shaun fosdick

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  1. Sandplate.com is a US distributor. PS-11 is the paper dresser. The cylinder cutters are quite useful.
  2. Lee Valley sells a kit that's supposed to relieve the lateral pressure from a sanding drum in a drill press. At work we have a Ridgid drum sander that is square enough and is a huge timesaver when you have a dozen cello bridges and half a dozen bass bridges in a week. It's just used in the rough stages of initial fitting of the feet and reducing thickness of the ankles. It saves time on having to sharpen my knives so much when you have to go through that much wood, just use a knife dedicated to taking the first passes after using abrasives.
  3. Yes, they're still in business, placed an order last week. Used to be you needed to have a business to even order tools. They have a new catalog out as of 2016 but are still focused on wholesale business. I have always had good customer service with Hans.
  4. This is the shape of my normal frog knot (this is a tip knot for a Glasser). My typical tip knot is shorter, tied, then another small knot. I do that so the hair can be slightly lengthened if desired. Also normally frog to tip.
  5. I learned rosin knots and started out doing them that way but now superglue for ease. When I need heat I use a heat gun and that would be a pain with rosin. The knot is a square knot but with each half looping twice, drop of med superglue and pinched with pliers to wick into the knot. If the glue is thick enough it doesn't go past the knot.
  6. Very much the truth but as a person who cuts the bridges I try to minimize this by selecting the stiffest blanks for bridges that will be carved thinner and the rest will be left thicker. When the customer picks up their instrument a brief primer on bridge maintenance and hope for the best because what else can you do.
  7. Bridges are mass produced objects and they can vary quite a bit within a given line. I've cut $40 blanks that looked beautiful, had nice long rays, and a had a good plink with a drop test but would bend like rubber when carved to very conservative dimensions. Given everything equal having more prominent rays help with warping. Things generally aren't completely equal so I bend the blanks as part of my sorting process. Go ahead and bend those five bridges from top to bottom and one is likely to feel stiffer than the rest.
  8. Yes they're all bad, not because of how look but Teller uses soft wood. These bridges are meant to be left very thick with minimal carving. The darker ones and the more pink ones will probably be a little denser. You would be better to get some Aubert #5 or Despiau One Tree bridges to practice carving on, those will give you more of a feel of how a better bridge will cut and preform. I buy two or three dozen One Tree violin bridges at a time and sort them according to stiffness and rough density. Some are regulated to rentals and often there is a couple that are better quality than their grade that get set aside for customers. You can have bridges with .25mm growth rings that are really bendy while others that have 3mm rings that are stiff. Each manufacturer has their own criteria on what they want the wood to have when they make their products.
  9. A Stanley low angle block plane with stock blade has treated me well for years. The blade is ground to around 28 degrees and the secondary bevel another 5 degrees or so. With straight grain ebony I usually can get about three or four cello fingerboards between sharpening, flamed one or two depending on how chippy the wood is. Also I often only sharpen up to 1500 on my fingerboard plane, you're going to finish with scrapers and sandpaper anyway.
  10. Having used both linen and silk rib reinforcements both of them accept hide glue well. I tear to size, fray ends slightly, then soak in glue. After applying I tend to cover the exposed side with plastic wrap and let dry for a full day. The next day remove the plastic and clean up excess glue squeeze out and let dry further. Even the silk seems to shrink some and is quite tough. Linen upholstery webbing comes in handy when working on bass ribs. It comes in various widths and thicknesses.
  11. For an inexpensive case the Gewa Concerto Double Violin Case works well. It also fits in the overhead of small airplanes.
  12. Good advice even if the customer asks for it to be cleaned. I had a coworker clean a cello bow a few years ago, as pre the customers request, when it came in for a rehair. You couldn't tell what kind of wood it was made from because of the rosin buildup, the silver was completely black and it had the same hair on it for twenty years (customer admitted that part). It was a nice older German bow something along the lines of a mid grade GA Pfretzschner, and the customer accuses us of switching her bow with a inexpensive beginners bow. I had to spend an hour showing her the difference in bows in various price ranges and explaining some of the finer details in them. The poor person went away a little embarrassed and I was mentally exhausted from the ordeal. Oh well, live and learn.
  13. Keep it and make some sugar maple and red spruce violas. It kinda sounds like a dessert, yum.
  14. I fly American Airlines a couple of times a year with a violin, even with a double case, and some times an attendant will say that a case won't fit but even on their smallest planes it will fit overhead. If all the overhead is full because you were last to board they generally are helpful rearranging the bins to make room for your instrument. American Airlines does have an early boarding option if you check in early. For being a budget airline they do fairly well with instruments.
  15. On student bows like this I turn my desk lamp, with a 75w bulb, upside down and lay the frog in the lamps shroud slide down. Remove when the frog is hot to the core, usually 10 min is long enough to soften the glue.