Urban Luthier

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Everything posted by Urban Luthier

  1. did sound better after you dug it up?
  2. This has been my problem as well. To make matters worse, in the summer it is very humid in Southern Ontario and dust that settles on tools is hydroscopic and can cause rust spots very quickly. I'm in the habit of removing the blades and cleaning every tool I use at the end of the day
  3. I have an old General 15" bandsaw in the garage and the dust port is in the lower left on the front cage (lower left side of the bottom wheel). This seems to be the optimal place (on this saw at least) to extract dust.
  4. I installed a 20 in box fan with furnace filter. Good enough to move around for tasks that kick up dust and small enough to stick behind the door when not in use. This combined with a good shop vac should be all I need. This festool dust extractor looks really nice for dealing with small scale stuff. Expensive!
  5. Great idea - one of those robo vacs wold get very confused in my shop! almost no floor space
  6. Like Ken I've been having sinus trouble from the dust kicked up from planing and sawing. A better N95 respirator has done wonders. A combo of a good shop vac, portable help filter and window fan may do it for me.
  7. thanks everyone! Box Fan is a good idea and cheep -- could be hooked up to a timer also. I looked at the Festool products, thanks for the tip. They seem to be more for capturing dust at the source from power tools. Well made but expensive I like the idea of the overhead units as they seem to have quite deep filters. Any issue with putting it on a self on its side as long as there is free space around it?
  8. I have a very small shop 8 x 8ft with ceiling height of 6.5 ft! I don't have any power tools in the shop but I do most rib re sawing and flatting by hand. Saws and toothing blades kick up a moderate amount of dust. I'm looking for an efficient way to filter dust. I came across a compact air filtration system on Amazon. I can't mount it on the ceiling because of hight but I could put it on its side on an open self with enough clearance Any experience with these? Other suggestions? Thanks in advance Chris
  9. cool looking form. curious to see how it works for you
  10. It has been a while since I posted, but a PM from Jim motivated me to take some photos of current work. I started a cello based on the Davidov / Gore booth. I drew it up by hand based on Roger's poster. (There is a photo of the Gore booth with the belly off the body which was useful as well). The form is two 18mm baltic birch plywood sheets laminated together - I was inspired by a from by Michael Koeberling posted in his bench. This was a lot of work to make but it is quite light weight and easy to maneuver. I don't have a bandsaw capable of re-sawing cello rib stock so I ripped 3mm pieces by hand using a Japanese Ryoba saw. Great saw, tracks well but this was a lot of work. The cello wood I have is attractive enough but certainly not stellar. Still it should serve well for this project
  11. Humm good point David, never actually thought about that. I can say I used one of these on my last instrument and I had no issues at all with dust. In fact this is the only instrument I've mad where i didn't have to polish the top coat to get rid of dust zits. Next time I set it up i'll test for static and report back
  12. checked Pollens - strad forms book. Quite a range! The cello form Upper block is 117mm wide and the lower is 120mm The Violoncello piccolo is Upper 95mm and lower 80mm and the VDG form has a lower block of 95mm
  13. Wow what an impressive cabinet!! I wish I had the space to build and store something like this. For those reading this thread looking for ideas of their own cabinet, i'll repeat the oft recommended grow tent. Cheap, easy to use and collapsable for those who don't have a ton of space.
  14. I ordered from Rivolta as well. Good communication. It it rather frustrating that I had to go to Italy to get my willow. None (i mean none) of the local lumber yards -- even the ones that cater instrument makers cary properly milled willow.
  15. Hi Jim for what it is worth i used 108mm in the upper and 110mm in the lower. Why? because that's the aprox measurement in the Sacconi drawing of his B form reconstruction. I wouldn't go any wider as it is hard to find good willow from luthier suppliers that is milled more than 115mm. Figure i can always trim them back if need be.
  16. So why didn't Strad think of that? Perhaps he did? My theory is that he scaled up a long pattern violin (the CV design was done around the same time as the long form violins were being made). Then later modified the CV form by flatting the curves of the top and bottom to give a slightly more boxy look we see in the MacDonald and Cassiveti, Paganini Who knows what the strad shop would have come up with if they actually redesigned the viola form in the golden period. I did a quick scale of a golden period Strad violin in a CAD app and came up with UB 193 Middle 132 and LB 242 on a 413mm body. Quite a bit different than the CV form!
  17. Interesting to chart the progression of Strads violas -- The Mahler is an outlier -- the only one of its kind we know of. The CV form followed and the early violas on this form -- the Archinto in the RAM and the Tuscan in the Library of congress are a little longer (and rounder at the top and bottom than the later violas like the Cassevetti and MacDonald. It is possible the CV form was cut down at a later point (flattened a few mm at the top and bottom block). Here is an overlay of the Archinto outline from the Strad poster and Addies tracing of the CV form --
  18. stunning to see it in person (but you have to go to Florence and skip by the David Good photos in the B&G strad varnish book and the S&Z Tuscan violin book
  19. I don't believe there are any soloists around today that could afford a Strad Viola. Peter Schidlof seem to do just fine on the MacDonald and (although he had troubles to begin with) Antoine Tamesit sounds just fantastic with the Mahler.