Seth_Leigh

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  1. Fifty Shades of Stephen Faulk's Cello?
  2. Also, Ken, is this your first one? If so, you could take some liberties like this, knowing it's not going to be your masterpiece anyway. Still, for all the hundreds of hours you will put into that cello, and all the money you're spending on wood for the front and back anyway, is it really worth it to cobble together a neck blank like this? What will you really save?
  3. Btw, the vacuum filter kit I bought 7 years ago has a larger flask than this one, and a different colored plastic manual vacuum pump, but it's more or less what's seen in this auction: vacuum filtration kit I know it's just more money, but it was money I'd already spent 7 years ago, so I've been using the heck out of it. As I said, while drying the lake sludge, or filtering the madder liquor prior to precipitating out the lake, this filtration system is worth its weight in gold. The vacuum causes things to filter incredibly fast compared to gravity feed through a coffee filter in a st
  4. Franciscus, in fact I have a vacuum filter setup that I bought on eBay seven years ago at the recommendation of Fiddlecollector, and had never used until the last couple weeks with my new madder experiments. I mentioned using it in another thread. WIth this espresso-made batch I used the vacuum filter to filter out the tiny madder sediment that makes it through the espresso machine filter unit before I mixed the madder dye and the dissolved alum. I used it again to filter off the water after the last washing. The vacuum-assisted filter flask/funnel is worth its weight in gold for these exper
  5. Kallie, every other madder lake experiment I've ever done until now used normal coffee filters and gravity to filter things, and the problem is that the filter clogs up with debris really quickly and the flow slows down to just a drip, and takes forever to complete. The beauty of the espresso maker method is that the hot water is forced under pressure through the filter cup. It doesn't get clogged and slow to a trickle, but is finished in just a couple minutes.
  6. I thought I'd resurrect this old thread to add a further result. I went out last week and bought a cheap espresso maker at Walmart, and made some madder lake using the method described by Neal Ertz, which uses nothing but hot water under pressure in the espresso maker to leach out the dyestuff from the roots, then mixes in alum, then precipitates the pigment out using dissolved potash. Neal mentions this, but I think he understates it: this stuff is an absolute dream to grind. The dried lake I made using the Espresso Method practically dissolved into a few drops of mastic varnish. I liter
  7. I think it's flatter than my straight-edge is straight. It was flat enough that I was able to get a perfect joint on my thick and long maple and spruce cello plates, after struggling to get that with my #5*. I don't know what a machinist would call flat, but it's certainly flat enough. *btw, this #5 was surface-ground flat to within the tolerances acceptable to a crotchety older machinist who agreed to true it up for me, and then spent at least twice as long trying to make it perfect than I thought he should have. The man was a true perfectionist, and did a fantastic job on that plane
  8. Violinum, I own the Veritas #6 plane that you asked about in the OP. It is excellent. I bought it because I was struggling to get a perfect joint in my cello plates with my Record #5 plane, and thought the longer #6 would make the job easier. It did. I have just a few tools which I really treasure as high quality machines, and this Veritas plane is one of them. I haven't got a huge body of experience with various planes to compare with this Veritas, but it seems to be excellent. If you haven't got access to close-ups, and want to see it in greater detail, I can take photos of
  9. You can make shaped charges using the domed bottom of a wine bottle (this is true). To make it more authentic, you need to raid a museum and collect some 17th or 18th century Cremonese wine bottles. It's what Stradivari would have done.
  10. Oh, I was sick of limiting my coffee source to the Kuerig maker. I've got some beans that don't work very well in the Kuerig, and had been thinking of getting a new cheap drip coffee maker anyhow, soooooooo.... I spent the $40 at Walmart on the cheap espresso maker. I'm going to give that method a shot. Probably tonight.
  11. Roger, my question to you is this: is it a waste of time because you don't think it looks good, or because you don't think the classic Cremonese did it this way? I guess those two could be connected, if you define "looks good" as "looks like classical Cremonese". I do this because it's fun, and because whether the Cremonese did it this way or not, I don't know what they actually did, so I can't do that anyway. I have to do something, and I like the look of a good madder lake. So, I may as well work on it. I don't think that "looks good" is strictly limited to "is the same as classic
  12. In my other 7-year old madder lake thread, I mentioned the vacuum-assisted filter flask. This was recommended by Fiddlecollector, and I bought one off eBay back then and never used it until today. You pour off the water until you've got just the water precipitate layer at the bottom of your bucket or jar, then pour that layer into this filter funnel/flask combo. It takes filter paper (doesn't look like it would pass water easily, but it does). You can see the filter paper two posts up in the photo of three quantities of different portions of drying madder lake. It's the round circle
  13. I've only made two violins, and I read Johnson and Courtnall prior to, and during, both of them. I also asked lots of questions on here. There were lots of things I did the J&C way, but lots of things I did based on things people said here, particularly Michael Darnton. I don't think my blade is a Hock, though I have a couple Hock plane irons, and like them very much. I think the one in my photo is Japanese. It's got the softer steel on the sides and a very hard central section (you can see the difference in the steel with the naked eye) down the center. Btw, after reading
  14. Btw, having now read all about Neil Ertz's (and Roger's, and Eero Haahti’s) espresso method, I'm very seriously considering going out to Walmart and spending the $30-40 on a cheap espresso machine just to give that method a try. Heck, I've still got some roots. Btw, this stuff is pretty fun for me. I hope it's fun for you guys too. I know it's work for some of you, but at least I hope you enjoy your work. Btw, using the methods I've used recently and in the past, I have a devil of a time grinding the lake into the consistently fine powder that we want. In fact, it boggles my mind th
  15. Hey guys. I just made some more madder lake. I wish I'd read this whole thread first. To be honest, I should have read my own thread from 7 years ago all the way through first. Someone asked about adding the potash while vinegar is still present in the roots. I used a lot more vinegar this time around. Way too much. I put in like 3 cups of vinegar, but I figured I'd just evaporate it all out and be perfectly fine. I simmered my potash/root/vinegar concoction for over a whole day (over 24 hours), evaporating off at least half of the original volume. I added more water several