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Froggie's Achievements

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  1. I accept the lash on Celtic vs. Irish. Yes, on-line lessons have progressed a great deal in 8 years. The FiddleVideo site now offers continuous looping by setting your own start and return points. Plus it provides slow-down capability that really helps with learning. In-person lessons are great, but watching the fingering over and over on a recorded video lesson facilitates my ability to play without sheet music. Of course, you can still download the sheet music if you wish. Also, playing without sheet music helps me at developing my listening skills.
  2. Casey Willis offers lessons at fiddlevideo.com. They are geared more to fiddlers than to classical. He has recorded lessons for learning a large number of songs/tunes at basic and advanced levels. I think he also does lessons via webcam. His website has free sample lessons as well as more complete subscription lessons. Kevin Burke does the Celtic lessons and Hanneke Cassell does Scotish lessons.
  3. Froggie

    Mystery Bow

    Tim, I have a very old bow that has the greater than 90 degree angle. I always though it was French until a very good bow maker told me some of the German makers who studied with French makers learned to use the same back angle. He gave me several pointers that indicated my bow was of German origin. I still think the back angle is a good indicator, but, as your wording 'suggests' , it guess it cannot be considered conclusive evidence. Pat
  4. The owner of this Fetique bass bow on ebay had the silver analyzed and hallmarked (I am not bidding on this item, nor do I have any monetary interest in it). I understand that changes to shop bows could improve their value, but... Does hallmarking a fine bow after it has left the maker's shop affect the value? Do the following modifications affect the value of important bows? (You might not know any of these were done). Or, does the resultant playablility outweigh these considerations? 1. Change of balance? 2. Change of the grip or lapping (assuming done in same style)? 3. Change in the camber? I have been told that a replacement frog can reduce the value of some bows by 50%.
  5. Thanks, I found it on amap. There ae two towns. One is Neukirchen in the North part of Germany, and the other, as you indicate, is Markneukirchen, across the border from Luby. I had to look a little closer to find Markneukirchen. The historical notes are very interesting to me.
  6. I am considering and older Roth violin, 1930 Ruggeri (355mm back). In doing a little research, some say there are different grades for these violins. This one is branded in the inside center of the back "Ernst Hienrich Roth" and "Mark Neukirchen. (I assume this means it was made in Neukirchen) It has a paper label with the signature "Ernst Heinrich Roth" and states it is a Ruggeri model. To my eye and ear, this is a fine instrument., but my knowledge is limited. If these did indeed come in different grades, how do you tell what grade it is. It also has a stamp in the back above the label, D672 (Ias I recll) and a penciled number 32 above the brand. Any help would be appreciated.
  7. double post deleted. How can I delete this?
  8. I have not used anything myself. I just wanted to know if others do. Some folks using bone for other purposes 'age' their work in tea or coffee.
  9. Brad, Have you tried soaking the bone tips in hot water and soda ash (sometimes called so-dash)? It takes about an hour to soften the bone. It takes a strong solution (about 1/2 volume of the container is crystals and then fill it with boiling water). I have been told that soaking them too long makes them rubbery, but I have not tried that. You need the bending form for bone tips. Bone takes more time than ivory. I usually bend ivory by heating over the alcohol flame and bending it over my thumb. It needs to be almost too hot to hold. I think the forms for ivory take too much time. If the bend isn't right, just re-heat and adjust it a little. I just received a batch of bone tips and they look very thick to me. I have no idea what kind of animal they came from, but they look grease free and nice and white. I will have to thin them before bending. I think they might break if I tried to bend them the way they are. Do you use anything to give bone a more 'ivory' or aged appearance (coffee or tea?) or do you leave them natural?
  10. Thanks for all the responses. I think the solders I have on hand will be fine. I found the melting points of the Tin/Silver 96/4 silver to be 237 deg C (460F). The plumbers' solder, 95% tin and 5% antimony mentioned by Brad melts at 230 deg C (446F). I was afraid some of my uncle's old refrigeration solder would not be appropriate in bow making. It is Sta-Bright, and I just searched it on the net and looks like it is 96/% tin and 4% silver, so it looks like it will work nicely. It is 1/8 inch diameter, so I will just hammer it to the right thinness and cut it to sizes I need. I recently bought 4 troy ounces of Safety-silvsolder (1200F melt point) at a garage sale for a dollar per troy ounce (value of the silver alone is about $9 per ounce of solder). It would not be economical if I were buying it new. It has 56% silver, 22% copper, 17% zinc and 5% tin. According to what I can find, it should be good for sterling ferrules. You could say it is "60% sterling", (56/92.5) = 0.60. I think I will just stick with the sterling rather than the Argentium because it is traditional and some folks might not think it is not sterling if it does not show black tarnish so readily.
  11. I was just looking for different solders for sterling bow wraps and came across this webpage http://www.gsgold.com/argentium-silver/argentium.htm. You can read details of this 97% silver alloy... it sounds interesting - stronger, less tarnishing, but it costs more than sterling. They offer sheet silver as well as wire. Two questions: 1. Is anyone using Argentiuim for bow fittings and if so, any comments. 2. What particular solder are you using for sterling bow windings? i.e. what is the silver, tin, copper content and the melting point?
  12. Manfio, Don't you need to turn the bevel up when you do this?
  13. Brad, I don't know, but it is just calcium carbonate. Do you think vinegar or lemon juice would react fast enough for you? Another choice would be a weak hydrochloric acid. Muriatic acid is ~33% HCL, available at a pool or spa supply or at a hardware that sells concrete. You can weaken it way down and practice on a scrap piece till you get the proper activity level. Maybe someone knows the proper percent to use. If you want to experiment with the acid, put one part muriatic into about 4 parts water and try that on scrap and then adjust accordingly. Don't pour water into acid, as that could create a violent reaction. In my day job, we use dilute muriatic to test for calcium carbonate in soils. I would think the lemon juice might be more controllable and safest, but may be slow.
  14. Froggie

    Rehair job

    Tighten your bow, and then put your thumb under the ribbon of hair. If you cannot see a shadow of your thumb through the hair, I would say you have too much hair. You should not have more than a couple of strays. There is no reason to count hairs. Personal preferences vary, but too much hair will choke the sound. Labor, rather than hair is the most expensive part of a rehair.
  15. Once I had a stick of not-so-great pernambuco that I over-heated in bending. It was a light stick (slight floater) and not really stiff. I thought I could maybe make it stiffer by overheating. The result was a very hard piece of wood. I dropped it on the bench and it sounded like it was made of glass, or something very brittle. After that it did not respond well to future bending. I did not complete that bow. Maybe it was just due to conditions for that particular wood, but after that, I decided that it was not a good idea to use such excessive heat. If you are not getting the stick to take a bend, could it be because it has been over-heated? Any similar experiences?
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