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  1. I found several unopened packs of Sandvik ”sandplate”, and have been comparing it to modern options. Stew-Mac released something called “shark skin” in 2018. Seems a bit pricey but looks decent. they have a nice YouTube video about it. My favorite has been “Perma-Grit” sold by MicroMark. (and upon research it’s sold by many places including eBay) It’s very similar to ”sandplate” but made with tungsten carbide Abrasive. and I really like it a lot. microMark has it in varying sizes and options on their webpage. It’s pretty cheap and it’s great. You will find several YouTube video
  2. I have corresponded through email with Mr. Darnton a few times over several years now about various making subjects.... He's been so helpful and promptly gone totally out of his way to answer my questions and paint a clear picture. I'm just some random guy, and if he took that much time with me I can only imagine what one would take away from a few weeks under his teaching. I would give my left arm to go to a course this summer, but after building a new shop this year it's just not in the cards. But I have already started planning for next summer. I can't wait,… I would highly recommend th
  3. These gouges are meant for finer work so they may be ok to go higher than 62. However that is where I shall start. I assume that it will be very satisfactory and I will be pleased with the amount of time they stay sharp. I have always used rc62 in all of the chisles, knives, and infill planes I made. It seams that hardness isn't that crucial to a point. Sharp fixes a lot of pesky and over discussed issues such as material, hardness, angle, secondary bevels and so on. Everyone has a different idea of what really sharp is. I have a very nice microscope that I have used to define what It takes to
  4. Well after some experimentation, I could follow my own instructions and make a complete set of gouges for around $30. This includes purchasing the carbon steel, handle material, and the impact sockets to make all the needed radii. I'm going to edit the first post in this thread and give a step-by-step. The point of the project was to take a little time and money to figure out a way to make this work. It wasn't as easy as I thought it would be, but after everything said and done it worked out well. I was able to achieve a Rockwell of 62 on the two dollar hardware store carbon steel blades wi
  5. So far this is what I have. Four out of the five gouges formed out of carbon steel blades. I will shape the last one tomorrow, and the set will be complete. So far The process is to anneal the hacksaw blades, dress them flat and remove the teeth, I form them, sanded them by hand starting with 400 grit and then switching over to 100 grit. Followed by some metal polish. This bright chrome like finish will allow me to see the color change while heat treating very well. Once the final gouge is complete I will heat treat the set, and then repolish everything. I will then grind the edges and home.
  6. I RESPECTFULLY do not agree. I have worked and studied metal for several years. I don't know everything about all metals.... but I do know an awful lot about a select few. 1095 and its cousins are very easy to harden and temper by sight. I have TWO Rockwell testing machines and have tempered hundreds of pieces by site and verified by testing and retesting. I grew up a knife makers son and forged my first Damascus billet at 12, designed and completed my first stock removal knife at age 10, and always helped my dad with knife batches as a younger child. This by NO MEANS makes me an expert. Ho
  7. What type would you suggest? Keep in mind I'm trying to keep this easy for someone who doesn't have the ability to jump online and purchase high-grade flat stock.
  8. Well so far the bandsaw blade spark Tested, snap, and Rockwell tested for carbon steel. Seems to be 1095 or something similar. I'm going to go ahead and make The larger Gouges out of this because I feel it's easy enough for the common person to get a hold of. However I'm also going to make a set of 5 to 7 scroll gouges of carbon steel hacksaw blades. I'm just going to use sweep numbers 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and then maybe bullnose chisel or something similar. I think that will be a good beginner set for scroll carving gouges, and be a lot easier for someone to figure out. I think after this tutoria
  9. Man that's great thanks for the offer! I'm trying to decide where to take this project now. The scrap bandsaw Blade I picked up seems to be bimetal high-speed steel teath and softer backing.... It's perfect at 1 inch wide, I clamped seven blanks together and ground the teeth off flat. It seems to Harden well, so I'm super tempted to just make them out of these. Should be easy enough for the common person to order off-line by the foot very inexpensive. The whole point of this project was for me to bang my head against the wall for a while so that new luthiers wouldn't have to. I was hoping
  10. I have a metal supply house with three dumpsters full of bandsaw blades ranging from 1/16 of an inch wide to 4 inches wide. I picked out some scrap today and it seems to be high carbon steel. It's so hard I can't cut it with a hacksaw blade, but I'm going to possibly grind out some gouges from it and then harden and temper it properly. However this defeats my oprocess which is easy for the common interested luthier
  11. Well I'm wicked pissed. I've spent all day driving around it two metal supply houses looking for 3/4" to 1" wide high carbon steel under .05 thick.... Dammit this is hard to find. I ended up buying some feeler gauge stock as well as some carbon steel band saw blades that are 1 inch wide. However they are BOTH hardened. And annealing the stuff is impossible. It is so thin and loses heat so quickly that it hardens itself in the air without any agitation. I have no problem slapping a piece of 1095 hi Carmen on the flat grinder to get exactly what I want,....but I really wanted to document a go
  12. Ran into a little bit of an issue. I have a few gouges that are wider than .5" and common hacksaw blades only go up to that size. Therefore I've been looking for another easy source of carbon steel flat stock in the .025 to .050 range. Pretty hard to find unless you want to purchase 200 feet. Any ideas? I tried reciprocating saw blades but carbon steel ones are impossible to find these days. I also purchased a very cheap handsaw from the local hardware store that is carbon steel. However it is the air hardening and needs to be cooled over the period of 24 hours to reach a softness that is work
  13. Found something very interesting cruising the web. These are stainless fruit carving tools.... would make great scroll tools. Maybe a bit of wood around the center for grip. They would be for the pencil grip position of course.
  14. Got a few more pieces of wood that I will hopefully be able to dry out and stabilize. Here's my preliminary drying method. I just use a regular fan, and some containers to captur and recirculate the air where I want it. I decreased them from an average of 85 grams per piece to around 20g in 48 hours. I will bake them for a few hours and then put them back At the fan for a few more days. Then it's time to stabilize them. I may even try to rough shape and them now on the (before stabilizing) because Once they are stabilized it's like working concrete