Urban Luthier

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Everything posted by Urban Luthier

  1. http://www.baroquemaster.de/saitenhalter.htm. These are practical working examples of fingerboards and tail pieces, but not from any specific instrument. I wouldn't make a tailpiece out of spruce however - even with the ebony veneer it may not be strong enough
  2. All joking aside, Jeffrey is actually our moderator not the site owner. The business owners of the Maestronet forum and servers are based in Toronto. Sadly if Maestronet closes shop (which I don't think it will any time soon as it is an easy source of income for the owners) Jeffrey's posts will disappear along with everyone else
  3. I think this is a serious matter. Our hosts (based here in Toronto) could decide to close up shop at any time (not that I think they will as the site provides a ongoing income with comparatively little investment). But if they do decide to turn the servers off all the info here will be removed from the public domain. This is one of the reasons why I helped pull together the Bass book -- this important IP now exists in a shareable form that will endure. But there are countless posts from knowledgeable contributors that will disappear if and when the site closes.
  4. Agree with Julian above. They are expensive but the results are predictable. I've used 2 & 3 on the list Joe Robson Eugene Holtier Alchemist mediums
  5. Roger H and Bertrand Bellin made 5 string cellos but i think they were full size. Cant seem to find any info however...
  6. There is a very nice book called The baroque cello Revival by Paul Laird that lays some of this out. It is kind of an oral history with interviews from key players (including Mark who posted above) The bass violin refers to the early cellos (e.g. Amati King, Strad Medici etc) meant for bass accompaniment in early music. There are many early music recordings out there that feature copies of the Servais strad as for the Violoncello piccolo - Bach used it in 9 cantatas - inc bwv 41 - there are recordings out there that use the Fleming Amat, Jackson notes above. You can hear what it sounds like here
  7. I use two 3 overhead lights for general lighting, 2 bench mounted lamps from IKEA -$10 each! these are the old ones with the on off on the lamp shade -- these are much more useable than the new ones which have the on off on the cord. I don't do re-touching, but I have an OTTLITE with a full spectrum CFD bulb for times when I need to see accurate colours
  8. I think the UK is very lucky to have so many talented makers working today.
  9. Just added a small Miele vacuum as the last piece of my shop dust management system. It may seem like an odd choice for a shop but it is perfect for general clean up of dust and debris that doesn't get captured in the box fan filter or swept up. It has plenty of power, a floor attachment, hepa filter etc. And it take bags which means i dont have to deal with allergy attacks when cleaning a shop vac. It also super quite. This unit was an end of the line model so it cost only margnaly more than a small shop vac
  10. did sound better after you dug it up?
  11. This has been my problem as well. To make matters worse, in the summer it is very humid in Southern Ontario and dust that settles on tools is hydroscopic and can cause rust spots very quickly. I'm in the habit of removing the blades and cleaning every tool I use at the end of the day
  12. I have an old General 15" bandsaw in the garage and the dust port is in the lower left on the front cage (lower left side of the bottom wheel). This seems to be the optimal place (on this saw at least) to extract dust.
  13. I installed a 20 in box fan with furnace filter. Good enough to move around for tasks that kick up dust and small enough to stick behind the door when not in use. This combined with a good shop vac should be all I need. This festool dust extractor looks really nice for dealing with small scale stuff. Expensive!
  14. Great idea - one of those robo vacs wold get very confused in my shop! almost no floor space
  15. Like Ken I've been having sinus trouble from the dust kicked up from planing and sawing. A better N95 respirator has done wonders. A combo of a good shop vac, portable help filter and window fan may do it for me.
  16. thanks everyone! Box Fan is a good idea and cheep -- could be hooked up to a timer also. I looked at the Festool products, thanks for the tip. They seem to be more for capturing dust at the source from power tools. Well made but expensive I like the idea of the overhead units as they seem to have quite deep filters. Any issue with putting it on a self on its side as long as there is free space around it?
  17. I have a very small shop 8 x 8ft with ceiling height of 6.5 ft! I don't have any power tools in the shop but I do most rib re sawing and flatting by hand. Saws and toothing blades kick up a moderate amount of dust. I'm looking for an efficient way to filter dust. I came across a compact air filtration system on Amazon. I can't mount it on the ceiling because of hight but I could put it on its side on an open self with enough clearance Any experience with these? Other suggestions? Thanks in advance Chris
  18. cool looking form. curious to see how it works for you
  19. It has been a while since I posted, but a PM from Jim motivated me to take some photos of current work. I started a cello based on the Davidov / Gore booth. I drew it up by hand based on Roger's poster. (There is a photo of the Gore booth with the belly off the body which was useful as well). The form is two 18mm baltic birch plywood sheets laminated together - I was inspired by a from by Michael Koeberling posted in his bench. This was a lot of work to make but it is quite light weight and easy to maneuver. I don't have a bandsaw capable of re-sawing cello rib stock so I ripped 3mm pieces by hand using a Japanese Ryoba saw. Great saw, tracks well but this was a lot of work. The cello wood I have is attractive enough but certainly not stellar. Still it should serve well for this project