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About DarylG

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  1. I've had loose pips cause buzzing. If the pegs have collars they likely have pips too.
  2. In a sealed container the relative humidity will go up as the temperature goes down, and the relative humidity outside during a snowstorm is likely going to be pretty high. My experience is that cold temperatures by themselves rarely cause issues and people often shoot themselves in the foot trying to protect their instruments from the cold. The biggest concern I would have would be the humidity in the shop when the power comes back on and you're heating the shop back up.
  3. Claudio Rampini described a "quick" method for making linoxyn a while back. Here is the link: https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/317231-time-to-make-varnish/
  4. The end of the neck that faces the bridge. I also put a small chamfer on the bottom edge of this face to give a place for excess glue to go.
  5. In addition to the good advice already given, don't forget to glue size the end grain of the heel.
  6. Davide Sora has some videos on youtube that show him varnishing with spirit varnish. If you haven't already, I'd suggest checking them out. Oil varnish will be easier to apply in even coats but has its own challenges. Unfortunately, there are no easy roads to varnish happiness.
  7. Agreed, but I do think that it's fairly plain to see that the soundpost area of the top is much lighter than the wear areas in the upper and lower bouts. I think there can be quite a lot of color on top of the wood in the "bare" areas of old violins (and antiqued new ones). Just my two cents.
  8. Christoph Gotting has a nice photograph of the Gibson Strad during restoration on his website that I think highlights what David is saying. http://www.gotting-violins.com/goetting-gibson-huberman.php
  9. Hi Michael! It's a very nice violin and difficult to understand why it wouldn't get past the first round. Cheers,
  10. I started making my first violin using his books back when I was in college. That was the beginning of what would become a life long passion for me. Rest in peace Mr. Strobel.
  11. Same thing happens to me, except it's on all the strings!
  12. I've been using the method David Burgess posted above for violin plates and it works really well. However, I cut the ends of the wedges flush with the plate and use 2 F-clamps instead. After gluing, the wedges allow me to clamp the plate in my vise and flatten the bottom. Also, before gluing I run the halves thru the bandsaw so that the wedges are cut parallel with the bottom face. This allows the plate to sit flat on the workbench after gluing which is nice when sawing and shaping the outline. Thanks David!
  13. Hi all! There is a guy on youtube that has tested a bunch of different glues, including some hide glues. He doesn't mention the glue to water ratios he used but nonetheless I found it quite interesting. Link to the results video: https://youtu.be/ZoaTZY5cSQE Link to a spreadsheet of the raw data. If you click the tabs at the bottom it will have the results sorted for the different tests. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GAZrhrtJPi8-iqPRVfqgOgf7RTg8Vqmen6OKJ4Ae6_I/edit?usp=sharing
  14. I've not seen them but Glasser is making carbon composite violins now.