Brad H

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    So. Oregon

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  1. Sorry, but the expression of "a fool and his money...." comes quickly to mind after seeing the pictures and the price. Truth takes another hit. Here is the astonishing Ebay listing - Stradivarius Fine Blah blah blah - with a BIN of $8000! If you read the listing, you too can learn that:: Rehek, don't throw away your money, time, and jeopardize your violin interests - contact a reputable shop or dealer and let them help you.
  2. Assuming that it is an inexpensive cello and not worth a neck reset.....fudging a bit here and there can help. Normally, the differential bridge foot heights are done during bridge installation - there may not be enough wood now on the feet to tilt the bridge with this method. The other trick is to offset the string slots on the bridge so the strings are closer to the center of the board and the feet can stay closer to the optimum position. Of course, the best advice is to get it to a luthier and get his advice
  3. To me, it would depend on your anticipated use of the cello - keeper or resale? You might ask your luthier if there is any indication of top sinkage.
  4. Are you chalk-fitting the bar? By the way, reading this how-to on bass bars couldn't hurt.
  5. No, not a good idea. Why risk damage to the top? Why not order a new bar (or 2?) from a supplier? International Violins can probably help you out.
  6. By the way, what is the height of that bar in the middle?
  7. I know that if I went to all the work of a new cello build, that bar would bug me... Even on a violin, I use 3 cleats on the inside and 2 on the outside of the bar, and the cleats fit fairly tightly to the bar so that the orientation of the bar is always the same every time it is put in place. As you are fitting the bar, do you press down on top of the bar in various locations in order to make sure that the bar always maintains the same orientation to the ribs? If you press down in one location and the bar has a different tilt than when pressing down in other locations, the bottom of the bar doesn't fit.
  8. Wow, that is sad news. Jacob seemed to embody the best aspects of luthiery and seemed dedicated to serving the musicians in his community. When I reached out privately for help with neck angles and neck resets, he was very generous with his time and advice. In addition to all the technical info he imparted, I will forever remember the advice he gave concerning my reluctance to stay on top of tool sharpening. Here are Jacob's words in 2011. It takes some self-discipline to spend the time preparing these jigs and to devise and use an efficient sharpening system. However, you need to experience the painlessness of subsequent procedures only a few times to get to the point where you will regard this as part of the job, instead of preparing for the job. You will quickly realize that very many procedures you considered difficult before becomes a mere doddle. He will be missed.
  9. Hmmm...Evahs are not a particularly warm string. Check out this chart: Shar String Chart So, if Evahs make your violin sound warm, you don't have many choices unless you want to increase the warmth. It really sounds like you should stick with what you like. Otherwise, your experiments with strings might end up costing more than the Evahs. If you do want to experiment, you could try Vision Solo, or Infeld Blue, but you won't be saving too much money. Otherwise, throw on the Helicores and try to get used to them?
  10. Hmmm....perhaps you are referring to Coors and Budweiser? Try some Pacific NW brews. Besides the staples like Sierra Nevada and Deschutes breweries, there are thousands of microbreweries.
  11. Brad H

    Lucky Buy?

    Re: Julius Heberlein, I had a Pollmanini (back of scroll stamp) with a pencil inscription on the underside of the top, , “ Julius Heberlein, Geigenmacher, Markneukirchen, Saschen, 1891" Based on the ones I have seen and had, H.E. Heberleins, can be quite nice with expected retail in the $2k-$4k range. I have seen some poorer quality ones on Ebay.
  12. I have several violins that could be twins with the OP's violin. On mine, the scroll shield is inscribed with "Artist Violin", and there is an 8-point star stamped on the back button. Inside the star, two letters are stamped...not sure, but they might be KG? The fingerboards on these all have a central spine on the underside. I found the following description on this site, which may or not be the company which "produced" these: Glaesel and Mossner - 1873 - Markneukirchen - many models: Artist, Conservatory, Grand Concert, Grand Solo, Imperial, Paganini. Shield with model name on back of scroll. Some with carved heads or or portraits on back. Trade bows stamped "Tourte" or others. Some labels have G & M logo which is an eight pointed star with G&M in the center.
  13. Brad H

    Dominant e

    I only use the Dominant steel E on an occasional inexpensive violin. The Dominant wound E and tin-plated E work on some step-up instruments, but I use a non-Dominant E on roughly 90% of my violins. My only complaint with Goldbrokat is that the winding on the peg end is so short that the final wraps around the peg are bare metal which can dig into less dense pegs.
  14. I have a faux flame Czech violin with flames painted on inside where it is easily visible.
  15. "'Tis but thy name that is my enemy; Thou art thyself, though not a Montague. What's Montague? It is nor hand, nor foot, Nor arm, nor face, nor any other part Belonging to a man. O, be some other name! What's in a name? That which we call a rose By any other name would smell as sweet; So Romeo would, were he not Romeo call'd,"