Urban Luthier

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Everything posted by Urban Luthier

  1. nice shop! Varnish magnifications look stunning
  2. Yep. John is spot on. You have a couple of options - build your own CNC system or send your files to a fabrication service. the former is expensive unless you are doing vast quantities. As for the later, your per unit cost will be more than buying a white violin from China.
  3. Very cool thanks for sharing Carl! funny to see these as a 3D print. I'm sure they will work just fine. On my wooden originals, I've glued a thin strip of cork on the face that goes against the belly. Also helps to plane the bass bar on a slight angle to allow better contact with the clamps
  4. You are correct. This is an issue with Fusion without a doubt. I've seen it happen when importing drawings as well. The scale factor is off. I really don't know why they havent fixed this!
  5. I open the Betts STL in Fusion to much around with it. word of caution the file is huge and difficult to manipulate. there is an error on import (it comes in 10 x the correct side) -- you need to scale the model to .1 i'm playing around with sectioning it so one could print different parts -- scroll, plates etc. if you want to play around with it in Fusion you'll need to enable the mesh tools in the preferences dialog. Then select Mesh --> modify --> plane cut
  6. One thing that we all need to be mindful of is that printing with resins (even with professional 3d printers) isn't as accurate as we'd like it to be. I've seen as much as .3 mm errors. Scrollavezza & Zanre hoped to provide a 3D printed plates with their excellent 'tuscan Stradivarius' publication (made from the CT scans). After several attempts, they weren't able to achieve the accuracy they were looking for.
  7. Nice! From the long bass book thread (also posted earlier here). Slow and low 130-150 degrees C. ~70% reduction. Takes about a week.
  8. So if you haven't guessed, I'm a fan of Autodesk Fusion. It is the best kept secret in CAD. Free to use if you sign up as an enthusiast. Great modelling and drawing tools. Very easy to export to CAM. I love to model in 3d but the funny thing is I still wind up making all my tools and figures by hand!
  9. 3D model inspired by a 50mm Norris casting I have. I think it would cost more to print this in bronze that it would to purchase an antique plane! It was a fun modelling exercise. Norris 50mm violin plane flat sole v1 v1.f3d
  10. Cam lever clamps that can be used in a Guy Rabut style violin cradle. Violin Cam Lever v4.f3d Violin Cam Lever v4.f3d
  11. I posted this awhile back -- here is a Fusion and IGES file for printing a bass bar clamp. I made the 3d model from a set of clamps I made ages ago (made from walnut offcuts). I used them just last night to install a bass bar. Bass Bar Clamp v1.f3d Bass Bar Clamp v1.iges
  12. If you want the Harley look you'll need to go with the anglepoise chrome!
  13. Also worth noting that the traditional 'anglepoise lamp' is the most user friendly lamp out there - the articulation is smooth and it can be positioned in virtually any angle. Not inexpensive however
  14. I use this one. (actually two - clamped directly to either side of my bench) they are even more economical than the one you note above. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40372871/?query=TERTIAL
  15. Nice poplar back Christian. Is that a viola? Love to hear how you make out with the Creative Amber varnish. I've never heard of it. hard to tell from their website but is this basically like the Gary Bease amber varnish?
  16. I'm with E, I've used AllBack as well
  17. Lots of detail on PMV-11 here http://www.pm-v11.com/Home.aspx
  18. Good question. I dont know off the top of my head. I have a white paper somewhere that Lee Vally published -- they did a ton of research -- I'll try and dig it out I use a Tormek grinder which runs cool. Some Lee Valley blades don't have parallel sides all the way through so lining them up in a grinding gig can be a bit tricky.
  19. A2 stays sharper longer than O1. A2 can fail miserably (edge chipping or pits). O1 gets sharper but wares more quickly. As John says PMV11 is fantastic. Not just saying that because I'm Canadian -- the lee valley / veritas blades are excellent. It gets almost as sharp as the best O1 or old steel and stays sharp much longer that A2.