Urban Luthier

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  1. yea it takes forever to grind back a damaged blade on the Tormek. I haven't figured out how to polish with Tormek leather wheel. Don't know why but I find i wind up dubbing the bevel edge of gouges. I Keep a leather strop and Lee Valley Wooden Sharpening Slips on the bench and touch up every few min.
  2. Would you be able to share the STL file?
  3. + 1. Thanks for the warning - I was looking at one of these as well
  4. Thanks for posting HoGo. Where did you get the CT scan of the Kreisler?
  5. I know this is a really old thread but it is worth noting that there is 1:1 ct scan of the rib garland on the Plowden poster. That will give you the most accurate outline. It also shows where the blocks were placed and their dimensions.
  6. always a good day when you post Christian! Stunning work
  7. nice to see the 'nursery' shots mike! very cool
  8. wondering how many of you use what some woodworkers call the 'ruler trick' when sharpening plane blades? i.e. honing the face of the blade by placing a thin ruler at the opposite end of the stone so only the very edge of the blade is honed.
  9. The one disadvantage of the PMV11, is that one really needs to monitor the edge while you work. The PMV-11 stays sharper loner than anything I've tried. I frequently use the tools with these blades longer than I should - even to the point when the edge starts to fail. At this point it is back to the grind stone.
  10. all of the home-made honing jigs above look really cool. The best investment I've made (and the most painful one) is to learn how to sharpen everything freehand. With a bit of effort i'm now able to get results as good as i used when using jigs, the benefit is that I can work much more quickly. Like John and Jim i use the Tormek jigs for grinding.
  11. Konrad Sauer (A plane maker friend of mine) uses O1 Hock blades. I have a couple of his planes and I can get the blades sharper than anything else I've tried. The A2 blades in my Lie Nielsen's (scrub and 102) seem to be more durable and stay sharper longer than the Lee valley A2 equivalent. I now only use A2 for high angle toothing blades. I use the Veritas PMV-11 in my LV planes now. PMV-11 seems to be the Goldilocks blade - I can get it quite sharp (not as sharp as the hock for some reason) and they stay sharper for longer than anything else i've tried.
  12. When doing this joint i also bevel the ribs very slightly by a half a degree or so. That way the outside face of the two ribs buts together tightly when glued. No matter what one does, in a hundred years joint will separate slightly anyway!
  13. Useful info here on the size and shape of baroque bass bars. See toward the end of the article https://www.roger-hargrave.de/PDF/ViolinMaking/Fitting_a_Bass_Bar.pdf
  14. Yes this is what i was referring to above. The CT data is super accurate! However S&Z were unable to produce an + - .3mm accurate resin based copy from the data (they were using an additive fabrication process with resin not CNC). When I spoke to Andrea, he wasn't 100% satisfied with the results and decided to cancel the 3d print option originally offered with the book. It is too bad -- even at these tolerances, I would have been happy. It is near impossible for amateurs to get a hold of plaster casts for study purposes.
  15. Trouble with 3d printing from CT scans (CT->STL) is the accuracy of the resin print. S&Z ran into issues with this with the Tuscan Strad publication. They simply couldn't get the accuracy they were looking for + - .3mm was considered too great a margin of error.