• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


1 Follower

About violins88

  • Rank
    John Schmidt

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
  • Interests
    Violin making, tool making, varnish making, casein emulsion grounds

Recent Profile Visitors

14088 profile views
  1. Bravo for you. My respect for you just now increased a lot. Thanks.
  2. I have an update. In Davide Sora’s video, he uses a long rod, probably carbide. I was using a SWISSMADE burnisher. I find that a short carbide bit, embedded in wood, allows a more sensitive feel of the process. Also, in Davide Sora’s video, notice that he does the final light strokes at maybe 10 to 20 degrees. Thanks David.
  3. Doug, Of course I agree. 65 gram weight and 40 wt rayon thread. This is an objective measure that will keep you honest. 26 pennies is 65 grams.
  4. So I am making violin #21. I am at the stage of shaping the back to final dimension. Templates, thumplanes, scrapers. In my old shop in North Carolina, I had a disc sharpening system... 6000 grit. I used 45 degree angle on my scrapers. In my current space, (cannot be called a shop), I can’t use that grinder disc. It’s 8000 miles away. I decided to try 90 degree angle scrapers. 020 inch steel, shim stock. 52100 steel I think. After watching YouTube videos, including Davide Sora’s, I think I have an observation that might be useful to some newbies. One method is to take extreme care to shar
  5. You said you have studied under a successful maker. What more do you need? Take his advice and get on with your career.
  6. No. At first you might use a 120 grit diamond plate. After that, I don’t think hollow grinding is necessary.
  7. I just watched Davide Sora finishing the graduation of the back plate. It seems to me that a good violin making school might require new applicants to have watched all of his videos.
  8. My method. You can use Silicon carbide paper, 400, 1000, 2000, 4000 grit, chrome oxide steel. Vertical wood post with 3 or 4 mm pin. Each gouge has a dimple in the end. To help find the angle you want, color the edge with marker, then rub, in place, on a piece of paper. Begin with 400 grit. Then 1000, 2000, 4000, using water on each. On the inside of the gouge, use 1000, 2000, 4000, chrome oxide. Each of these is on a dowel of suitable diameter.
  9. I am making a violin in New Zealand. I will use New Zealand wood, not ebony. Perhaps bone for the nut.
  10. We have finally reached a kind of saturation point in this thread where it begins to get very creative and fun. It’s about time. Carry on! little known secret, David Burgess is actually an Australian who has been masquerading as a Michigander all these years.
  11. I followed Oded’s recipe, mixing ethanol with powdered madder. Heated at 70 C for 3 hours in my wax pot. Result is a nice yellow. I will let 80 % of the alcohol evaporate. Thanks Oded. What a guy! You’re the man!
  12. Don and Carl, Thanks for you thoughts. Ok, I will lay this down for a while, but one experiment I want to try on a throwaway violin is to replace the bridge with a steel plate. Then replace the strings and tailpiece with a steel cable, maybe 1 mm dia. A turnbuckle with be inserted. The violin body will rest in a wooden outline shape. When the tension is increased, distortion should be visible. Where will failure occur first? How will distortion proceed?