Urban Luthier

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Posts posted by Urban Luthier

  1. Even though this is a very old thread it is worth pointing out that Clive Morris cellos are used by many highly regarded cellists who specialize in early music. The Royal Academy of Music has several Morris cellos used by students. In addition to Susan who posted above, David Watkin played a Morris cello - you can see and hear it here (along with the actual Fleming Amati Susan's cello is based on)


  2. 37 minutes ago, Mike_Danielson said:

    Nathan is correct--you want both sides to be defect-free.  From a fracture mechanics standpoint, any defects can initiate a crack during the bending or in later years when the side is subjected to a blow.  The engineering science gives a clear answer.


    Mike D

    Yep I found out the hard way. I finished the inside of my cello ribs with a toothing blade set to take the finest cut.

  3. 3 hours ago, Nestorvass said:

    I know they are but I am a student in university so no job and thus I can't afford them. So i have to stick with one of these two unfortunately

    I do understand. I had a heck of a time with cashflow when I was a student. That said one can easily put in another 100 dollars setting up a vintage plane if it needs work and the blade needed replacing. A veritas or Lie Nielsen block plane will last a lifetime (the low angled version with a regular blade and toothing blade) One can always bevel the blade for a steeper angle if needed.




  4. I started out using a scraper to do this but found that i used too much pressure which resulted a rather ugly curve leading into the edge crown. Kind of like a  flattened curve that didn't blend with the rest of the recurve

    I now try to do as much as I can with a razor sharp gouge (stropping every couple of minutes). Sometime additional pressure on the tip of the gouge helps me, some times coming at an angle helps. 

    Final clean up with a sharp scraper and light pressure. 

    the hardest thing is getting the scraper razor sharp -- which i confess I still have trouble doing

  5. 2 hours ago, David Burgess said:

    Urban Luthier, would you be willing to post a link to those task lamps? In my experience, Ikea makes at least some products which are not only very durable, but amazingly well engineered.

    Currently, I keep a lot of my old task lamps around for replacement parts, but that isn't my first joy.

    Hi David

    I can't find the link to the exact ones I bought -- they were in the 'now or never' bin at $9 CND each - (about $2 US after exchange).  

    @tsummerville posted the a link to the US site for the IKEA TERTIAL work lamp above. I've seen these - they look similar to mine but the key difference is the on off switch on the new version is a rocker type on the cord itself. I think this is a real disadvantage from a usability standpoint. The version i have has the switch on the lamp itself - similar to your lamp.

    The IKEA ones are well made from stamped metal parts, real springs - and mine at least have a real ceramic bulb holder. The bushings are plastic however -- I've only ever had to tighten them once. The plastic mounting bracket is useless. -- The Lee valley lamp bushing is far better option for a bench top mount.


  6. On 1/25/2020 at 4:00 PM, David Burgess said:

    Thanks for the photo and the reference to the bulbs. I'm going to try these

    I adopted a similar setup for my shop - two overhead lights (same sort of fixture as yours but from IKEA) and two IKEA task lamps on either side of the bench a-fixed with these handy lamp bushing from Lee valley. Plus a central ceiling light

    When I built the studio - I wired things so I could turn the main overhead light and overhead bench lights on/off independently. The IKEA bench lamps are the old style ones with the switch on the top of the lamp. (these are much better as you turn them on as grab them). So all lighting adjustments are within arms reach of my bench and can be adjusted based on the task at hand.


  7. Some times we get so hung up on the weirdest stuff. I have a hell of a time telling the difference between violins (most sound similar to me with the biggest difference being the person playing the instrument). Violas and cellos are a different story.

    I've made a few violas after the Strad Archinto (which had its ribs lowered unfortunately). in all cases I used normal or higher than normal rib heights - no loss of focus or dynamics - if anything they sound better. 

  8. Hi Mike,

    Likely free for non commercial use for some time to come. Licensing options here. PM me if you'd like more local colour. I'm ex ADSK (actually started at Alias).

    I've played with Fusion since the very beginning - Fab tool. But I will say (and Mike and Don will confirm) the effort for setting up a digital fab shop is extraordinary if you don't have a background in machinery and software. Much harder than working by hand!