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Brad H

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Everything posted by Brad H

  1. I have both and use the straight reamer 95% of the time. I feel like I have less control with the spiral, possibly because I haven't taken the time to become familiar with it - it does seem aggressive, as others have mentioned. I use it when I need to hog out some wood, e.g. new end button... And then usually finish with the straight reamer.
  2. 2.If the top arch is as low as it appears in the side view pics, you might ask your luthier whether that patented bar is doing its job of helping support the top. I wonder whether this Szymanski made any other internal modifications. What is the overstand measurement? Your luthier might be able to tell you whether a neck reset/lift (raising the overstand and the projection) could benefit the instrument.
  3. Hi, The typical GSB coffin case has little value - maybe $10 - $20. Some fiddlers like to tart these up - especially the interiors which are rather unforgiving to a violin's health - and use them. Crafts people may buy them for decoration and I have heard of people turning them into mini-shelves.
  4. Your choices are rather limiting. As long as no one is advocating that every sloppily, hastily, and crudely finished violin interior deserves historical preservation....
  5. The tension depends on the mass, not the diameter of the string. (and string length affects the tension, too)
  6. Are there signs of the top sinking on the bass side? If so, you might mention this to the owner and see whether he would pay for a new, stronger bar. Maybe he would also be willing to pay for the neck reset and the seam repair? By the way, what is the neck overstand measurement?
  7. In my opinion, that isn't the only example of inflated prices in these listings.
  8. Then there are round cleats such as in this presumably French violin (with the photocopied Bailly label).
  9. I ordered and will be receiving the violin FB template next week. You can put me down as a "probably" for the cello template.
  10. Ahhh....the ol' dime under the sound post trick. No, sorry, I have never heard of it, and wonder whether it might have been a stopgap measure which was just left in place. Assuming the coins used were current, that would at least be one way to date violins.
  11. How are you accurately measuring from the center of the post? Typically this measurement is done from the back of the bridge foot to the front of the post, often with a business card (Image from SW Strings).
  12. I have only listened to a couple of the new violins and randomly chose #2 to compare with the "old". To my ears, the old is sweeter but #2 is more powerful with more dynamic range. I prefer #2 for this piece.
  13. This doesn't make sense to me. If you are describing a violin's tone, you can describe what is present and what isn't, but I don't understand how the lack of one characteristic should result in ignoring a trait that is present. How about "lovely, warm tone but lacking in brilliance"?
  14. Like another commenter above, they make more sense to me when considered as ends of a spectrum: Clean vs Muddy/Fuzzy Complex/Rich vs Thin? (is complex the same as rich?) Resonant vs Tinny Open vs Nasal Smooth/velvety vs Harsh/Raspy Dark vs Bright Ringing vs Dull I have used "round" to describe a violin but not sure I can adequately explain what that means....but I think I know it when I hear it.
  15. Brad H

    C bouts width

    I will expand FiddleDoug's "etc".... Current bridge height? Current String height of E and G above board, Vertical height above body of top of FB at G and E string position, i.e., is the neck/ FB tilted? Overstand height, FB projection at bridge. Mother's maiden name and Exact street address of your 1984 residence...
  16. This link may will give you some background info on each wood, albeit from the perspective of guitar fretboards. https://www.dawsons.co.uk/blog/which-fretboard-wood-should-i-choose Here is a chart of the densities of various woods: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-density-d_40.html
  17. That is pretty wild. It is difficult to be sure, but the big "Papa" bar looks to be glued in based on perceived grain differences with the top.
  18. If he was a real person, he made all his fiddles in 1921
  19. This looks to be a nicer model than the $3kish retail HEH that I had....but, yes, madness.
  20. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Heinrich-E-Heberlein-Jr-Markneukirchen-1921-German-Violin-NO-RESERVE/133662614310?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  21. I haven't read the entire thread but the comments I have seen have all been facetious. Titanium washers, I assume to lighten the load... Another solution which derives from a similar- but much more misguided - principle as the integral bass bar, would be to carve the post from each plate. The half-height posts from each plate - one of spruce and one of maple - would then be joined together in some fashion as the top was glued on.
  22. Brad H

    The Local Hacks

    Perhaps there is a local forum in which parents could be educated about this racket. Maybe the local youth orchestra websites would be willing to publish an informational blurb to warn parents. Or, the honest teachers could advertise their unwillingness to take kickbacks on their websites. The honest violin shops could do something similar. One would hope that education and awareness would reduce the problem. By the way, I have only had one teacher ask for a kickback, although I think I have may have pre-empted some similar requests by other teachers by stating my position on this practice early on in an instrument trial process.
  23. I suppose my sarcastic post might lead some astray - I will amend it to make this clear.
  24. You can always just drive a thin nail down through the top into the post, like this. I was going to adjust the post on this repair - it was in for something else - and decided the post was just fine where it was. Please note that this was a sarcastic suggestion - don't do this.
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