martin swan

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Everything posted by martin swan

  1. If you're buying something at the level of an Honoré Derazey 1. it should come with an up to date third party certificate 2. you should be sure you have faith in the seller Conducting a straw poll on Maestronet is not the answer ....
  2. Christian Sécrétan is a well known and well respected bow dealer/specialist. I assume he decided to set up this auction format as a way of mitigating some of the difficulties we are all in due to restrictions in international travel.
  3. Can you show me how you do this? It's either that or end up like Inspector Dreyfus ....
  4. The video talks about looking for spruces grown at altitudes of over 1000M in woodlots that have been "gardened", and sited in peaceful spots. He specifically looks for trees that have been "bien élagués" ie. "well pruned". There is nothing about falling debris or wind blown debris.
  5. Odd notes (ead or harsh) on the E string are generally easy to fix. I agree with Dwight that you should try different fine tuners as this may simply be an afterlength issue, but often a tiny movement of the right leg of the bridge will fix it ... most times I find that nasty notes on the E are to do with a poor bridge fit, either badly fitting overall or just slightly out of position.
  6. It seems an odd question to me as it would be dependent on altitude, air temperature, available sunlight, nutrients and water in any given location. High in the Swiss Alps or in a balmy spot on the Cornish coast?
  7. ... hence close planting in commercial forestry where fast growth is valued above quality of timber.
  8. What would you like to know? Google and that should tell you most of it. I helped peripherally on the English translation for the auction site ...
  9. Nonsense Nathan, there's a good article here if you want an authoritative take on the matter, though it's a bit old-fashioned and Darwinian, and it also doesn't differentiate quite enough between conifers and hardwoods :
  10. After a certain age, the lower dead branches become rotten. This is either environmental or a function of the tree's own growth. Personally I haven't observed big variations in the same stand of trees, but it stands to reason that the branches which get wetter are more susceptible to rotting where the branch meets the trunk ... whether to do with snowfall, rainfall, lack of light or other factors. And the smaller the branches, the easier it is for them to come off ...
  11. damn this new layout! seems you can't teach an old dog new tricks
  12. That's a very broad brush ie. broadly true but doesn't cover any number of special cases - maybe a rule of thumb for commercial plantation. I think it's probably truer to say that a tree requires energy to grow tall and it requires energy to accumulate girth. In ideal conditions it will do both, but there are many factors which can cause a tree to favour one over the other, or to fail to do either.
  13. The rate of growth is judged by the spacing of the yearly rings.
  14. So now we're talking about height? Variations of height for a given age are a function of either spacing or differences in situation. Nothing to do with anything we've been discussing.
  15. Of course I am completely familiar with this. Some trees used in the classical period were harvested when the girth was still small, but they weren't fast grown. With top quality alpine spruce you might find a tree with a diameter of 40cm that is over 100 years old. In a lowland plantation a spruce might achieve that diameter after 30 years. But you can do the work for yourself - take a look at photos of something like the Vieuxtemps, and you will see that there are around 100 plus growth rings in each half. Then go to your shed and measure how many growth rings you have over a width of 1
  16. Wood Butcher, Nathan, Don I think we're all saying the same thing but for the sake of clarity, could we perhaps talk about early wood (spring growth which is light in colour) and late wood (summer/late supper growth that's dark and denser)? Might help us all to use the same terminology .... and "early wood/late wood" is the most widely accepted descriptor for coniferous timber.
  17. Of course, I agree with it completely. OK last time .... 1. Alpine spruce used in Classical Cremonese instruments was not fast grown - I think you're conflating the idea of young trees with the idea of fast grown trees. 2. You don't get 20-30 foot of knot free wood suitable for tonewood from spruce trees grown in the UK. If you can find such a tree that's clean well into the trunk then it's either been brashed or it's a fast-grown weed that is good for nothing.
  18. I know Peter well and follow all of his posts. We have had constructive and friendly exchanges many times on Maestronet.
  19. I don't recall Peter or any of the numerous shamanic foresters on Youtube stating that alpine spruce suitable for tonewood was fast grown. The Maunder Minimum is a matter of scientific record, regardless of whether trees grown during this period have better VM properties. Your goalposts have shifted so often that I no longer have any idea what you're trying to patronize me about
  20. Even-ness of growth yes - this is what people look for, straightness and a lack of defects even more so. But even-ness means different things to different people, and with the classical Cremonese it didn't mean even-ness across the table of the violin. We generally see significant widening towards the flanks. They definitely looked for wood with a short growing season, where the latewood markings (the dark grain lines) are thin - this is a feature of wood grown at altitude. Maybe that choice was to do with the sonic properties, maybe it was to do with looks - there are certainly plen
  21. That's not the "killer question" - the killer question is why use alpine timber?
  22. Of course I agree with you, I wasn't making that point. I was trying to explain to sospiri that a) the climate was colder in the 1600s and that b) Stradivari's wood wasn't fast grown.