Brad Dorsey

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About Brad Dorsey

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  • Location
    New Hampshire, USA
  • Interests
    Irish music

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  1. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Yes, that's what we're talking about. I don't think there's any functional reason for this concavity. The only reason for it is to eliminate the "itty-bitty variation of width in the edge of the fingerboard" for visual aesthetics.
  2. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Right. If you hold a straight edge lengthwise along the neck/fingerboard joint of a typical violin neck, you will see that the side of the neck/fingerboard assembly curves inward, i.e., there's a gap between the straight edge and the neck.
  3. Violin neck (side) concavity

    They're talking about concave. Concave is the opposite of convex. It's normal for the sides of a violin neck, where the fingerboard is glued to it, to be concave lengthwise.
  4. old violin for ID

    I don't know about the 1/4s but the full size ones definitely vary in quality. I have a quite nice one.
  5. old violin for ID

    I thought that the rib corner miters were centered in BOB construction. The miter shown close-up here (third photo) is toward the C-bout side, which I thought indicated an inside mold.
  6. Mirecourt?

    I often see cleated back center joints in Mirecourt violins. I also think that German end blocks tend to be rounded, not flattened as seen in your pictures.
  7. Older bow for ID

  8. Humidifying an instrument in a closed case

    The answer to both questions depends on the humidity level in the room.
  9. French Bow ID

    Your latest picture makes it harder -- not easier -- to tell if the button is silver or nickel for two reasons: 1. Cleaning the tarnish off of bow fittings makes it harder to distinguish silver from nickel -- not easier. This is because the two metals look a lot more different from each other when they are tarnished than when they are buffed. 2. And a better view of the button would be straight-on from the side, as in your second picture, not at an oblique angle, as in your latest. I am not one to ask if the rest of the bow looks French. I don't really know. The frog mountings are definitely silver.
  10. French Bow ID

    The frog is silver mounted, but the button is nickel mounted with a German-style collar. Unless the stick and frog are were made by an extremely sought-after maker, which I think is unlikely, this bow is junk.
  11. turtle shell frog bows

    Have you ever averted seizure of your bow(s) by showing its (their) papers?
  12. Bow I/D - help required

    I had the same thought, but the screw heads are smaller in the Chinese bows that I see.
  13. mini lathe recommendation for making buttons

    I have been cutting the collar ("indent") with a form tool that I ground for this specific purpose. This tool is mounted rigidly in a tool holder, and it is moved by turning the cross slide and compound rest handles. But I understand that some bow makers cut the collar free hand with a hand-held generic cutting tool. I've been meaning to try this.
  14. Bow ID - Flared frog

    This is a cheap German bow - nickel mounted and not Pernambuco. I see bows with wide frogs like this occasionally. I consider them to be an evolutionary dead end in bow design.
  15. mini lathe recommendation for making buttons

    I use one.