Jeff White

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About Jeff White

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    J.K White FineViolins

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  • Location
    Santa Clara, Ca
  • Interests
    Motocross, guitar and violin restoration, flying, construction/renovation.

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  1. I thought all along that the adjuster was replaced, albeit a very different looking one. Good fit though.
  2. Yes, hard to tell from the pics, but I"m also going the German commercial violin route.
  3. Really??? No way............Is this their attempt at Ferrari-izing?
  4. Nathan, It seems in your original post, you laid out the ground work for that the only consistant in the bent bridges was the customer (I agree, BTW). All the situations you mentioned pointed to that. The only thing that went against this was in you 2nd post where you mentioned NOT seeing any bent bridges from older good heavier shops. I'm thinking that if the customer who had a bridge from those shops, a while ago, was inclined to NOT keep it straight, then it would have already been replaced, hence, you would only see straight bridges from older shops. Am I making sense? I truly believe that almost any bridge kept upright, in position, will stay straight, and, any bridge left to tip will warp. BTW, I have thought as you about this as I have the same experience when I see older straight bridges. I like Jerry's idiot stick, but have yet to implement it. I think this is the key to it all. BTW, I frequently have to "unwarp" school cello bridges and a damp rag on the concave belly area in the microwave (steam) solves it every time, albeit, temporarily. I used to clamp them, but they seem to have the memory to go back perfectly straight, like every time! In reference to the comment someone made about seeing the bridge tilted forward, but the feet flat is this: I think that when a cello bridge starts tipping towards the board, it lifts the back of the feet off the belly to the tp side (Duh!), BUT, if left in that situation, I'm thinking the bridge will FURTHUR warp allowing the feet to return to flat on the belly, leaving the top curving more to the board. Nonsence? Just my humble view of it.
  5. I'm at the point where I'm after treating the frog (humidity, heat, wicking acetone,alcohol etc) I'm bypassing the tape and glueing the stick on. Just keeps separating with the ca not holding onto the slide. It's holding pretty well before separation. Trying heat and acetone wicking now.
  6. I wish that were the case. The owner is a very accomplished Violist who thinks this is a better bow than it is. But, he loves it and it doesn't matter the provenance. Can't hand it back. Not from China and been rehaired many times. Only option is to fix it. Might be making a new slide but time is on my side, hence, if I can't get it apart, the "heavies" at Oberlin Bow Resto next week will save me!!!!
  7. 'tis brazilwood.
  8. Hmmmm, I wouldn't base the varnish base on that. Not matter what the varnish, the q tip alcohol will take the top layer off first, which is dirt. I'm pretty sure you will find that alcohol will "do a number on it" regardless. You mentioned that the UV showed the same varnish on top and back, I'm sure this will be oil/alcohol based.
  9. I'm having trouble picturing this when you say "sticky side out". I have tried something similar with double stick tape.....I'll see Kate next week and I'll get clarity. Or, better yet, if I haven't succeded, I'll give the frog to her!!!!!
  10. Tried the glue stick to slide to no avail. I'll try humidity changes and maybe chemical (alcohol,acetone). Doesn't acetone effect the pearl? jeff
  11. Oh man, never heard of that band (Mandolin Orange), great sound. Why did you link that?
  12. I was going the other direction, let's see what the people who really know say. Dark pics, though I can't blame that if I"m wrong.
  13. Man, I'm stuck, pun intended....I have a german frog that I just can't get the slide moving. In for a rehair and thumb leather. I always first try the finger and rosin, then move to packing tape with a tab (downward pressure), then piece of wood with double stick tape and tapping, carefully. Nothing, won't budge. It's a fairly contemporary Paesold ebony/silver frog. I resorted to glueing a piece of wood to the slide and nothing, glue separated with the slide (and, no, I didn't get glue into the edges of the slide). Thoughts?
  14. 69 D35 would be 3 piece definately, and I think brazilian, right?
  15. Yes, I almost never get it on the first try. But you got to admit, it's important. I can't imagine any other way. I'm a LOUSY violin player and misaligned heads even drive me crazy. Not as much a pain as the on and off getting the tailpiece afterlength the way I want, you gotta admit, that's much more of a pain.