Urban Luthier

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Everything posted by Urban Luthier

  1. I do understand. I had a heck of a time with cashflow when I was a student. That said one can easily put in another 100 dollars setting up a vintage plane if it needs work and the blade needed replacing. A veritas or Lie Nielsen block plane will last a lifetime (the low angled version with a regular blade and toothing blade) One can always bevel the blade for a steeper angle if needed.
  2. The high angled version of the Veritas standard block plane is a good investment and will last a life time. Very easy to setup and fine tune. The blade and sole come dead flat. The plane has real heft to it https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/47881-veritas-standard-and-low-angle-block-planes
  3. Thanks Davide and David. Lee valley sells Bahco scrapers. I'm going to try sharpening to a knife edge and rolling over the edge per your workflow David. I can get my scrapers sharp and use them effectively but it takes way longer than it should
  4. Hi David. How thick are your knife edge scrapers if you don't mind me asking?
  5. I started out using a scraper to do this but found that i used too much pressure which resulted a rather ugly curve leading into the edge crown. Kind of like a flattened curve that didn't blend with the rest of the recurve I now try to do as much as I can with a razor sharp gouge (stropping every couple of minutes). Sometime additional pressure on the tip of the gouge helps me, some times coming at an angle helps. Final clean up with a sharp scraper and light pressure. the hardest thing is getting the scraper razor sharp -- which i confess I still have trouble doing
  6. Very useful info, thank you David. The colour rendering index information in particular is net new to me. While I don't do any restoration work, I do varnish In my studio. I expect my IKEA Led bulbs are not the best solution for judging colour balance
  7. Thanks. it looks like the bulbs are 2700K - closer to halogen bulbs perhaps?
  8. Hi David I can't find the link to the exact ones I bought -- they were in the 'now or never' bin at $9 CND each - (about $2 US after exchange). @tsummerville posted the a link to the US site for the IKEA TERTIAL work lamp above. I've seen these - they look similar to mine but the key difference is the on off switch on the new version is a rocker type on the cord itself. I think this is a real disadvantage from a usability standpoint. The version i have has the switch on the lamp itself - similar to your lamp. The IKEA ones are well made from stamped metal parts, real springs - and mine at least have a real ceramic bulb holder. The bushings are plastic however -- I've only ever had to tighten them once. The plastic mounting bracket is useless. -- The Lee valley lamp bushing is far better option for a bench top mount. Chris
  9. Thanks for the photo and the reference to the bulbs. I'm going to try these I adopted a similar setup for my shop - two overhead lights (same sort of fixture as yours but from IKEA) and two IKEA task lamps on either side of the bench a-fixed with these handy lamp bushing from Lee valley. Plus a central ceiling light When I built the studio - I wired things so I could turn the main overhead light and overhead bench lights on/off independently. The IKEA bench lamps are the old style ones with the switch on the top of the lamp. (these are much better as you turn them on as grab them). So all lighting adjustments are within arms reach of my bench and can be adjusted based on the task at hand.
  10. Some times we get so hung up on the weirdest stuff. I have a hell of a time telling the difference between violins (most sound similar to me with the biggest difference being the person playing the instrument). Violas and cellos are a different story. I've made a few violas after the Strad Archinto (which had its ribs lowered unfortunately). in all cases I used normal or higher than normal rib heights - no loss of focus or dynamics - if anything they sound better.
  11. Hi Mike, Likely free for non commercial use for some time to come. Licensing options here. PM me if you'd like more local colour. I'm ex ADSK (actually started at Alias). I've played with Fusion since the very beginning - Fab tool. But I will say (and Mike and Don will confirm) the effort for setting up a digital fab shop is extraordinary if you don't have a background in machinery and software. Much harder than working by hand! Chris
  12. yea it takes forever to grind back a damaged blade on the Tormek. I haven't figured out how to polish with Tormek leather wheel. Don't know why but I find i wind up dubbing the bevel edge of gouges. I Keep a leather strop and Lee Valley Wooden Sharpening Slips on the bench and touch up every few min.
  13. Would you be able to share the STL file?
  14. + 1. Thanks for the warning - I was looking at one of these as well
  15. Thanks for posting HoGo. Where did you get the CT scan of the Kreisler?
  16. I know this is a really old thread but it is worth noting that there is 1:1 ct scan of the rib garland on the Plowden poster. That will give you the most accurate outline. It also shows where the blocks were placed and their dimensions.
  17. always a good day when you post Christian! Stunning work
  18. nice to see the 'nursery' shots mike! very cool
  19. wondering how many of you use what some woodworkers call the 'ruler trick' when sharpening plane blades? i.e. honing the face of the blade by placing a thin ruler at the opposite end of the stone so only the very edge of the blade is honed.
  20. The one disadvantage of the PMV11, is that one really needs to monitor the edge while you work. The PMV-11 stays sharper loner than anything I've tried. I frequently use the tools with these blades longer than I should - even to the point when the edge starts to fail. At this point it is back to the grind stone.
  21. all of the home-made honing jigs above look really cool. The best investment I've made (and the most painful one) is to learn how to sharpen everything freehand. With a bit of effort i'm now able to get results as good as i used when using jigs, the benefit is that I can work much more quickly. Like John and Jim i use the Tormek jigs for grinding.
  22. Konrad Sauer (A plane maker friend of mine) uses O1 Hock blades. I have a couple of his planes and I can get the blades sharper than anything else I've tried. The A2 blades in my Lie Nielsen's (scrub and 102) seem to be more durable and stay sharper longer than the Lee valley A2 equivalent. I now only use A2 for high angle toothing blades. I use the Veritas PMV-11 in my LV planes now. PMV-11 seems to be the Goldilocks blade - I can get it quite sharp (not as sharp as the hock for some reason) and they stay sharper for longer than anything else i've tried.
  23. When doing this joint i also bevel the ribs very slightly by a half a degree or so. That way the outside face of the two ribs buts together tightly when glued. No matter what one does, in a hundred years joint will separate slightly anyway!
  24. Useful info here on the size and shape of baroque bass bars. See toward the end of the article https://www.roger-hargrave.de/PDF/ViolinMaking/Fitting_a_Bass_Bar.pdf