Pete Moss

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Everything posted by Pete Moss

  1. Looks like you are on your way Shunyata.
  2. Someone here mentioned a solid work bench. This should be considered to be as important as any other tool you may have. A flexing or rocking bench will make producing a good joint nigh on impossible.
  3. I think what Brad and others are doing is very important. We need to have a choice when it comes to packaging. Perhaps it's up to the consumer to direct the supplier. We need to save the planet from ourselves for ourselves.
  4. Hi Michael, do you use Dov's pegs, fingerboards, or other parts? They seem to have everything at reasonable prices, I'm just wondering about the quality... Thanks Pete
  5. Hi G'dae, from a cursory glance at the two tailpieces you ask about, one is made in Germany from finest ebony, workmanship etc. It's 115 mm long. The other one looks very similar but doesn't state the length or other features. Who knows? I would try the cheaper one first, not much to lose if you have to tweak it a bit or if it's absolute junk. P.S. your screen name is fun.
  6. Hi Jackson, If you are worried about dust, anything you can do to reduce it helps. It is a legitimate concern. You mentioned that you wear a mask at times... masks are your final dust collector, just before your lungs. My shop is a funiture shop mostly and I have three dust collectors and a spay booth. To clear the air quickly, I run the booth fan for a bit. I also have a Delta air filter above the sanding area which helps somewhat but is loud. If you have the climate to pressurize the shop, in out with a fan to ensure a clean airflow at all times is good, watch the humidity. A damp mop over the floor is an easy way to "freeze" dust. Vacuum often, don't forget the mask. I think that you are wise in your concerns regarding a safe, healthy work environment. I have developed sensitivitys to certain woods over the years. Thanks, Pete
  7. My only experience is to align the plate to the ribs, clamp, drill through the plate into the top and bottom blocks. You can insert drill bits as pins and scribe the outline. P.s. I'm no expert, Pete
  8. Hi, Have you considered using alignment pins? I'm assuming the ribs are on the mold.
  9. While I am not qualified to remark on the fiddle, I do recognize a good cat...
  10. Hi Julian, Mike Spencer has some good advice. At my furniture shop we say “stay fluid, move through it”. ( woodworkers are not poets). It’s also helpful to stand on a padded surface while working. When sitting for hours working on a fiddle, I use a good drafting chair, adjusting frequently. Good lighting can reduce physical stresses too. Take a walk, go for an easy bike ride, marry a massage therapist. to your health, Pete
  11. Hi Jackson. If I read you correctly, you mean the pin is inserted on the underside (glueing surface) of the plate into the block. Would this not be an invisible hazard to future repair people? Excuse me if I missed your point, Pete
  12. Mr. Beard, message received, loud and clear. Thank you, Pete
  13. May I ask who wrote the book "You can make a Stradivarius violin" ? I do have J and C's book, Sacconi's book and most of Strobel's work, Herron Allen etc. I would agree that J and C's and Sacconi's are very useful. Darnton is also very helpful. thanks Thanks, Pete
  14. Well then, I bring my bow to Vivian at Coup Bizzare. She always giggles when I remind her not to get the frog wet.
  15. Guitar makers occasionally refer to their work as a "build", my current "build", etc. I haven't heard "guitar buider" from these people, but if I did, what's not to understand? Has a successful violin maker built a reputation or built a clientele?
  16. Hi Mendicus. I like it, but you can't fool Saunders, can you? Cheers, Pete
  17. What style of music will be played on this violin?
  18. My first instrument was so poorly repaired and set up that upon seeing it, my first teacher refused me lessons. My parents had to rent one for me that the teacher approved of. My Dad bought the first one for me but wasted his money. I was picked on at school because my parents wouldn't give me an allowance to eat at McDonald's. Pete
  19. Pete Moss

    Wood ID

    Hi Rue. I hope that you are feeling better, I certainly am, after reading your post. Regards from Toronto, Pete
  20. While I love your rustic taste in photography, (and your bass), I feel that your cat has a better idea of what this bass is than I do. As others have noted, it may be prudent to leave it alone other than a setup. Perhaps you could post a few more pictures including the peghead. Pete
  21. Hi Thomas. While I can't comment on Korolia bridges, I have used a New Sound bridge ( the company's old name). If I remember correctly, it was nicely cut and had a good colour as a treated Aubert does. I do remember that it was a success. I hope that this helps? Pete
  22. Hi treesurgeon, it works well on guitars, and you are a surgeon, why not try bone !? Pete
  23. Hi Florian. Why not try to reglue it first. I don't know what a real restorer would do so wait for other replies but I would remove the upper and lower purfling, reshoot the joint with a very sharp and fine block plane, pre bend two short lengths of purfling to help register the seam and reglue it on a flat surface with clamps. Use strong glue in a hot room. You will need to carefully remove the short registration purfling and replace it, perhaps use a scarf joint and save yourself the time of redoing the corners. Perhaps cleat the seam? I'm looking at this on a phone, your work looks worth saving. Good luck, Pete