JoeDeF

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  1. If you think that the old glue may be an aliphatic resin glue, try De-Glue Goo. It softens aliphatic resin glues (as well as hide glue, though I'm sure you're already adept at removing hide glue without it).
  2. Hey Dwight, It's not one but •two• coffee tables! Joe (former IAA faculty -- after you left)
  3. As to why it was done, all I can think of is perhaps to create more vibrating surface area, maybe to increase amplitude of the lower modes?
  4. It’s not entirely clear from the pics, but it looks like the nut termination is causing the problem. The nut should terminate the speaking portion of the string at its very edge with a “cliff.” Your cello’s nut appears to have been trimmed improperly in an effort to lower the A string height. The nut seems to slope down as it ends, creating a curved and indeterminate contact point. This is very much like a sitar bridge (jawari or Jivari), in which the termination is a carefully curved surface which interferes with the pulse train traveling along the string, causing the pulse to
  5. Maybe the OP is an orthopedic surgeon from NY....
  6. Cymbal maker Matt Bettis, to the best of my knowledge, still lives in his RV and goes around the most beautiful places in the country making (excellent) cymbals. Quite a life: https://www.facebook.com/BettisCymbals/videos/vb.215413568489743/1594020173962402/?type=2&theater
  7. JoeDeF

    I can't read!

    I especially like the old fashioned tack!
  8. If the retouching material goes into the crack (that's presumably likely if the goal of the retouching is to hide the crack), won't that make it harder to glue the crack well in the future if it becomes necessary to do so? Just asking, any opinions on that?
  9. Someone here is probably going to hit me over the head with their sturdiest bass fingerboard blank for saying this , but thinking about it, the easiest way to get started might be to make an electric violin. That could be a simple project that would likely yield a playable instrument while giving you a chance to carve a neck, think about the basic geometry of the neck/bridge/tailpiece, and incorporate as much or little carving as your creative design calls for. For example, you could carve a scroll if you like, or if not, make a scarf jointed paddle-style headstock (like an electric gui
  10. Hi ICTOO, Glad you're interested. This is a hard hobby to get into without spending a fair amount of money money, though. As for books, the best cheap-ish books are the Henry Strobel books. You can start with the "Violin Making Step by Step" book, and add a few more later: https://www.henrystrobel.com/ This thread has some thoughts on what tools are needed. I linked to directly Michael Darnton's post to give you an idea how many tools he considers to be necessary. You could get by without some of them, but it would make things harder, more time-consuming, and less likely to
  11. Here are some threads that I found to be helpful: https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/321000-problems-joining-the-top-plate/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/324669-tips-on-making-a-seamless-front/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/312379-stanley-5-14-inch-plane-adequate-for-jointing-plate-seams/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/319298-which-plane/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/319564-plane-for-jointing-top-and-back-plates/ https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/317209-cello-plate-jointing-how-
  12. Very nice, Manfio! Viola sounds great. I like that slightly wider lower bout. I'm assuming that this video is the same group and same viola?
  13. Maybe that one was purfled by his heretofore unknown partner, George Crakse