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Everything posted by JoeDeF

  1. I'm not an expert on it, but fish glue releases way more easily than hide glue, IME. That's a very bad thing for repairs. I use it only for a few tasks where I want that easy reversibility (i.e. - an intentionally temporary glue joint like a positioning block on a jig, a pillar, etc). For those uses, I like it.
  2. I am not a bowmaker. But I have a question for the bowmakers here: is the runout in this blank is acceptable, or is it going to be problematic for the longevity of the stick or for the making process? To Ranala: It's great that you're making a bow, and I look forward to seeing your project progress.
  3. Your cello quartet played da spalla? Did you take pictures? I hope no one's neck got impaled!
  4. Joe Swenson said at the beginning of his post: So, look online for the Strad poster featuring the Vuillaume 1865 cello — you can make templates from the poster. EDIT: I meant look online for a store or vendor from which you can buy the poster.
  5. If Rubner doesn't work out for you, you could put a "wanted" post in the Luthier Exchange forum. I don't have a set for you, but I bet lots of folks have removed sets and just have them sitting around.
  6. I have a German gamba from the 1960's that looks a lot like yours. I can post pictures if you want to see.
  7. Maybe place an ad on Craigslist stating: "Tomato stake wanted"
  8. So how do we explain that the prize winners all dressed in concert attire? So how do we explain that the prize winners all played the standard rep? So how do we explain that the prize winners all showed up on time? Umm, because it is expected of them?
  9. If you think that the old glue may be an aliphatic resin glue, try De-Glue Goo. It softens aliphatic resin glues (as well as hide glue, though I'm sure you're already adept at removing hide glue without it).
  10. Hey Dwight, It's not one but •two• coffee tables! Joe (former IAA faculty -- after you left)
  11. As to why it was done, all I can think of is perhaps to create more vibrating surface area, maybe to increase amplitude of the lower modes?
  12. It’s not entirely clear from the pics, but it looks like the nut termination is causing the problem. The nut should terminate the speaking portion of the string at its very edge with a “cliff.” Your cello’s nut appears to have been trimmed improperly in an effort to lower the A string height. The nut seems to slope down as it ends, creating a curved and indeterminate contact point. This is very much like a sitar bridge (jawari or Jivari), in which the termination is a carefully curved surface which interferes with the pulse train traveling along the string, causing the pulse to break up and shift the string’s energy to the higher partials. That’s what gives the sitar its characteristic nasal twang. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jivari I once got a desperate call from a professional musician former student who stated the she was getting married the next morning and at the rehearsal, the piano sounded like a sitar! Sure enough, one of the strings was terminated with a ramp shape (poor bridge notching). A few swipes with a sharp knife cured it. So, in your case, if the luthier judges that there’s enough ebony left to do so, I’d have the nut re-dressed to make it terminates cleanly at its edge. Or, possibly better, just have a new nut made.
  13. Cymbal maker Matt Bettis, to the best of my knowledge, still lives in his RV and goes around the most beautiful places in the country making (excellent) cymbals. Quite a life: https://www.facebook.com/BettisCymbals/videos/vb.215413568489743/1594020173962402/?type=2&theater
  14. JoeDeF

    I can't read!

    I especially like the old fashioned tack!
  15. If the retouching material goes into the crack (that's presumably likely if the goal of the retouching is to hide the crack), won't that make it harder to glue the crack well in the future if it becomes necessary to do so? Just asking, any opinions on that?
  16. Someone here is probably going to hit me over the head with their sturdiest bass fingerboard blank for saying this , but thinking about it, the easiest way to get started might be to make an electric violin. That could be a simple project that would likely yield a playable instrument while giving you a chance to carve a neck, think about the basic geometry of the neck/bridge/tailpiece, and incorporate as much or little carving as your creative design calls for. For example, you could carve a scroll if you like, or if not, make a scarf jointed paddle-style headstock (like an electric guitar, with lightweight mechanical tuners) instead. You could buy a pre-made preamp, and your electric violin would sound about as bad/good (judgement call ) as that preamp would sound in any electric violin. Just a thought….
  17. Hi ICTOO, Glad you're interested. This is a hard hobby to get into without spending a fair amount of money money, though. As for books, the best cheap-ish books are the Henry Strobel books. You can start with the "Violin Making Step by Step" book, and add a few more later: https://www.henrystrobel.com/ This thread has some thoughts on what tools are needed. I linked to directly Michael Darnton's post to give you an idea how many tools he considers to be necessary. You could get by without some of them, but it would make things harder, more time-consuming, and less likely to lead to a successful instrument. https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/106465-a-luthier-as-a-hobby/&tab=comments#comment-106478 As for wood, you could start with International Violin (tools also), though there are many options: https://www.internationalviolin.com/ You could practice carving (and sharpening your tools so that they cut/carve well) on wood from a lumberyard before taking tools to your "real" tonewood. As for videos, Davide Sora's, though they are in italian, are my favorites: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCggqGrdYUEovaC9UKnSMD3g/playlists Incidentally, Davide is a member here and posts good information. Really, if you're not able to find a mentor (which would be by far the best strategy), reading all of the posts on Maestronet and using the search feature here is your best bet. Good luck with it. Joe
  18. Here are some threads that I found to be helpful: https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/321000-problems-joining-the-top-plate/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/324669-tips-on-making-a-seamless-front/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/312379-stanley-5-14-inch-plane-adequate-for-jointing-plate-seams/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/319298-which-plane/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/319564-plane-for-jointing-top-and-back-plates/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/317209-cello-plate-jointing-how-its-gone-so-far/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/331227-jointer-planes/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/317185-jointing-plates-getting-the-first-inch-on-line/
  19. Very nice, Manfio! Viola sounds great. I like that slightly wider lower bout. I'm assuming that this video is the same group and same viola?
  20. Maybe that one was purfled by his heretofore unknown partner, George Crakse
  21. It works, or you can buy a dedicated CA solvent (which has additional ingredients to soften the CA). I have used several brands, and currently use FastCap 2P•10 Debonder, which works very well.
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