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Cliff Green

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About Cliff Green

  • Birthday 08/18/1948

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  • Location
    Amissville, Virginia
  • Interests
    music, violin family making, staying alive

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  1. Mountain mahogany because, Eric Meyer makes really nice fittings , and it’s not an endangered tropical timber.
  2. I have an Automach that I bought years ago. Not cheap. It's not that fast and is annoyingly loud since it's action seems to be that of a miniature jack hammer. Id be willing to send it to you to see if it works for your student. PM me.
  3. What is the consensus for using Simple Green in cleaning violins, especially removing rosin?. I like SG for cleaning my boat and tractor engines, but am somewhat suspicious of using it on varnished surfaces.
  4. An edge clamp can be helpful for these cracks.
  5. Bigfryman, You're on a schedule and it appears you're using common sense as your building guide. Common sense is good and necessary but having a decent guide will save you a lot of do overs. If you can't get the J & C book then a reasonable substitute would be a copy of Henry Strobel's book Making a Violin Step by Step and better than common sense alone. The book can be had for around $30. I used it for my first violin before J&C was written or I knew of Maestronet and ended up with a decent fiddle. Several of your questions/ do overs were well covered by this book. Good luck
  6. The deadline for preordering this book is fast approaching, 31 May. You save 15£
  7. Dentists have colored resins for the repair of teeth. Perhaps you could find one to help you.
  8. I remember seeing an article in the Srad or Strings magazines which had a picture of three racks of violins ready to be shipped from the factory. The dark brown violins were to go to the U.S., the Orange flavor to Asia, and the in betweens to Europe
  9. Wow! Only took me twelve years to get promoted to Senior Member. Here I go emulating CT with multiple posts.
  10. Michael Darnton's article on finger boards is here: violinmag.com . His instructions are in chapter 15 on set up.
  11. The tuner posts on many Hill style tuners are stamped out in manufacture so one side is very rough. As Steve recommends sandpaper will fix them. After someone here recommended them I've been using Gotz fine tuners. They seem to be of better manufacture plus the geometry is different allowing the E string to touch the fret of the tail piece. The downside is that the tuning range is slightly decreased, but that is minimal. I still sandpaper the edges of the tuning post for insurance. In the US they are available here: http://store.99strings.com/vifitu.html You can google for a picture.
  12. Soul, Your strings should have clearances at the finger board end of 6mm and 8mm for the A and G strings respectively. You may get lucky and only need a luthier to shorten your bridge and reshape the top. This needs to be done by someone who has the knowledge and tools to do it right.
  13. CT, If you make linings from the lathes in your last picture, the growth rings will be parallel to the ribs unlike your drawing showing the rings perpendicular to the ribs. Personally either works for me. As you say, "just saying".
  14. Sorry, on rereading your post you're looking for a building stand not a storage one. I still like my storage stand a lot, maybe someone will find it useful.
  15. Here is one that I designed and built. I wanted a stand that would hold the cello with the spike extended. The yoke is lined with leather and actually grabs the back overhang so that the instrument is very secure.
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