Jeff White

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About Jeff White

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    J.K White FineViolins

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Clara, Ca
  • Interests
    Motocross, guitar and violin restoration, flying, construction/renovation.

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  1. Yeah, me too. I pretty much get the nut height (not grooves) right before I put the grooves in. I just take make my calcs beforehand and IF the grooves are too deep...I get annoyed, but not that often.
  2. I've done some "49er's" colored beadcord wraps this year!!!!
  3. There is a little back and forth, pushing that sharp edge into your closest turning (index) finger. Ripped mine a bunch. I have to remember to set mine inward on the on Alberti's. I like it for the clean finish up to the collar like pbelin said. Question for the Alberti's dudes: I cheaped out and didn't get the skiver (sp?). I just use the next larger size and push the peg shaft up to the blade to shave off what's left. Works fine. For those who HAVE that tool, am I missing something (Like, another purpose for it????).
  4. It looks like brown leather thong and white bead cord (thick) doubled up inbetween. Bead cord (not this guage)is not too uncommon.
  5. I liked that post, I then tried it withing a few months and it worked great. As far as "fishing" cleats, it's a common repair technique on guitars (a lot on ribs). Jeff, the way you hold the cleat tight is with a homemade (or Stew mac now makes them) wood block using an individual guitar tuner on the outside. This is StewMacs, but it has some limitations. I use a .016" guitar string if it's a rib crack on a student cheap chinese cello (usually all this is used for) because it's always super stubborn to pull together. If all comes together well, then I use a .010" guitar string. Tiny hole to be filled. On the inside pulling the cleat, I use a "thingy" that screws down on the string with a tiny nylon washer. It's something used in model airplanes for elevator control. (this is similar) That pulls up against the cleat on the inside using the tuner block on the outside. A total compromise, but it's usually done on a $1000 student chinese cello to keep it structurally sound. Works quite well.
  6. Agreed, hence I wanted to see the plate condition. Seems like the spacing between the plug and edge of the plate are too small especially considering the blowout problem. I would want some security there. It also might seem there is a small crack starting there? THAT would be a dis qualifier for me. At least
  7. Doesn't seem anyone has answered this question. Seems all are talking about the top pic. Isn't the bottom one (the NEW herdim???)is a Berbuer? I have been wanting a super clean finish on my pegs and wonder about this. Matt N. mentioned that, that is how he finishes his. This also "seems" to be better at dealing with getting the perfect even match on both sides of the peg, to a perfect fit. NO? Yes? Another thing, as much as I love my Alberti's, I struggle with using them for cello pegs. Seem's no matter how much I go from zero, to slight in the shaving, it tends to grab and take chunks (I'm exaggerating). Maybe I'm using too cheap a quality of peg?
  8. Agreed. that crack on the side of the head looks like it was from an oversized plug being forced in, blowing out the side.
  9. If that crack on the side of the head is old (and holding) AND the tip plate is solid all around (NO tiny cracks at the edges of the tip block), then rehairing shouldn't be an issue, if done carefully. What is a problem, is possible damage to the tip, but the "goop" on the tip along with being careful might keep you from having an issue. Bear in mind, this can all be repaired (tip). Can we have a pic looking down onto the tip plate to see the condition?
  10. I'll thrice that. Looks like an old crack you may have never had a reason to notice. The tip of the bow (not tip of plate) Looks intact, just the tip of the plate with some "schmoock" added in it's place. Bottom line, if that crack is "live", then I'm sure you rehairer won't rehair it without a solution.
  11. Same one Matt has. Kevin gave me a ton of info on what to get or not. I'm a real neophyte with this and he was a great help. "mylittlemachineshop" #3990. Have yet to use it for metal...... Gotta say "Thanks", you inspired me to do this.
  12. Well, I bought a mini mill (and LOVE it!!). What did I learn from this process??? 1. To listen more closely to Jerry in HOW he says to match the wood. (I did it dry). I ended up with a more obvious visual clue to the repair. Hey wait, can't I say I did that on purpose so as not to deceive a future buyer? 2. I used G2 (was scared of structure)instead of the Hide glue, gluteride combo, so I ended up with glue lines. 3. Pretty quick repair, took longer to do the tip! 3. Will use a more secure holding method if a customers bow 4. Respect for Archetiers work in getting something that seemed so innocuous like the bevels/camfers, you can see I screwed them up. I know it wasn't $ worth it, but it is a decent silver better Paesold viola bow. Here is another milling project I did. I love this thing! Didn't match the wood well, too much red. Sure matched well when dry!! Ooops
  13. Doing it with the end of a fractional reamer, I could make it less than 5mm in diameter. Figure that would be small enough? Currently, I make them cylindrical a little larger than that. I'd like to see your modified countersink sometime. Mine are all too steep. Would guess you just make up the pins on the lathe.
  14. And Jerry, this is why I will be contacting you...... He is trying to scavenge up the drills mentioned. I talked to him about the nature of the drills being more like "boring bits" to prevent the wandering, nice to hear it works the way it's intended. Mine should be on the way, hopefully not "sans" the bits.