Joe Swenson

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About Joe Swenson

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  • Birthday 07/20/1955

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    https://www.facebook.com/JSwensonViolins/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Livermore, CA
  • Interests
    Trail Running, Music, Lutherie

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  1. Sorry for the confusion. I should have posted the original drawing instead of my template version. Here is the full drawing to scale and a couple showing the dimensions.
  2. I like that idea about winding something around the nipple. The good thing is the bow even with the crack was still pretty stable and rigid. The crack was relatively difficult to open up for gluing. The bow owner is aware of the damage and I asked the shop owner to recommend to the bow owner that he take it to a bow repair shop to have a collar installed. I confirmed with the shop they wanted to proceed with the repair in spite of not being able to install the collar. But I totally understand and agree with your concern. Thanks all for the input! Cheers, Joe
  3. I actually am trading some of this work for Cello rental for my grand daughter to whom I am giving lessons! She is 10 and loves it (so far). Life is good! Joe
  4. Thanks for the observation. Good point on the saddle. Yes it is quite tight. Yes I agree with you one the also on the crack repair. I had no illusion of getting the edges to line up doing any form of external repair. I was more just interested in stabilizing the cracks. But You're probably right and I'll just leave them to the next owner. Since the shop just wants to sell it "as is". I think the bass bar crack has already been fix once but it has grown since then. I'll pass along the info on the auction sites and discuss with him the issue of selling a violin that needs repair. Thanks again for your input. Cheers, Joe
  5. Unfortunate I don't have a lathe to make my own tool. On my wish list. That and with access to a milling machine, I could make almost anything. The bow owner was fine with the extent of the repairs - minus the support ring. There should be no stress on the crack unless the bow is dropped again. Which is probably how it broke in the first place... The crack was pretty safe to begin with and the bow still quite strong, as it took a bit of pressure to separate the seam enough to get the glue permeating the crack. I suggested, if he wanted the bushing installed, to take it to a bow repair shop. Once glued (with cyanocrylate) and wrapped with string to clamp, the crack is almost invisible. The eyelet repair also went very well. Did a test drill on a piece of ebony with 7/64" drill bit and could firmly screw in the new eyelet. So enlarging the eyelet hole by 0.2 mm was really simple. I only had to then narrow the eyelet "box" by 0.15 mm clean out the channel slightly for a nice slip fit. All that is left now is to rehair the bow. Thanks for the help! Joe
  6. Is this carbon fiber ring hidden in a cut slot like the repair in the link I posted? Thanks, Joe
  7. Thanks for the response. A ring to support the glued crack makes sense. I found this example which requires a special cutter which I don't have to recess the ring. http://www.fineviolinbows.com/Repair-blindring.htm In the absence of the proper bushing channel cutter tool. Would you recommend just gluing the crack as well as the remaining eyelet repair and referring them to a bow maker to get a bushing installed? Thanks, Joe
  8. Got a bow in for repair and re-hair from the local music shop. The wood of the bow I just discovered is cracked and the eyelet, which is slightly undersized has such thin walls that it does not hold when tensioning the bow hair. An new eyelet of the correct thread will not tread into the frog because the stem is also undersized by 0.2 mm. Easy enough (yes?) to drill out the frog to the right dimension for the new eyelet. A 7/64 drill bit worked well on a tes piece of ebony. But the width of the new eyelet needs to be filed down to fit the bow slow but at least 0.2 mm. Depth is OK so I can leave the height if the eyelet alone which is where the old eyelet failed. So my main question is is the bow crack an issue that needs to be addressed any other way that gluing with hide glue? Or would you use white glue? The store told me this was a $600 bow. I am reminded of the Pink Panther when Inspector Clouseau destroys this grand piano and the butler reminds him that is a "Priceless Steinway"... and Clouseau responds "Not any more"...
  9. Sorry for the late response which is my way lately. Thanks so much for all the good advice! I appreciate the time you took to provide your insights and perspectives. It will help me going forward with this customer. We've talked again and discussed all the repairs the instrument "needs" and come to an agreement as to what he wants done. He doesn't want the top removed and the cracks addressed. He just wants a violin he can sell for a couple hundred dollars. So minimal repairs. I'm just going to shim the neck and make it playable again. New bridge and sound post. The cracks are pretty stable for now and don't "buzz" at all. I may try to work some hide glue into the cracks to help stabilize them. Tried to do some manual external alignment of the main new crack ans its not moving easily so I'll just leave it alone aside from a little hide glue on the exposed edge. Thanks again. As always Maestronet has the answers! CHeers, Joe
  10. Thanks for the replies. Yes I should have explained this is a rental instrument for the store. So he wants enough done to make it playable. The bass bar "crack" seems like it has been repaired a while back in the bridge area as the crack edges are worn. It seems to have grown since then and new adjacent cracks developed. It seems to be a decent instrument. Top is fairly thin, and has a nice sound and responds well when handling the instrument. Top is fairly thin, which is probably part of the reason for so many cracks. Soundpost may need replacement. The fingerboard projection is about 4 mm too low (@23 mm) and it needs the bridge replaced. Someone at some point took it and stripped most of the varnish off the instrument. You can still feel the sticky surface of the remaining varnish and ground coat that is left. In addition to bare spots of wood in places. Yeah so the total work needed to be done on this is more than cracks. I'd think $500 is probably fair. It probably a $500 violin when its done. Joe
  11. Take top off. Repair 3 - 4 cracks. Not sure what the bass bar crack will involve. Removing bass bar. Fixing crack. Replacing bass bar? I'd opt for minimal repair path for that which would mean leaving in bass bar if possible. Then Replace top. Joe
  12. Hi all. Been long time. Getting back into "things" again including repairs for the local music store. They have an old Amati style violin they need repaired, if its worth it. I'm just getting started with them and need to get some idea what to charge them. The top has what looks like a major bass bar crack, as well as other cracks on the bass side and one nearer the center. I'm afraid taking the top off will cause further damage. Any advice is appreciated... Cheers! Joe
  13. Skipping to #4.. Preparing to glue the top plate. Next step was to check the rib alignment and glue in cross supports to hold the ribs at the proper dimensions for gluing on the top plate. One side of the ribs aligns nicely while the other side is sprung out a little. Easily lined up with a push of the finger. Need to line up and clamp both sides then attach some cross pieces to stabilize the ribs dimensions for gluing. My local friend who is also a Luthier (for much longer than I have been) leaves the ribs on the form when gluing on his first plate - in his case the back plate. I will do the top plate first allowing me to clamp the neck much more securely before gluing on the back plate. Cross diagonal strips provide additional stability and strength. The whole center section can still move as a unit. So by lining up and clamping one side, the other side can be unclamped and glued with the alignment being correct. Alignment looks quite good now. Ready to set up the clamps and get ready to glue.