Joseph Hullender

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About Joseph Hullender

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/27/1988

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    Violin, guitar, celli, perfecting the craft constructing the acoustic chamber

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  1. Lyndon, thanks for the model number. I will look into that camera and also the other camera mentioned by Nanado,..... I am kind of wondering what lense I should purchase??? lyndon,.. what do you use??? I see nanado uses a 55-200. Honestly this is really new to me. I have had very nice digital cameras, but all autofocus. and when I say very nice,... I mean under $650, so not that nice, but for regular point and shoot, fairly good may be a better discription. Are lenses just "one size fits all" when it comes to ataching it to your camera? or do I have to get a lense with a certain thread pattern. That lamp/lighting equiptment looks freaking expensive. I really don't want to invest too much other than in the camera. Honestly, I cant afford it,... but I cant afford bad photographs either. The article on tarisio's webpage is AWSOME!!!! I really wanted to see photos of the "SETUP" and equiptment, so that I can visualize it in my head. (my head needs all the help it can get these days). Thank you all for your profesional input, and I will be making purchases and keeping you posted on my photography progress. I will post some before photos,..(using my current point and shoot, stands, and lighting.) and after (new lamps, umbrellas, and new SLR) so that should be very interesting.
  2. I simply would like to photograph violins to help with identification, and have no want to hide any flaws or make glamour shots. I want perfectly accurate photos, that portray the colors, figure, and shape of the instrument verry accuratley. I will look into an SLR camera, and possibly find a "for dummies" class in photography.
  3. I did read Mr. Darnton's article, but it seams so complex. There has to be a "dumbed down" method.
  4. I APARENTLY take terrible photos of violins, and would like to know how to improve my skills. I have been given very good advice by a pro, who takes amazing pics. But I would like to know how you guys do it. I'm using a 14 megapixel cannon camera, or a 16.5 megapixel cannon. They are simple $300 point and shoot cameras. I have a tripod, and several clip on work lights. I want to take photos not so that the violin LOOKS GREAT, or the GRAIN POPS, but so that everything is accurate and can be identified by photo alone. My questions are- 1. What type of background? Where can I get it? 2. How far is violin or bow from background? 3. Flash or no Flash? 4. Zoom or no zoom? 5. What type of lighting if I do not have daylight? 6. What type of bulb? 100 what clear? Ultraviolet? I don’t know??? 7. What color background? 8. How to stabilize violins and bows? 9. Please give a full description of your process of photographing a violin or a bow, so that I can visualize 10. How it is done in many different ways. I have attached several photos I like and that I believe give great detail. I may be wrong. Please direct me to any examples of great violin photography. Thanks for your help as always.
  5. Well that is quite a disappointment. I trust that the man I purchased it from is telling the truth, but possibly the truth is not the correct opinion. I am very let down by your conclusions. I am thinking the frog is not original, simply because the wear marks on the pernambuco do not match the frogs under lining outline. I will have to take some closer pics, and look closer at the lapping. I'm not sure its original.
  6. <FONT size=3><FONT face=Calibri>I have a small collection of Hill bows, some of which are certified, and some are questionable as far as authenticity. But onto business…</FONT></FONT><BR><BR><FONT face=Calibri><FONT size=3>I purchased this bow about two years ago for a fair amount. NOT SMALL,… but fair. I purchased it from a long time personal friend of Arthur Bultitude, which was a Hill maker from 1922 to 1961 (documented on hill site) but truth is, he was with them until 62. <BR><BR>ANYWAY,… this was a personal bow of Bultitude's, and was purchased by a good friend of mine, along with two more hill bows, and two of his "bultitude" bows made in 79'. My friend didn't ask the original maker of this Hill bow, but came to the conclusion that it was one of Sydney Yeoman's very early bows. Given the notch in lower tip mortise. Yeoman's bows usually had a very sharp notch in the mortise, but this one has a circular notch, which was sometimes seen in his early work. The circular notch evolved into the easier and faster sharp notch that is most commonly seen in his bows. Fewwwwww….!!! </FONT><FONT size=3>That's a lot of info, and I do not know how much of it is accurate, that is why I am posting it here.<BR><BR>Other characteristics of the bow are.- No numbers or letters visible on underside of frog, tip, or bow. W.E. Hill and Sons is double stamped and slightly misaligned in the usual manner. Tip is original, not cracks or repairs. All mortises in great shape. <BR><BR>I wouldn't really even care who made this bow, but damnet it plays better than any other bow I have seen, and has near perfect balance. So we shall see. Thank you for your input or any info you can offer. And forgive my uneducated southern ramblings. <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></FONT><BR><BR></FONT>
  7. Just received my copy of the 2012 "RED BOOK" and have spent about an hour going through it. It is a good tool, especially for someone like me who is pretty inexperienced, and sometimes just need some type of starting point in pricing an instrument.
  8. I am not on the up and up as far as grafts go. I'm not a violin pro, I build guitars for a living, and only wish violins were as humbly built as guitars. They are so complex, and I grasp about 2% of the facts and figures that I would like to comprehend. After reviewing the differences in cheek and peg box grafts, I agree with Lyndon that this is a cheek graft to sure up the pegbox. -Martin- Thank you for your point of view, and I am in the same boat you were once in. I lack the expertise to differentiate between a nice instrument, or a VSO POS, and it seems when I do find something that I admire, it turns out to be something like the instrument in this post. I hate to shoot down the instrument house that told me this was Italian. And yes, they also said it had been “well repaired and just needed a good setup”. Needless to say I will not be returning. It’s amazing how violin shops with amazing pedigrees, and generations of loyal business by thousands of eager collectors like myself. They have probably already seen this post and are hoping I do not implicate them. It had a decent sound before It was taken down, and with the rite setup work, I think it will sound ok. I don’t mind some prodding especially from real experts. And I do recognize the true experts from the “peanut gallery” and I also see people that undervalue their own opinions for one reason or another. Now me personally, have every right in the world to undervalue my opinion, simply because I hardly have enough knowledge of violins to even form an opinion. Haha. So, given that this may be bohemian,… what would the value be if it did turn out to have a somewhat sweet sound. My guess would be in the 650 to 1k range. If the repairs hadn’t been done so poorly, mabe 1,500. But that’s just a guess. I do have a question about one of my Hill bows, and will be opening another topic in a few mins about that. Wondering of the maker. I do believe it is Sydney yeoman, but can’t be sure. Have only seen a few of his bows.
  9. More pics of my priceless coveted violin. Luckily for me the brown varnish like “whatever it is”… easily comes off with the rite technique, so hopefully when I get it down to the base varnish,… It will look less like a steaming pile of unsalted shit. You can see the graft, bushings, sound post patch, and the treble f-hole has been grafted as well. Strange.
  10. Thank you for your input. True professionalism and talent at work. Time tested abilities to prove you are better than everyone perceives you. Obviously your expertise is undervalued and you should be better respected.
  11. I will post better pics of the pegbox and graft. I have a really crappie camera
  12. I have a violin that was purchased a long time ago, and I have paperwork telling me what its "suposed to be" however, I would really value your opinions more than this profesional,... well known"firm" simply because I know this business is not always so honest. It has no visible label, but some repair tags dating back to the earliest of 1880's. They appear to be genuine and the repair work has been done amazingly well. It obviously needs some work in its current condition, but when I purchased it, it was set up well, and sounded amazing. The arches are very defined, and really give a sweet sombre tone. Thank you for your help, and any input you can offer. Great looking scroll graft and decent bushings.
  13. Hello, I happened upon a book a few years ago, and am in need to find a copy of it. I have no idea what it is, or who the author is, but it was a three ring binder-style book full of auction sales records from 1980-1994. It had violins, bows, cellos, and basses. It gave great information on identification, sold prices, makers families. It didn't have any photos whatsoever. I would either like to get that book, IF ANYONE KNOW WHAT IT IS OR WHERE I CAN FIND IT... Or I would take any other sugestions on books you have experience with. Thanks!!!
  14. Thank you all for your input and replies. I will most definitely sample some of MR. Robson’s varnish on some sample pieces of maple and spruce. Now to answer your questions,… Robertdo- I used a mixture of tru-oil and shellac. It’s not that I am not happy with it, just that I feel using gun stock varnish CANT be the best way to go. I love working with it. It’s very forgiving and the learning curve isn’t that bad at all. But if I am going to really devote a lot of my life and brain to learning the best methods that I can make work for me, I don’t want to continue down the wrong direction. Homey- I have used an amazing amount of colored sprayed lacquer. Not only do I paint 90% of everything I build with it, I also use it on motorcycle tanks, fenders, and other parts. Also use it in my taxidermy business to paint all of my fish, and touch up deer noses, bear paws,…… Michael N.- I build A LOT of guitars. Between 2 and five per week get started, and I finish most of them inside of 45 days for electrics, and 90 days for acoustics. I also restore 5-10 guitars a quarter, and paint motorcycle tanks/fenders/parts, and fish. ….. Taxedermy. I also refinish furniture, and kill weeds with any other lacquer that I'm not satisfied with or that sets up. Haha, I use seagrave/mcfaddens. Again…. Really appreciate all the info guys,… keep it coming.