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  1. This is interesting. The packing tape is thinner and more clear. I am wondering which product has less adhesion. I have noticed that due to the properties of packing tape, it splits when removing it. Using mineral sprits for removal might be a problem for some varnishes. The other thing that occurred to me is that some use packing tape (or some type of tape) to pull off varnish when antiquing. Granted that is done before the varnish has fully cured.
  2. It was confirmed by the people at Bein and Fushi. Also Erwin Hertel (worked at Wurlitzer with Sacconi) used the product. If the varnish is well cured it will come off with a little warming and some patience. The problem is protecting the edge of the top and back. The contact vinyl really only goes on the rib. I have it on my expensive bows.
  3. You might try this Don. It has been used by shops on upper bout and also on bow handles.
  4. I am interested in the arching and F hole patterns for the Soil Strad. I have Addie's G forma outline file. Also other G forma Strads would be interesting to compare. Of all of the Strad magazine posters, there are no G forma ones available. Why the Soil? It is allegedly one of the premier concert instruments (Perlman's instrument of choice) therefore a good place to start. I should add that the 1715 "Cremonese" (G forma) is available but I have wasted money on the Herdim templates in the past. The arches and neck patterns were not even in the same galaxy of other sources. Additionally, if one wants to do arching correction, there are some choices to be made. The above pattern set includes a mold. While very interesting (visual) in design, I prefer a collapsable mold. I went to their website and their business (based in Cremona) is probably closed due to the pandemic.
  5. There are a few hurdles to doing the above. You have to convert CT scans to mesh files (.stl) for printing. Another obstacle is that many printers are size limited. The workaround is to do sections and then glue them together. Scrolls are more manageable to print due to the size. A better route is to CNC the plates.
  6. Having seen this in action yesterday, @Geigenbauer has done an awesome job. He has a beautiful CNC machine and done very nice modeling work!
  7. Keep in mind that a because the db scale is logarithmic, a 1db increase is roughly 26% more sound energy and roughly 7% of perceived or subjective loudness increase. Anything over 1 db is possible to be perceived as louder (if your hearing is "normal"). As the db change increases the difference in perceived loudness (amplitude) is increased.
  8. I encourage your efforts but wonder why you are doing this when there is already software available that can do the slices. I use Horos which is free. Edit - After rereading this I understand what you are after. Being able to separate the various parts from the entire image. Looking forward to your software.
  9. Good point but beginners definitely have another form of disorientation e.g. where do I put my fingers/hands! When I have taught strings classes for music education students that have string players, I ask them to play lefty on their main instrument to give them empathy for beginners. Try it. It Is very humbling!!!
  10. I have done that as I have over the last few years been suffering from golfer's and tennis elbow...
  11. Good point. In first and more so half position I did feel the old G/new E peg.
  12. I did both ways which probably increased the brain "short circuit".
  13. I realize that in an ideal sense a new bridge and nut should be fitted/adjusted. That goes without saying. This situation necessitated a quick change to a school instrument. I am fully aware and trained in instrument setup. I just thought that it would be interesting to note the change in sound. For the record the symmetry of the top arch is quite symmetrical with little or no lifting of the post side. Therefore the feet are well mated to the top. When I get some time I will cut a new bridge and nut.