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TomCumpston's Achievements

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  1. Wow Really nice work. I'm working on number 5 and 6 and have gleaned some good ideas from your photos on how to proceed with the edging and scroll work. I have a couple of questions. I noticed that the chamfers on your scroll look a little dirty is this just dirt from normal handling or is it hide glue and if so whats the purpose? and what picture did you use for your scroll?
  2. Hi Seth, Ive been dealing with a troublesome bandsaw myself. Here are a few tips from the december 2004 issue of Fine wood working magazine. For resawing(cutting sides) he recomends a blade with 3 tpi, the larger gullets clear out the saw dust better. High blade tension in not necessary it wears groves in the wheel and can flex the saw frame out of alignment. Here the most important bit of info. Align the blade to eliminate drift. Make sure that your blades center rides on the center of your top wheel. if its at the front half of the wheel it will cut to the right if its at the back half it will cut to the left. hope this helps.
  3. 21mm of platform. 3mm of overhang. 1mm for sides. leaves me 14mm for the upper block. with 3mm to spare. I imagine that's pretty tight.
  4. thank you cob3 i'll get a hold of him and find out.
  5. My measurments seem to be ok and there is a little extra room at the block platforms but not much. I rigged up a little saw to do the work. but it is going to take a long time if i go this route. appreciate all the comments. I think I'll stop now before I really mess something up. can someone direct me to a supplier that would be able to match this wood. please!!!!! p.s. here's a kicker I only paid $25.00 for it
  6. thanks for the input andrew. For better or for worse the deed has been done. There is enough room to fit the end blocks however there is no gentle slope to those platforms its a straight drop off. Do you think this will be an issue? if so i guess i could add some plan wood to thos areas
  7. I bought a nice piece of wood at an antique shop. Finding sides to match has been a problem. So I'm trying to coax sides out of the interior of the back. Has anyone ever done this and if so do you have any pointers? So far My plan go like this. I'm using a 1/8 down cut bit from stew mac and have routed a 3.5mm deep channel 2 7/8 wide by 12 1/16 long next i'll remove the wood outside of the rectangle then use a thin blade saw to cut out the sides out THEN i'll have to saw/split the 3.5mm thick slab into the sides proper. it sounds ambitious but i think it's possible in theory, i hope.
  8. please excuse the clutter. I do most of my work on a 3' x 5' desktop that sits behind my computer. btw matt thats a nice looking scroll and the piece in the background looks pretty good too. where did you get your wood?
  9. Enjoyed it You'll have to do it again soon. I'm amazed at how some people can identify makers, it must take years of practice and opportunity, the opportunity that is to see and study violins like that often. I'm certainly out of my league when it comes to indentifcation let alone making. But I'm learning.
  10. I'm gonna take another stab at this. How about Petrus,Joseph and Andreas. All 3 are Guarneri
  11. would they be the real thing? Antonio, Joseph and Nicolo
  12. I used potassium silicate for my first violin and I think I went a little overboard with it. I'll give you a blow by blow account. I Didn't soak my wood in water. first I soaked it in oxalac acid to bleach out some spalting in the wood, then nuetralized it with boraxo. Next came the silicate and lots of it. 2 coats inside and 3 coats on the outside, full strength I might add. I guess I was all doped up on Sacconi at the time. I had just got his book. The wood had a nice shine and color to it. Then came the tung oil, I lost count of how many coats I put on it. 4 maybe 5. After that I used International violin co. varnish 2 or 3 coats That was 6 years ago and it hasn't disintegrated yet. I showed it to a maker in the area and all he would say about it was. wow thats loud
  13. sorry about the fuzzy image it was taken with one of those cheap 15 dollar digital cameras [/image] It was all done with a hand held drill and a hacksaw. If you can see were the screw is inserted at the bottom of the c or G clamp i sawed out a chunk of the metal to make the drilling easier. thanks for the help Alex. Now I'll be able to post some pic's of my next violin
  14. I have a picture of a dial caliper holder I made. If someone could give me instrution on how to post the picture of it I will. Until then I'll explain how I made It. I took a c clamp with a 3 inch high and 6 3/4 deep throat and took out the screw and swivel thingy then drilled out the threads so that the dial would fit in. To hold the dial in place I taped a 1/4hole in the side and put in a thumb screw. For the lower part of the c clamp, you drill a hole starting at the bottom all the way through. then you get a long bolt and grind off the head until it's round. stick it in the hole until it touchs the caliper then fix it in with some nuts. It works rather well.
  15. Didn't mean to sound to negative just trying to throw a little humor in there with the m80 remark. the back is 5mm in the center to 3.5 mm at the scoop. With the bridge (41mm wide) centered on the top the left foot is 2mm shy of overhanging the bar. So I guess I'll take your advice and get or make a bridge thats 43mm wide at the feet. (story behind the m80 remark) I work in construction and one of the guys was telling us how his wife was having a bad hair day so he asked her if she had combed her hair with an m80,as it was sticking out in all directions, we all found it rather humors apparently she didnt and he had to spend some time on the couch.
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