Urban Luthier

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Everything posted by Urban Luthier

  1. Roger -- this is very kind of you to do this for the community. I absolutely love the subtle faceted texture you've left in the scroll. Jeffrey -- Would it be too much to ask to pin this thread?
  2. I also recommend Andreas Pahler. I've dealt with him a few times. He is willing to help out small makers with personal service. He deals good product, and ships it fast with the right documents. in this case you do get what you pay for
  3. The pattern does look very natural -- very immersive -- especially considering it was your first attempt. The challenge I see is the fissures and cracks appear razor sharp -- perhaps it is the photo. On the old instruments i've seen the cracks appear softer (due to natural abrasion or polishing perhaps?) this must take a ton of patience to do! (for me just making an instrument is hard enough right now -- I can't imagine antiquing!)
  4. the late David Rubio as a photo essay on his site about setting the neck before the the the top is attached. http://www.rubioviolins.com/
  5. I second the Pollen's book. It is really well thought out and includes info beyond just the violin family. Two aspects of the book require critical filtering -- 1) his views on 'The Messiah' are out of step with other experts 2) the varnish chapter - i personally found the research presented by Brandmair/Greiner more convincing
  6. yes you can clearly see the slightly waxy look in the photos -- very pleasing appearance
  7. Very interesting Ben! I assume the alcohol evaporates as the varnish dries. Does the shellac bond chemically with the oil varnish?
  8. i wouldn't put anything shiny or slippery on your bench. Polymerized linseed oil or Tung oil is a good bet. Some don't use any finish and simply finish the surface with a fine toothing plane -- this will give you a bit of grip. Also if you have 3/4 in holes in your bench you can use Holdfasts by Gramercy Tools. I have two of these and I use them all the time! While we are on the topic of benches -- this dude makes a mean bench inspired by Roubo
  9. Many Strads and del Gesu's tapper from the upper block to the neck only. Does the taper have to do with the baroque construction method? Something to do with clearance for the fingerboard wedge? I believe Roger Hargrave has written about this. Sacconi may have as well? Perhaps makers with experience making baroque instruments could comment
  10. if you use tin as a mordant when making madder lake wont this give it an orange colour?
  11. Stad library use to have a poster
  12. uh yuck on the ox bile... while we are on the topic of gross things... Is saliva used as a cleaning agent in violin restoration? Saliva is commonly used in the restoration of pictures
  13. LOL -- funny I red cow urine from cows fed mango leaves may have been an ingredient in 'indian yellow' pigment! -- Joe is this fact or fiction?
  14. My POV is the only secrets in this business are skill and experience. Mr Burgess for example could tell me all his 'secrets' -- doesn't mean I could actually utilize them. and as noted above -- the is a wealth of industry information that has been shared here -- and that's a good thing.
  15. those Fein shop vacs look very cook Oded. I'm embarrassed to say that my shop is so small I don't have room for a normal sized shop vac! One thing i was thinking of was adding a tool tray to my bench with a movable hatch. By putting a trash can under the hatch one could sweep shavings and dust on the bench into the tool tray and then directly into the can. In theory this might reduce the amount of airborne stuff. Someone posted a picture of a vintage bench like this a while back but I cant remember who -- might have been Melvin Chris
  16. Arash I feel your pain regarding the issue of dust. I'm an amateur and making violins in a domestic environment and this can be tricky. Working with hand tools minimized dust but normal hand tool operations still generate a lot of dust. Lee valley has a filter you can attach to the back of a fan. Never tried it but it is something that may work in a domestic environment. Regarding number 3, as David notes there are many professionals and very talented amateurs who post here. Each has their own expertise and value to add. Good luck Chris
  17. A Scrub plane will remove wood fast but I also find them awkward. The long-handled gouges from Diefenbacher work well for me but if they were a little larger that would help. There was a great article in the Strad a while back on how Juliet Barker removes wood fast -- we could all learn a few things from her I bet!
  18. You know what I love about these threads is the pictures! Eventually someone in the know who has access to the good stuff posts tasty pictures of lovely Cremonese for us to admire!
  19. Warning. I dealt with one supplier years ago in Romania. My first order went ok. So I placed a second order. Both were paid in advance by bank draft. The vendor insisted my 2nd order was packaged and ready to ship but always had some excuse why it would take a few more weeks. I contacted him weekly for almost a year and simply gave up because he stopped responding. He stole my money. The vendors name was Nenita Marius contact info below. S.C.SEGOVIASON SRL MIHAI VITEAZU 6,AP.28 J 26/1673/04 R 16870803 545400 SIGHISOARA ,MURES 0040745865322 Country ROMANIA
  20. i think the market changed quite a bit during Strad's long life time where the average buyer shifted from the nobel and wealthy patrons more toward jobbing musicians towards the middle of the 1700s. One could argue the shift in cliental had an impact on the instruments themselves
  21. Exactly. So what. I started the thread in the first place because I admire the artistic sensitivity and skill of contemporary makers who are able to make pristine finished instruments look every bit as alluring as a good 'antiqued' or historical instrument (at least to my eye). A darn hard thing to do. I wanted to learn more about the creative process these makers went though -- in that regard a special thank-you to Hans, Kelvin and many others who shared their views. Chris
  22. Lee valley now sells honing plates and diamond paste. Haven't tried it. I've simplified my sharpening routine: Soft arkansas to hone the burr, black arkansas to refine, a leather strop to polish and then back to work. I use soapy water as a cutting fluid on the arkansas whetstones. This is the most convenient, fastest and cleanest method I've tried.
  23. i did a drawing based on Denis article provided with the Strad 3D project and it turned out nicely -- but it isn't a perfect fit for the Titian! A word of caution about using outlines of the Strad forms to make modern instruments -- I have virtually all the Strad magazine posters and the Pollens book -- I like to compare the outline of the posters with the forms in Pollen's book when the posters come out -- you know what -- while you can say this instrument generally fits that form -- none of them fit perfectly. Unless you are making an instrument following Cremonese working methods -- i.e. making a violin in the baroque manner, you will not get a Cremonese looking outline using the strad forms and corner outlines! Why? -- read Hargrave's del Gesu book carefully -- especially how the corners are scribed on the blocks and how the outline is taken after the rib garland has been removed.