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Barry J. Griffiths

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Everything posted by Barry J. Griffiths

  1. If it’s at all possible I would look for a gold mounted bow with a gold tip plate. Gold at both ends of the stick would encourage better balance. Getting a bow with a gold tip plate would make the trip through Customs a lot easier than if the bow had an ivory tip.
  2. A violin came into my shop the other day and it was fitted with a ‘harp’ style tailpiece. I’ve always set up violins using the 1/6 afterlength principle. So my question is: 1/6 from the bridge to the tailpiece but WHICH STRING? Is there any kind of norm or standard that can be applied to one of these beautiful but puzzling contraptions?
  3. There was an old thread referencing lining clamps that Oded Kishony made and used. Look through old posts from Oded and see if you can find the link. The clamps were simply made from PVC tubes cut into rings and the ring was then cut to allow opening by hand, placing the clamp over the rib and lining and then releasing.
  4. Which book? I have the smaller volume from the exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  5. Let’s look on the bright side: at least he’s not an eye surgeon.
  6. “Having this cleaned” is the question. Do you want to clean it yourself or have it done by a qualified repair person?
  7. If the frog mortise allows room for it you could put a rectangular piece of lead under the frog block. You could also use a heavier gauge of wire for the winding. I once needed more weight at the frog end and substituted a sliver slide instead of ebony, with an abalone facing.
  8. I’ve been getting mine from Gatchell Violins (Chinese). They fit in more tailpieces than some of the German made ones. They work very well, are easy to install and improve the sound of not only the E string but the other strings as well.
  9. I was thinking that the five to the left were for pints and the one on the right is for half pints.
  10. Hi Brad, Can you please guide me to Jacob’s post about fingerboard glueing? Thanks very much.
  11. I’d check the flatness of both surfaces. If they’re hollow you can get a false impression that they are making good contact but might just be fitting along the edges. Backlight them and check with a straightedge.
  12. I’m voting for the leather theory too.
  13. I’d like to see a photo of the side of the neck where it meets the pegbox, under the nut.
  14. If you know how many violins you have, you don’t have enough.
  15. I use parallel jaw, flat ground pliers. The parallel nature of the gripping surfaces tend not to ‘pinch’ the endbutton but apply a more uniform amount of pressure. I also use them with added padding to remove stuck ferrules from bow frogs.
  16. As luck would have it I just ran out of Everclear. There are now two versions. The original recipe is 190 proof (95% alcohol) and another, less potent 151 proof (75% alcohol). I also found a new brand made here in Kentucky which is 190 proof and was $13 or $14 for a 750ml bottle. It’s sold as Clear Spring from Red Bull Co. in Bardstown, KY.
  17. I don’t know what Californians are using but I switched to Everclear. It’s 190 proof grain alcohol (95% alcohol). It costs more than denatured because of all the taxes that get added on to the price since it’s drinkable.
  18. It’s hard to tell where this dot is located on the stick. It could possibly be a filled in hole from where a wire winding was glued into the stick.
  19. From the symptoms you describe and the smaller size of the violin I would take a look at the string distance between the bridge and tailpiece. Sometimes a shorter tailpiece can get the after-length corrected. No major surgery and, if you don’t like the results the whole thing can be easily reversed.
  20. I was cleaning up my workbench (always a dangerous thing) and I rediscovered this violin soundpost from years ago. Overall length of 50mm, width at the ends 6-6.25mm, and width in the middle 4.0mm. I have no idea who made it or what violin it was from. Clean cut ends and very narrow grain (spruce).
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