pitches. The bow owner needs to measure the screw diameter and the pitch as a starting point. There may be more to it though; such as, depth of the thread and shape of the thread. At first "cracker out of the box", you are trying to find an "off the shelf" tap that will work. It might not be a perfect fit, though, but good enough. Mike D
  9. Salts of nitrates and nitrites are too dangerous for you guys. You should stick to coating the wood with horse piss--a much safer substance. OR use nothing while you sun tan the wood--that works, also. Mike D.
  10. Chris Burt, thank you for the great idea of using gravers as knife blanks. I had no idea these existed. A search shows that they are made in a large array of sizes and steels. They do not appear to be very expensive. Mike D
  11. Squeak, squeak---just a tiny reminder--we have no idea how this bow worked before the animal gnawed on it. Mike D
  12. Just do the Lucchi repair. It does work, is not hard to do; thus, is not too expensive. The trick that makes this possible is the G-2 epoxy which makes a strong joint in the wood. Restore the wood dimensions to the original size. Playability should not significantly change since the repair is over a small region. Get the box of water colors out and this fix can be made invisible. French polish. Mike D
  13. I have tried washing the linseed oil (Barlean's food grade flax seed oil) and not washing it--it made no difference. Now days, I use both Barlean's and the cold pressed oil from Kremer. Both oils work for me. I do not see how washing the oil would hurt anything; so, keep doing it if you wish. The varnish problem appears to be dirt or some introduced dirt or particulate into the varnish. Here are a couple of ideas: 1) Let the varnish settle--never shake it. Pour the varnish off the top. 2) Filter the oil if there is still a problem--this will take out the particulates and the "worms'. 3) Use a fairly stiff brush to apply the varnish, and then use the 'tip off' technique to level and break the fine bubbles. Do a search if you do not know what 'tip off' means. I never use a thumb to apply varnish--how will you get varnish into the corners? Mike D
  14. Before you get overexcited with a new idea, you should always do some homework; such as, Ralph Mayer's "The Artists Handbook....." Saffron gets an F on its report card. So does Dragons Blood. Old wood develops a yellowish patina all on its own. Suntanning can accelerate this process before you put the finish on. Mike D
  15. Frank Pallister is the fellow doing the demo. Anyone see a fire extinguisher in that dump of a kitchen? If the beaker cracks or he knocks it over, fire everywhere. This is a bonehead. Basic chemistry technique is that you never stir using the thermometer. For these temperatures, you should be using a thermocouple. This cooking should be done outside , and he should be wearing some protective clothing. Mike D