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HullGuitars

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  1. I found several unopened packs of Sandvik ”sandplate”, and have been comparing it to modern options. Stew-Mac released something called “shark skin” in 2018. Seems a bit pricey but looks decent. they have a nice YouTube video about it. My favorite has been “Perma-Grit” sold by MicroMark. (and upon research it’s sold by many places including eBay) It’s very similar to ”sandplate” but made with tungsten carbide Abrasive. and I really like it a lot. microMark has it in varying sizes and options on their webpage. It’s pretty cheap and it’s great. You will find several YouTube videos regarding permagrit tools, adhesive backed sheets, and varius uses. They even make rotary attachments! Theres a very helpful video about cleaning tgw permagrit to make it like new. I’ve had wood glue, epoxy, and various clogs on my permagrit. Soaked in lacquer thinner overnight… And it’s like brand new! It’s made by brazing tungsten carbide shards onto the substrate. Much different than the other brands. Who use perforations or textured sheet. I highly suggest if you don’t receive the free catalog from microMark… Go to their website RIGHT NOW!!! And request one. You’ll get one every month or so… You will find COUNTLESS SOLUTIONS to problems you weren’t aware of! I constantly discover products and ideas that solve big problems in my shop. Most of the time, I don’t order from them because the price can be high. But I see a solution or product, and source it from somewhere cheaper or make it myself. I must have two dozen items that are constantly used. All products seem in their catalog, and sourced elsewhere, or made myself. From workshop organization to work holding solutions. Truly a wonderful resource. They are one of the biggest suppliers for model makers, hobbyist, and all types of Hollywood professionals… who are involved in the prop making and special-effects industry. it’s a catalog catered to that industry, and meant to solve mystery problems, that arise in the movie making industry. Truly the coolest catalog I receive! I am sorry to ramble. Hope someone finds this useful.
  2. I have corresponded through email with Mr. Darnton a few times over several years now about various making subjects.... He's been so helpful and promptly gone totally out of his way to answer my questions and paint a clear picture. I'm just some random guy, and if he took that much time with me I can only imagine what one would take away from a few weeks under his teaching. I would give my left arm to go to a course this summer, but after building a new shop this year it's just not in the cards. But I have already started planning for next summer. I can't wait,… I would highly recommend that someone go to his course or any other course with a plan. Bring things you want to work on, write down all your questions ahead of time. And by all means be totally prepared for your one-on-one sessions. Honestly I would leave the making questions out and go mostly for history and personal experience. Having someone like him or Mr. Hargrave to answer any question my heart desire… It would most definitely be about their personal history and experience... or history of the luthrie craft. Sure tips on making will help you become a better Luthier, but history and personal experience of someone who is truly talented… That will give you long-lasting Motivation and understanding of the craft. Don't waste it
  3. These gouges are meant for finer work so they may be ok to go higher than 62. However that is where I shall start. I assume that it will be very satisfactory and I will be pleased with the amount of time they stay sharp. I have always used rc62 in all of the chisles, knives, and infill planes I made. It seams that hardness isn't that crucial to a point. Sharp fixes a lot of pesky and over discussed issues such as material, hardness, angle, secondary bevels and so on. Everyone has a different idea of what really sharp is. I have a very nice microscope that I have used to define what It takes to get something laser sharp.... (without all the crazy gizmos and hyped up "methods") I do the best I can and get it laser sharp..... then the tool takes over. I had the time to heat treat and re-polish the tools today. I honed them and set them aside. I will be stabilizing the wood sometime this week, and then turning the handles. I'm ready to put them to work! Im also making a set of 3 finger planes out of thick copper tubing. Basically just copper ibex copies. I'll have about $20 and 8 hours in all three.... and will write a how to thread on the process for those who cant afford 3 new ibex planes I wish to make them themselves. I was surprised how easy it is to make them this way. I have casted many, as well as made many violin sized infill's.... but this is an easier way to make much needed tools.
  4. Well after some experimentation, I could follow my own instructions and make a complete set of gouges for around $30. This includes purchasing the carbon steel, handle material, and the impact sockets to make all the needed radii. I'm going to edit the first post in this thread and give a step-by-step. The point of the project was to take a little time and money to figure out a way to make this work. It wasn't as easy as I thought it would be, but after everything said and done it worked out well. I was able to achieve a Rockwell of 62 on the two dollar hardware store carbon steel blades with nothing but a blowtorch. I was also able to make a complete set with nothing but a four dollar batch of extra long impact socket drivers. I guess there's two way someone could go about this. They could purchase their material, and handles from the hardware store. Or they could order the ideal material and purchase a nice 1.5 inch Cocobolo dowel off-line and still only have about $45-$50 in the project. Once I figured it out I can now make a set of five gouges in about two hours. They're not beautiful but they will last many years. I've got a buddy that's built a few fiddles with subpar tooling, and I'm going to give these tools a nice new home
  5. So far this is what I have. Four out of the five gouges formed out of carbon steel blades. I will shape the last one tomorrow, and the set will be complete. So far The process is to anneal the hacksaw blades, dress them flat and remove the teeth, I form them, sanded them by hand starting with 400 grit and then switching over to 100 grit. Followed by some metal polish. This bright chrome like finish will allow me to see the color change while heat treating very well. Once the final gouge is complete I will heat treat the set, and then repolish everything. I will then grind the edges and home. The wood stabilizing will be complete within the week and the handles will be installed. I'm taking the handle design out of Roubo's book of plates
  6. I RESPECTFULLY do not agree. I have worked and studied metal for several years. I don't know everything about all metals.... but I do know an awful lot about a select few. 1095 and its cousins are very easy to harden and temper by sight. I have TWO Rockwell testing machines and have tempered hundreds of pieces by site and verified by testing and retesting. I grew up a knife makers son and forged my first Damascus billet at 12, designed and completed my first stock removal knife at age 10, and always helped my dad with knife batches as a younger child. This by NO MEANS makes me an expert. However I have had two decades of working with high carbon steels exclusively. I can harden and temper 100 blades in a row with nothing but a store bought map torch, and test 98% of them at the desired hardness plus or minus 2 points. I have forged more mortise chisels and socket chisels than I can count... however I haven't worked with steel this thin. It losses heat extremely fast, however I have finally annealed it successfully. This thread was meant to show my experimentation... and arrive at a usable method. I believe that I can present an avenue where new luthiers can make a set of 5 tools that will preform 90% of gouge work..... using only carbon hacksaw blades, a few common tools, and a bit of time. This wasn't meant to forge gouges which compete with factory tools. Although I do have the tooling and ability to do so.
  7. What type would you suggest? Keep in mind I'm trying to keep this easy for someone who doesn't have the ability to jump online and purchase high-grade flat stock.
  8. Well so far the bandsaw blade spark Tested, snap, and Rockwell tested for carbon steel. Seems to be 1095 or something similar. I'm going to go ahead and make The larger Gouges out of this because I feel it's easy enough for the common person to get a hold of. However I'm also going to make a set of 5 to 7 scroll gouges of carbon steel hacksaw blades. I'm just going to use sweep numbers 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and then maybe bullnose chisel or something similar. I think that will be a good beginner set for scroll carving gouges, and be a lot easier for someone to figure out. I think after this tutorial I can outline the process and make it very easy and clear. Probably start a new thread for that so it's easy to be found
  9. Man that's great thanks for the offer! I'm trying to decide where to take this project now. The scrap bandsaw Blade I picked up seems to be bimetal high-speed steel teath and softer backing.... It's perfect at 1 inch wide, I clamped seven blanks together and ground the teeth off flat. It seems to Harden well, so I'm super tempted to just make them out of these. Should be easy enough for the common person to order off-line by the foot very inexpensive. The whole point of this project was for me to bang my head against the wall for a while so that new luthiers wouldn't have to. I was hoping to find something super economical and easy. I still think hacksaw blades ranging in sweep from 1 to 9 would get the job done. You can clearly see in the last photo that the bandsaw blades have what looks like a welded seam. So I'm assuming they are bimetal which means the backing is probably mild steel. Probably wouldn't make good gouges. I'm getting pissed off
  10. I have a metal supply house with three dumpsters full of bandsaw blades ranging from 1/16 of an inch wide to 4 inches wide. I picked out some scrap today and it seems to be high carbon steel. It's so hard I can't cut it with a hacksaw blade, but I'm going to possibly grind out some gouges from it and then harden and temper it properly. However this defeats my oprocess which is easy for the common interested luthier
  11. Well I'm wicked pissed. I've spent all day driving around it two metal supply houses looking for 3/4" to 1" wide high carbon steel under .05 thick.... Dammit this is hard to find. I ended up buying some feeler gauge stock as well as some carbon steel band saw blades that are 1 inch wide. However they are BOTH hardened. And annealing the stuff is impossible. It is so thin and loses heat so quickly that it hardens itself in the air without any agitation. I have no problem slapping a piece of 1095 hi Carmen on the flat grinder to get exactly what I want,....but I really wanted to document a gouge making process that is not only easy for the common individual with a little tooling… But very inexpensive and only takes a few hours. Now I am contemplating making 1/2 inch wide gouges ranging in sweep from 1 to nine, and I think this will be all you need for violin making except maybe one or two bigger gouges for roughing.
  12. Ran into a little bit of an issue. I have a few gouges that are wider than .5" and common hacksaw blades only go up to that size. Therefore I've been looking for another easy source of carbon steel flat stock in the .025 to .050 range. Pretty hard to find unless you want to purchase 200 feet. Any ideas? I tried reciprocating saw blades but carbon steel ones are impossible to find these days. I also purchased a very cheap handsaw from the local hardware store that is carbon steel. However it is the air hardening and needs to be cooled over the period of 24 hours to reach a softness that is workable..... Even though I have a furnace I'm not taking the time to do that that's ridiculous. Also this is kind of about finding a cheap and easy way for the common person to make their own gouges with as little tools as possible, using very cheap and commonly found materials. I did however successfully make three of the gouges this evening. I annealed them, cut them to length, marked and filed them to the proper widths, and stropped them on some sandpaper (while stuck to a Percision flat block) so that they have a very good surface finish and are perfectly flat.
  13. Found something very interesting cruising the web. These are stainless fruit carving tools.... would make great scroll tools. Maybe a bit of wood around the center for grip. They would be for the pencil grip position of course.
  14. Got a few more pieces of wood that I will hopefully be able to dry out and stabilize. Here's my preliminary drying method. I just use a regular fan, and some containers to captur and recirculate the air where I want it. I decreased them from an average of 85 grams per piece to around 20g in 48 hours. I will bake them for a few hours and then put them back At the fan for a few more days. Then it's time to stabilize them. I may even try to rough shape and them now on the (before stabilizing) because Once they are stabilized it's like working concrete
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