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About davidstimson

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  1. I am looking for a mail order source for Phillips 20w 03/rs bulbs and fixtures for a light box. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thanks, David
  2. #1 peter guarneri #2 del gesu early 1740's #3 amati
  3. The middle one could be Bardot, but neither of the others is Depardeau!
  4. A couple more things to check - Is the notch for the e-string in the bridge too deep? Sometimes the e-string will saw its way into the bridge, which can lead to harshness. A bridge that is too thin at the top can have the same effect. Having the soundpost too tight, or too far to the right is another possibility.
  5. davidstimson

    Top Removal

    The alcohol works great for removing fingerboards, too. I use one of those miniature plastic pipettes to squirt the alcohol carefully into the joint. Be careful of the varnish, though, in case it is a type that can be harmed by alcohol.
  6. I have been seeing ads for this in "American Lutherie", and finally ordered one. It is perfect for violin work where one doesn't usually want to use large quantities of glue. This one holds about 5 teaspoons, and keeps the glue at 140 - 150 degrees F. I just used mine for the first time today, and it is great! Here's the web site: mini glue pot
  7. I have been wondering whether the wood might have been steamed in a steambox. I do a lot of steam bending in boatbuilding and have noticed that steaming will rapidly accelerate the drying process, and it also seems to stabilize the wood. I steamed the wood for the del Gesu "Vieuxtemps" that I am making, and if it comes out sounding as good as the original, I'll be sure to let you know.
  8. I read five or six violin making books before I made my first violin two years ago. The best, by far, is the Courtnall & Johnson book called "The Art of Violin Making". It is not cheap, but well worth the money. (no violin books are cheap!)
  9. Speaking of buzzes - I recently had an annoying and evasive buzz in my violin, and trying to locate it was driving my crazy. It turned out to be the point on the wing of one f-hole rubbing against the opposite side. When I carved the f-holes, I was careful to leave the tiniest gap at the points of the wings - no more than a saw kerf. The varnish ran into the gap, dried, and then cracked, and that was what was rubbing. Arrrrrrrgh!
  10. The ebony liner is still intact on the bone, so I guess I 'll just go ahead and glue it on with CA glue after cleaning the surfaces. Thanks, everyone for all your help. David
  11. Here's a photo of the repaired tip: The roughness was just old glue, which I scraped off. If I don't want to use super glue, would hide glue work OK? Thanks, David
  12. Brad- The original bone tip is in good conditon, and already bent to fit the head of the bow. Any reason I shouldn't re-use it? If I use super glue, will it be easily removable for future repairs?
  13. Well, I did the repair, and it came out virtually invisible. Thank you all for your help! Next question - what kind of glue to use for the bone tip? David
  14. here's a photo of the crack: