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    North of Milton Keynes

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  1. Why they do any repairs is beyond me, it is an auction, people expect to do these sort of things when they buy at an auction. If they were selling through their private sales then fair enough but through an auction! Most instruments sold at other auction houses are sold as is, and your can always ask for a condition report .
  2. They should have asked permission then according to their terms. Also was this their normal auctions or T2? If it wasT2 i would personally be pretty annoyed as it it sort of goes against their idea (or sellers /buyers idea)of what T2 is supposed to be.
  3. I assume your lot was estimated between 10K $ -50K $ ,if it was under this then they should have asked your permission. I think they should anyway but thats my opinion.
  4. I havent a clue all i know is he was born in Czechoslavakia and emmigrated to the US and also possibly had a patent for an adjustable reed instrument mouthpiece.
  5. Its abeille wood i think ,but photo not very good for wood i.d. Sorry zoomed in on the handle definitely abeille.
  6. Certain types of wax can produce matt varnish as well.
  7. These were made up to the 1920's or later . As BF points out with unsquared off mortice in the handle,theres a preconception among many people that a round ended mortice like this means German/ Czech/ far East type manufacture , but its simply a product of mass production.These bows were sold by the dozen and all mortices are usually made with a series of round holes in a line. So each end would be rounded unless it was squared off which takes extra time . The head chamfers on this bow look ok ,many are very rough.
  8. I used to own a Maurizi, here a photo of the back for comparison. I dont see any similarities.
  9. Never heard about this brand, which one is for exotics, as i can only see slow medium and fast?? I use Hxtal NYL-1 optical epoxy but it takes ages to dry in the UK unless the weather is very warm and it is about the thinest epoxy ive tried. It will wick into cracks especially if you warm the joint a little.
  10. The i usually have the grain perpendicular for the insert somepeople use a ply madeup of 2 or more pieces glued together. (the photo i showed is not mine ,it was just to show what itcan look like. ) I usually prefer a thicker insert than what is shown there. Yes the corner crack like this would be best repaired using the insert extending either side of the mortice. But i dont see a problem for your method for cracks that are in the middle. But for high value bows id always use the milled extended insert when possible. I clamp the bow head using several methods but often just 1/2" packing foam glued to a wooden backing. (see photo,i tighten the vice quite alot but so that the head comes just short of touching the wooden backing pieces. It seems totally stable and doesnt move. Butive also used that hot water mouldable plastic ,leather andallsorts of stuff in the past. I tend to avoid carbide cutters for something like this , but i usually use 2-3mm HSS good quality cutters. When carbide breaks off in a hole its almost impossible to get it out withoit drastic action. The milling machine i use for bow work is just a Proxxon mf70 micromill ,though i do have a chinese based mini mill (similar to a Teig and a much larger machine that is like a basically an English made Deckel copy. (i generally use this when doing things like chevals that require bigger round nosed cutters.)The Alexander Toolmaker machine just mentioned can cut at any angle conceivable. A good illustration of similar repairs on an FX Tourte bow with similar corner crack to the OP's bow is shown in this link ,carried out by Pete Oxley. He appears to be using something like a 5mm mill on a cello head. The repair is alot more involved due to the valiueof the head but alot is relevant . Along with the carefully soaking in water locally to close a crack. http://oxleytourte.oberlinbowrestoration.com/ Afew photos showing the very small Proxxon mill i use for most stuff and one of the simple ways i clamp the head using foam.
  11. On the bow in question the mortice doesnt seem especially long compared to the ruler. I suppose its good practice to strengthen the wall regardless of bows value. Heres a photo off the web showing the type of re-enforcement i assume we are talking about.
  12. I prefer the vice as i like to go and do other things,also i know CA is supposed to dry fast but i like to just leave it for an hour or two to be on the safe side.
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