Urban Luthier

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  1. nice article here. https://www.roger-hargrave.de/Seiten/english/Bibliothek/Bibliothek.htm
  2. Hopfully it will stand the test of time like the Castelbarco Strad cello. Over 300 years old with not a single crack in the ribs!
  3. Any idea how to identify a pice of poplar by looking at it? I'm curious about the piece I posted above. As for the ribs, I may have enough thickness in the wedge for the ribs, if not I'll look for some nice beech.
  4. Geez Conor that's nuts. Nice for a flat piece of furniture but I couldn't imagine bending or carving this stuff. The poplar I have (pictured above) is halfway between quarter and slab - the light figure has a sort of quilted look. it reminds me a little of the cello you posted awhile back.
  5. Here are mine - cheep, cheerful, easy to use. I made mine out of walnut. I even did a 3d file for folks to print their own
  6. I've seen one of these in action and it is impressive. You can read more about the Yates on Konrad's blog http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/2011/12/magnificent.html
  7. i agree I have this one as well and don't use it at all
  8. Squirrel tail planes from Lee Valley - big mouths great for hogging; http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=57205&cat=1,230,41182 and an upscale flat sole plan for finer work http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=76910&cat=1,230,41182,48942. Tighter mouth. The machining on this one is exceptional! One can buy all of them for less than the cost of the Bennedeto planes noted above
  9. Agree bandsaw as well. Great for the most labour intensive tasks like re-sawing. I don't bother with a bandsaw for cutting out plates etc - i use a bow saw now. The time it takes to switch the bandsaw and set it up, i can have the plates sawn out by hand.
  10. One of the biggest challenges of jointing is getting both edges to mate perfectly. If you do them one at a time, edge up in a vice, there is a tendency to twist to the right on the start of the stroke and twist to the left on the end of the stroke (if you are right handed that is). If you are having trouble with the centre joint, one trick is to plane both edges together. That way any irregularity or twist will be canceled out when you place the two edges together for gluing. Joiners have used this workflow for for centuries! other thing to note is to ensure you plane is sharp and the blade is straight (i.e. no camber). Once you get it perfect, glue it right away! With a bit of practice it is possible to get a perfect joint. I routinely have to use a 5 x loupe on spruce tops to see where my centre join is.
  11. I know this is an old thread but i was wondering if anyone has made a cello off of Sacconi's reconstruction of the cello b-form as posted above. Based on Joe's comments, it appears to differ slightly from Roger's Davidov drawing (lower part of the centre bouts are lower in the Davidov)