frizz

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About frizz

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  • Birthday 04/07/1952

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    http://www.stringinstrumentworkshop.com
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  • Location
    Green Bay
  1. Often I will be asked by an owner of a bow in this condition if I can "add a little more hair"!
  2. Years ago I repaired a bass that had a note written sometime in the early part of 20th century by a Detroit repairmen which read: "To hell with the Kaiser".
  3. I have purchased a couple of pair of these clip on magnifiers: https://www.opticsplanet.com/carson-flip-up-eyeglass-magnifier-cf10.html They work well and are very inexpensive.
  4. One of the first things I would check would be to see if a drip of varnish may have connected the wing of the f hole to the body. I had a customer that spent a lot of money replacing strings, bridges, and soundposts to try to correct a nasty sound that was eventually corrected by slicing the through the drip with a razor blade. I have found this problem on several manufactured instruments.
  5. No chemicals have been used to clean the strings, dry rag only.
  6. The case interior is not red, and the discoloration is happening on different brands of strings.
  7. One of my customers approached me at a rehearsal last night with a problem I have never encountered before. His cello strings are turning a pink/red color in the area between the bridge and the end of the fingerboard. It does not appear to be corrosion, but it will come off by scrubbing hard with a dry rag. It also comes off on the bow hair (turning it pink). He is using Larsen A & D, Tungsten Spirocore C & G, Kolstein Ultra rosin, and is using a Bam case. This happened to him last year at the start of winter, but went away in spring. I am at a loss about what is happening, so I thought that I would see if anyone else has encountered this problem, and what could be done to treat or prevent it. Thanks.
  8. I recently acquired six very nice old bows to restore and sell, all with nice quality pernumbuco shafts and ebony/silver mountings. The bows were well used, and with most of them, the markings on the shaft were so worn that only a few letters were legible. I know that none of these bows are "lost mastepieces", but it is very frustrating to not be able to read what was originally stamped on the bow. Do any the readers and contributors to this forum have techniques or ideas about how make worn markings more visible?
  9. I have just successfully finished "transplanting" the L.R. Baggs pickup into a new bridge. I removed the pickup by nibbling away at the wood surounding the pickup in the old bridge. I prepared the new bridge blank by cutting a narrow channel with a Dremmel router on the back just wide and deep enough to fit the pickup into. I epoxied the pickup into the bridge, and fit the blank to the instrument. In hindsight, it probably would have been easier to fit the bridge before pickup in, but nonetheless it works just as well as the original.
  10. It has always been a flaw of the L.R. Baggs violin pickup that when the bridge warped (or broke), the pickup had to be replaces. One of my customers brought a snapped Baggs bridge pickup in and asked if could be "transplanted" into a newly fit bridge. Before I get into it, I thought I would ask if anyone has ever tried re-using a Baggs pickup, or has any suggestions about how to go about removing the inlaid pickup from the bridge without damaging it.
  11. frizz

    Cello reamer

    My humble advice, don't skimp on getting the best tools if you can possibly afford it. I have an inner cheapskate that would like to rationalize buying the cheapest tool possible every time, but after 4 decades in the repair business, I finally purchased a spiral cut cello peg reamer from Howard Core, and have never regretted it. I can only think about how much easier my life would have been if I got the best tool when I started.
  12. Anyone who repairs instruments for schools will have seen a lot of those endpins. Usually one kid eating a peanut butter sandwich before practicing can spoil the pitch of the endpin forever! I once saw an endpin maybe 15 years ago that I really liked. It was made of clear plexiglass type of material, and the end of the buttton was polished like a lens, so that when you shone a light in the f holes, you could clearly see the fit of the soundpost and all of the rest of the internal construction. I've never seen another endpin like that since. Anyone else seen anything like that? Are they available anywhere?
  13. frizz

    Surgical Loupes

    I sometimes use a clip on flip up (like the dorky sunglasses) 10x magnifiers. I got them for less than $20 from an optical supply company. They are easy to find on the internet.
  14. What you pictured is a very early example of a chinrest, definitely NOT built for comfort. The original purpose of the chinrest was to hold the violin under the chin while the left hand was shifting down. I have a chinrest like that in my collection of "old violin stuff'. Like many accessories, chinrests have evolved to aaccount for comfort as well as functionality.
  15. I've seen/sold/repaired instruments from the Lowendahl workshop (Berlin) that had been marketed through Sears ca. 1900. Most of these instruments were quite nice.