Brad H

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    So. Oregon

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  1. Brad H

    Vas ist Das?

    OK, since I am more interested in how, when, and where it was made than how it was, when, and where was it made? And, which features point to that information? Thank you all for any enlightenment. When you consider that, back in the late 1800's/early 1900's, America was a "new" country for many of its citizens, people who were most likely trying to get established and/or survive.....hey, at least we bought em'.
  2. Brad H

    Rondo D strings

    No, but I have only used several sets. Where are they breaking?
  3. Brad H

    Vas ist Das?

    I will admit that I have not been a very diligent student of all the ID lessons on MN. Here are some more pics. I would guess German ca. 1900 - 1910. But, other than that....? What do you think?
  4. Brad H

    Vas ist Das?

    Yes, probably foolish to ask about a label, especially with indications of a previous label that has been removed. I hope to get some more pics of the violin up in a bit.
  5. Brad H

    Vas ist Das?

    Does this label mean anything to anyone? I understand the Ges:Gesch means "patented". My focus is on what is inside the triangle.
  6. Thanks, I'll get some and give it a try. By the way, I tried carbon paper but really couldn't pick up much, if any, on the bar.
  7. I have already cleaned up the area under the previous bar as much as I care to (don't want to go any thinner) and have still not removed all the old glue that sunk into the wood. Are there any tricks to use when chalk will not adhere to the surface?
  8. These instruments weren't set up and tops were removed because of other issues. A previous violin with thin areas near upper block sounded grainy. I am mainly trying to prevent tonal and structural issues. Thanks for the replies.
  9. In several batches of auction instruments I have received four instruments with very thin top thicknesses around and in front of the top and bottom blocks - 1.8 - 2.2mm. In one case, I will need to double the edges. But, for others, should I try to reinforce these areas? How would you do it?
  10. Brad H

    Opening a violin

    Make sure to regularly clean and polish the surface of the blade to reduce friction. It also helps to periodically rub some dry soap on the blade surface for the same reason. Usually, I have best results when I work from neck to bottom block direction on the bass side and from bottom block to neck on the treble side. I don't use any water; the alcohol drops almost always You may need to drill out locating pins on bottom block and cut through them on top block. At the upper block, make sure you release the table/neck joint. When I have all released except the top block, I will sometimes lift the plate and, using an eye dropper, aim some alcohol drops right on the table/block interface (helps to have already used the knife to get a slight opening.... make sure no alcohol makes its way to outside (varnish)). The process is always an opportunity to curse or praise the luthier who most recently closed the box.
  11. Brad H

    Fur Ball

    I am not sure where I picked up the term, "dust bunny" for these "creatures". The round ones can really pick up some speed inside a violin. The first time I caught a brief glimpse through the f-hole of this furry object zipping around, I thought it was alive. I feel obliged to admire the perfectly round ones. .Lint, dust, hair, fabric threads and who knows what else, all coalesced into perfect spheres reminds me of the formation of planetary spheres.
  12. Are there any setup adjustments to get more oomph from cello D strings?
  13. Perhaps he should . find another luthier who is willing to make the necessary measurements and procure the correct bridge. But, yes, the bridge widths provided by suppliers are the distance between the outsides of the bridge feet.
  14. Nice story, Edi. I agree that I could have had the repair done by now by popping the top (and I have done that for similar rib repairs), but the goal is also to develop an economical repair method for future cases. Great line!