hungrycanine

I'm a beginning violinist but have the curiosity of a long-term professional! I've seen lots of old bows in antique stores, junk shops, the Internet, etc., that were once decent bows, judging from the effort that went into decorating the frog, wrappings, and such. Could some of these bows be useful if they were re-haired and cleaned up a bit? Or do they lose their camber (and whatever else old bows might lose!) and become basically sticks? I've seen some that are obviously twisted, or warped, or cracked. But what about some of those others? I'm not searching for a rare treasure worth thousands of dollars. I'm just trying to understand what happens to a bow as it ages and gets tossed aside. Maybe there's already a good link here for Old Bows 101 that I've missed? Thanks for any guidance.

Thanks for the thoughts. It ended up going for more than I was willing to chance, especially with the generally underwhelming responses from this forum! Thanks for steering me away.

Thanks for these valuable pieces of advice! And apologies for posting in the wrong place!

I'm looking for a decent instrument to leave with family in the States when I visit. This post (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261009712852&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:CA:1123) is about to expire on EBay. Can anyone help identify the violin and offer an opinion if it truly is "professional" -- not "student" grade? Thanks

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261009712852&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:CA:1123 Martin, Not sure how to do this. I'll try! Lyndon's reply doesn't sound very encouraging, though, and I'd need lots of encouragement to purchase off eBay blind!

I'm looking for a decent instrument to leave in the U.S. to play when I visit family. One of possible interest has shown up on EBay (Vintage Professional 4/4 Violin - A Must See)and its only around for a couple more hours. Does anyone recognize the instrument? The seller claims it is "professional" level -- not student. Any opinions? Thanks

Sorry about the pic size previously. New technology, old guy....what more can I say? I think this picture should work; I certainly hope so. I realize the photo doesn't show much, but the frog is unfamiliar to me and I'm wondering if more experienced folks can immediately identify it as a bow worth looking into or not? I already have a K. Holtz CF bow (about $90-100 new)and an even cheaper wooden bow, so have no interest in chasing down one of similar quality. It is quite a drive to actually see the bow and try it out, so I'm trying to determine if it's worth the trip. Thanks for any advice you can give me, and again, apologies for the resizing problem.

Can anyone tell from this picture if this looks like it could be the frog end of a decent bow?

Older than E-Bay, I'm certain! Sorry about the pic size. I attempted to resize them from what I had, but when I click on what appears on my post, they go huge! Mea culpa....

Can anyone date this Hopf violin from the pics? I'm aware of a wide range of instruments flying under the "Hopf" banner -- unlike men, not all are created equal!

Sorry, Scott. But your info re: the sale price on EBay is far from accurate. The violin was placed on EBay with a reserve, as the original poster said. It was never sold on EBay, but was privately sold to someone I know for far more than $167!!!

Thanks for these responses and thoughts. I initially used a Kun rest, and went to the Bonmusica at my teacher's recommendation, as it allows for greater adjustment and shapes to my shoulder better than the Kun did. That helped immensely, but as my playing "progresses", I'm finding that my left hand can't do the fingering I want it to do because it is also having to push the violin back up on my shoulder. It might well be that the chin rest is what needs attention. Currently, mine is to the side, and perhaps I just need to go to a well-stocked shop (not a luthier necessarily?)and explore options. Two related thoughts: 1) I'd love to play with no shoulder rest, but right now, that is inconceivable! 2) As a beginner, I find it WAY too easy to blame my problems on equipment, and not to just work though the problem, since at this stage, I'm not sure what is "technique" and what is an "equipment" issue. Thanks again for the feedback.

Thanks for these responses and thoughts. I initially used a Kun rest, and went to the Bonmusica at my teacher's recommendation, as it allows for greater adjustment and shapes to my shoulder better than the Kun did. That helped immensely, but as my playing "progresses", I'm finding that my left hand can't do the fingering I want it to do because it is also having to push the violin back up on my shoulder. It might well be that the chin rest is what needs attention. Currently, mine is to the side, and perhaps I just need to go to a well-stocked shop (not a luthier necessarily?)and explore options. Two related thoughts: 1) I'd love to play with no shoulder rest, but right now, that is inconceivable! 2) As a beginner, I find it WAY too easy to blame my problems on equipment, and not to just work though the problem, since at this stage, I'm not sure what is "technique" and what is an "equipment" issue. Thanks again for the feedback.

I'm a beginning player (about 1 year)and am still having problems holding the violin securely at my neck. Early on, my teacher suggested I buy a Bonmusica shoulder rest, and that certainly helped. I feel confident about my shoulder-hold when I begin, but as I play, I feel the violin slipping down. This, of course, encourages me to hang on more than I wish to with my left hand and to press against the violin neck with my thumb. This happens especially as I finger the E string. My teacher doesn't have much more to say on the topic. I'm wondering if this is something I should go to a luthier with? Would s/he be the best person to recognize a problem with my current chin rest or such...that it should be raised/lowered, replaced with a different style? Or is it something I should seek help with from another teacher/player? Thanks for any thoughts on the subject. Since I'm not sure if this is a Pegbox question or a Fingerboard question, I've posted to both. Sorry for the replication.

I'm a beginning player (about 1 year)and am still having problems holding the violin securely at my neck. Early on, my teacher suggested I buy a Bonmusica shoulder rest, and that certainly helped. I feel confident about my shoulder-hold when I begin, but as I play, I feel the violin slipping down. This, of course, encourages me to hang on more than I wish to with my left hand and to press against the violin neck with my thumb. This happens especially as I finger the E string. My teacher doesn't have much more to say on the topic. I'm wondering if this is something I should go to a luthier with? Would s/he be the best person to recognize a problem with my current chin rest or such...that it should be raised/lowered, replaced with a different style? Or is it something I should seek help with from another teacher/player? Thanks for any thoughts on the subject. Since I'm not sure if this is a Pegbox question or a Fingerboard question, I've posted to both. Sorry for the replication. Richard

Thanks for this discussion. In regard to the finish on guitars, I had obviously left the building when the mid-day meal was served. Certainly the darker back of my Guild has SOMETHING on the surface; it is not simply wood with a linseed-type of oil on it. Still, though, one needn't look into violin discussions much before hearing all sorts of reference to the varnish. Years of familiarity with guitars had left me oblivious to such matters as finish. So any further thoughts about why the differences in treatment are most welcome.

Having played acoustic guitar for years, I've recently started learning violin. I'm curious about varnish and violins. I don't think that guitar wood (at least the variety of folk guitars I'm familiar with -- Martin, Gibson, Guild, etc) is varnished, but is treated with some sort of replenishing oil. But I frequently hear of coats of varnish being applied to violins, of varnish in different colours, or that the varnish is badly cracked and needs repair. I'm curious about why this difference between how guitars are "finished" and violins. Or am I dead wrong about guitars? What would happen to the sound of the respective instruments if you reversed the finishing process?

I'll definitely check those options out. I've since discovered The Amazing Slow Downer, software from Sweden for about $50 that also allows you to slow down the speed, change the key, and more. It has a free download for you to try a track or two. Seems pretty useful for learning.

That only seems to repeat the whole CD, not the track

I have several CDs that accompany instruction books for various types of fiddle music (Celtic, Bluegrass, Metis, etc). A CD might contain 75 or a 100 "clips" of tunes being played on a violin. It is helpful to hear what I should be striving for, as I work through the printed music and instruction in the accompanying manual. But the clips are too short to be able to play along with them. By the time I start the tune on my computer, pick up my violin and my bow, and get in position to play, the clip is over! I think it would be VERY helpful to play along with them. Is there some piece of recording technology available that would enable me to make, say, a 5-minute-long repetition of the 15 second clip my CDs might have of a particular tune? Maybe even my computer is capable of this, but if so, I'm unaware of how to use the function.

Thanks for the ideas (but I have better uses for vodka!). I plan to replace the strings with better ones (they are currently D'Addario Helicores) when I can purchase them in the States in a couple of weeks. I couldn't say how long the current ones have been on or whether they are in need or replacement (how does one know when they are worn out?) or not (other than the oil/Pledge issue.). But I am concerned I'm going to make a mess of the bow hairs if I play too much on the strings as they are. Then again, maybe I'm just being neurotic and I'm not used to the different bow and violin?

I recently purchased an older violin through a private sale. The violin had been used by a youth who had given it up, and the father was selling it, although he knew nothing about violins.. The wood was obviously cleaned up for the sale, and my guess is that some of the oil or polish used on the wood is now on the strings. What is the best way to clean this off? And if some of the oil has already been passed on to the bow, does anyone know the best way to address this possibility (short of a rehairing!). I could be wrong about the oil on the strings. But I seem to be finding the bow slipping up and down the strings an unusual amount. This might just be caused by not being used to the new bow (an inexpensive carbon fibre) but I get a similar reaction when I use my older (and inexpensive) wooden bow too. Thanks for any assistance.

Ron, That may well be, but the store in Toronto told the guy the violin might be worth $1500 to $2500, not the prices listed in Heinl's current price list, which you give. So what is termed a Louis Handorff violin today isn't necessarily the same as the instrument in question. And re: the previous remark about the university selling a Handorff for $600, a lot of factors could be at play. Still, a university speaks from a more neutral position than does a shop seeking work or a maker/manufacturer backing his own product, it seems to me.

Given that the estimate for repairs was twice as high ($600) as the actual cost ($300), and that the shop's appraisal was $3000, whereas Heinl gave a range of only $1500-2500, I'd be pretty skeptical of what the shop told you. And if they really thought it was worth $3000, why wouldn't they sell it for you on consignment and make some money themselves? Maybe they just wanted you to spend the money on fixing it up AT THEIR SHOP. It all sounds shady to me. Lots of other evidence suggests the instrument in your pictures is an inexpensive starter model, which Handorff also made. And the fact that someone gave it to you for free suggests that even more. Everybody wants to find a rare violin in Grandpa's attic, but it doesn't happen very often. If you can get your $300 back for repairs, and another hundred for your obvious frustration and running around, you might do well to take it. Otherwise, this instrument might join the vast list of unwanted student instruments on craigslist.