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About stradglider

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  1. You can just use 20cm needle file. Screw the tip of the file into the notch of the loosened sound post. You will have total control when you get the sound post out without any worry it will fall off. Make sure you unscrew the tip of the the file when taking it out of the sound post - or you will break it. Ask how I know it
  2. Guess I am more welcome in the lurking mode... Have a good day guys.
  3. stradglider

    New Bow

    Oh, and, while wanted to warn of the fraud, I totally forgot to mention that I love your bow, Joseph. It is very beautiful, congratulations. I like a lot bows that are straight behind the head. I think that is one of the secrets of great French bow makers and that is what gives feeling of resistance to bows that otherwise might feel soft. So the bow can be both quite flexible, which gives warm sound, but still strong enough not to creep.
  4. stradglider

    New Bow

    Be carefull... It seems that the bow sold is not the same bow as in Paul's certificate...
  5. You got me! See? Thats what I am talking about I am ashamed and crawling back to lurker's department...
  6. That is true that smilies often used to "hide" negative intent or added for pure decoration. But were they really intended that way? I like to think that originally emoticons were invented in an attempt to add a kind of sence, the kind that usually added when we speak loudly by tone of our voice. Our words can mean mulltiple things, the same phrase often could be said as a good thing or a bad thing depending of how we tone it with the voice. How do you know if I was kidding or what I said was sarcasm? Let's say I write "that violin you made is terrible", how do you know that I am joking if I don't use a " " ? Or how would you know without an emoticon that what I actually say: "your advice to size the bassbar with linseed oil before gluing really helped "... , said negatevely (see, I am here trying to use " " to show that all that linseed oil nonsence means to be kind of kidding too) ? To say truth, even when I try to use emoticons it rarely works. When I try to say funny things (I love to joke and say all kind of stupid things) even use of smiles doesn't help... But here we again at language problem - thats were the "dog buried" I guess.
  7. Hi all! Major reason that I do not post because English is not my mother-tung. Not that I have trouble to participate a discussion, but I feel that my English limited in another way: I know the words, but lack the "feeling" of the language. It seems that what I try to say in the end sounds not as intended... Often, when I suggest something, it sounds rather like criticism, which I never intended, and provokes negative reaction from other people. My messages often been ignored (I especially hate to see my message to be the last in the thread) or even get negative respond. But now that I think of it, may be David was right, it's all evil emoticons that make people hate each other and fight!
  8. I understand that it is supposed to be a joke but anyways... First violin cannot be student any more than professional. Even student violin has to have certain standarts. Actually its not the best idea to think of your first instrument as a "student" violin. These are usually done in factories or big workshops. Even the most amateurish hobbyist can still call his violin handmade, and thats what people usually do... Big difference between professional and handmade... But... I never seen people calling their instruments "HOMEmade" which often would be more precise term...
  9. Guarneri heads like this really "turn" me on . There is something absolutely magical there...
  10. Thanks, I guess late 18th English will have to do .
  11. Eric did fantastic job! No one mention though how beautiful was an old peg. Is it known were was it made?
  12. I use wedge shaped cork. The bottom part is thicker and though it also pulls the f-wing up, thus helping avoid using f-hole clamp.
  13. I would like to share my observation regarding this technique. I have seen it is quite popular in some schools to mortise the linings into the neck and button blocks. And while it seems like fineidea (and of coarse absolutely fine at the corners!) I have observed on many instruments made that way that after a few decades ribs with linings detouch from were it was inserted into the block (rib to lining joint usually holds better than lining to block) and create an unpleasant bulge. While it is not unusual in all instruments to have a bulge near the block after some time, with instruments were linings were not mortised it can be easily fixed redistributing the bulge over the whole bout by opening the bout and gluing it evenly. If the lining was mortised into the block the bulge will than result in an empty space between the block and the lining which immediately would be filled with dust and after some time with glue as well. That kind of bulging don't look nice, impossible to fix from outside and even can sometime develope cracks at the end of the lining. Even worse, as a result of the glue and dirt accumulation the back can start getting the bulge too (and even cracks!) at the area around mortised lining. Have you guys noticed something like that?
  14. You can adjust the rib corner thickness also by pulling the upper line of the rib corner a bit down (a bit like strad treated the purfling). I painted the correction by red line in the medium diagram: edited: I deleted part of the message that was not correct
  15. It's not worth the repair but also there are much more problems than just a crack. Look closely at the lower saddle area... it smells really big trouble there. It looks like one violin I seen that actually was split in half (the back had exactly the same crack as the top and it was going all the way through the lower block) and it was very weird as both halves were moving freely up and down with only neck holding the whole thing. May be if it even doesn't have back cracked, the block most likely is...