Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Evan Smith

Members
  • Posts

    1961
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

8386 profile views

Evan Smith's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (5/5)

  1. It will work fine, there is no difference in stiffness either direction. The only difference is that it is much more difficult to fit on the slab, , no wonder a scraper was giving you such a hard time.
  2. Hi Ken, There are a few ways to do this. No need to retool for a one off! I’ve seen what you can do,,, you got this! A large wooden dowel,, or steel,,(whatever) for a form to push against and a regular clothes iron would work. Just give it a bit of time. There is no law about this. Place a wet rag in between the iron and the wood and give it a minute, then use it dry, then wet,, repeat,,, don’t rush it, give it time to bend, don’t oversoak the wood, especially if it has heavy flames. Wet then dry, then let it cool, walk away for a bit, take a breath. The wood will reset after it cools,, then it will bend further, don’t force it, patience is key here.. Just roll the wood over the round form, bit by bit. The corners and c-bouts, are the only difficulty,, the rest can be ironed to shape right on the mold. Just clamp the corners and iron the sides to shape. Finding, or making a simple curved something or other to finish up the c-bouts on might make it easier, make a wooden form or,,,, surely the wife has that perfect thing in the kitchen,,, flowers might help, while you grab her iron!
  3. A soft buffing wheel loaded with some Bon Ami,(calcium carbonate) or some diatomaceous earth,,,and a touch of olive oil made into a paste like consistency will polish rosewood or ebony,, or any hardwood to look like glass without any finish on it. The oil ends up drying and holding it all together. At first, it slings out a bit, but after that it's a treat. I have a buffing wheel I loaded with these things that has lasted for years, and will last much longer than I will. It leaves things dry and polished like you've never seen. It just lasts and lasts. Other polishing compounds always leave a reside all over that has to be cleaned off, what a mess. This leaves pegs, nuts, fingerboards,and chinrests, clean, very smooth and shiny, just a quick wipe with a soft cotton rag when done and Bang!
  4. Oh heavens yes,,,Charliemaine to the rescue! Don't mess around with no crap, he makes some really nice stuff! and is very generous! Me however,, I would probally fool around with it a bit,,,,,,, 1. See if dealer will warranty the wood. 2. Do your best to optimize the wood that you have. 3. Do not bookmatch, place the sap pockets toward the inside of the violin 4. Place the sap pockets nearest the center seam toward the neck, they could end up at the bridge , soundpost line, avoid that. 5. Clean the center seam up as far as it will allow enough width. Wings could also be added. 6. and, or,, .Plane down the backside as far as can be done, keeping just enough thickness for the proper arch height and total edge thickness. Then square up the center seam and glue the plates together. 7. Carve out the plate and repair as necessary, just like many of us have done. How many have you made? Do you need the practice?
  5. Yes, Do this exactly and the break can completely disappear to all but you. Do a dry run first to ensure that no wayward splinters get in the way of a tight joint. Maybe get every thing set up and leave the clamps a touch loose to wick in the glue, then tighten them fast,, whatever your own comfort level,, superglue dries real fast in ebony. I've done a number of these successfully.
  6. Andreas, Ya gotta loosen things up a bit,,, get some of that wood outta there! Let it move!
  7. I have something like this,,,, but an older version, a real cheap shark,, https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shark-Steam-Mop-S1000WM/56113019?athbdg=L1200 I will admit at first I thought it was real stupid. My wife had an older dying friend that was off loading all kinds of things toward her,,, she told my wife that I could use it for something in my shop,, and she didn't mean the floor. It sat around for a while and as I picked it up to throw it it out,, it dawned on me that this thing makes steam,, and lots of it,,, instantly! I tore it apart and there is a round tube sticking out molded out of the hard plastic body,,ready to be used as is,, or with a hose attached,, whatever. Push the handle once or twice and clear ultra hot steam comes out in seconds,,, leaving everything hot and dry. Pump it a few more times and it adds more water and it comes out wet and steamy,, real easy to adjust to whatever the need is at the time. Removes glue ghosts, sound post dents, fingernail dents during making, raises the grain nicely,, loosens ribs for replacement easily,, like you have never imagined,. I've never accidentally loosened a glue joint with it., it all happens so fast it doesn't give joints time to soften unless you want them too. I would NOT do without one of these baby's,,, saves a bunch of time, easy to get out, easy to use,,, easy to put away, ready to go all the time. I just have the body all stripped down, and hold the entire thing and point it where ever I need to sweat! If you don't want the steam on something,, use alum foil,, tape,, cardboard,, use your imagination,,,,
  8. This is how to get authentic tool marks,, I had a feather up my rear about doing a 12 hour viola, box on day one, scroll day two, (really tired from day one) then varnish on day three. I drew out the shape freehand, glued the blocks on the back then ran like hell! I finished the box, then stopped. When I crossed the finish line,, no more,,finished. Though just a bit more could have done a lot to tidy things up, ask me if I care? I'll straighten up the f-holes some day. In my mad rush I actually used different templates on the bottom of the f's,,, oops. I then brushed some japan drier on the wood and put it in some heat and the clear varnish turned this brilliant red. It would never happen again. This is not deliberate antiquing,,, just is what it is. One of my fave's.
  9. Now That's,,, what I'm talk'in about!
  10. It would be a hoot for sure,, so much easier in fact,, it should have a discount, don't you think?
  11. It would have to be made very clean and perfect with sharp edges to pull it off,, other than that,,,,,,,,, There are nothing but advantages in building a black violin. No flame in the ribs to break. No flame in the back to pull out You can use a tiny bit of linseed oil to lubricate the chisels while carving scroll and the back,,, it will then cut like butter You can size the top with hide glue as you work the edges and f holes so no tear out ,,,and the edges can be made exceptionally clean with much less effort than normal You can soak the edges in super glue to make them extra tough to resist dings and dents. No worries about glue ghosts. The corduroy of the top is not a problem, there is none. Don’t have to varnish the thing. Seal then glaze with black,,,, just be sure to find out what color black they want, all blacks are not equal. There will not be any tonal consequences at all. If you decide not to do it be sure and give them my number, with a dozen medals and more than that many certificates and references I can guarantee satisfaction. I’m not afraid of a black violin. I would love to make a black violin. Did I miss something? Evan
  12. I would look back through the iterations of this project and see when it first appeared. That is a peak usually associated with the bridge table area, the wings sucking the energy? There will be no peaks without valleys. No sound without waves. Would you explain this please.
  13. Just an old rock and roll fiddle, no big deal really.
  14. I have never seen anything torrified at 160c, doesn't that temp just toast it a bit and add color, no real significant permanent structural changes. Many hours at that temp maybe something will happen, but not an hour,, Am I wrong? What do you pressurize the chamber with?
×
×
  • Create New...