fiddlecollector

I doubt that was made by A Scottish gamekeeper

The photo scribling isnt accurate as the bow is yours and i dont know the measurements ,just that 4mm is sort of a standard measurement on many bows from the heel of the head.. Funny how in the 1000`s bows ive had in my possession ive never had a break through yet or needed to do that repair.

Conor i think the inner piece has grain perpendicular to the grain of the head? Do you think it adds much strength, as there wouldn`t be much left after cleaning up the mortice.

There are others thing you can use to cross link hide glue such as this. The resultant glue is supposedly more water resistant than when treated with glutaraldehyde, and has a higher tensile strength . But i believe it takes longer to cross link and needs heat of around 50 Centigrade. Around 5% of the weight of dry gelatin made into solution with water. https://www.amazon.co.uk/BULK-POWDERS-Acetyl-L-Glutamine-Powder/dp/B00IZD3BKK/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_121_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7R9QCDP4E1X68S62RKSA

I`ve used the dowel method for various bow repairs for years , one tip is to make a groove in scrap wood with the ball endmill and use it to make sure sure you get a good fit when turning down the dowel on the lathe before you remove it from the lathe. Its easier than relying on calipers.

I agree with Martin prices are much higher there than they used to be,far less attractive if you deal. I first went when the internet was only really taking off and the prices were very affordable . You can always bid over the phone as well ,they never have an English language problem whenever i`ve done that. But i suppose online bidding is easier now if you don`t attend.

Hard to tell density from just photos but the first one looks a slimmer stick and if weights are similar id say no1 is denser wood. But it doesn`t always mean a better bow.

As Martin says its a dark vein in the wood which has run out of the stick,if the grain was perfectly straight the dark line would go longer along the stick. But it could also be a glued break also. Not easy to tell 100%.But i would go with the dark vein. Shouldnt be a problem if its in the thicker frog end of the stick. Bows like this have lasted 200 years without breaking.

It would have cast iron or bronze plain bearings i would have thought. Mine is a 9A 1963 with a gearbox though. Bought it off a retired toolmaker who imported it direct to the Uk from South bend. They do fling oil about if you lubricate them properly but usually from the counter shaft. I have another earlier one from 1942 which i haven`t got around to finishing restoring yet.

heres its twin, two pins in heelplate and two in underslide.

0.75mm pitch seemed popular

Does returning windows to an earlier restore point not allow access to earlier versions of files???

Who would collect base-ball cards, it looks identical to that game `girlies` played in England at school called Rounders.

Joseph Hornsteiner????

What about the E-Coli effect etc....