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About violins88

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    John Schmidt

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    Laurinburg, NC
  • Interests
    Violin making, tool making, varnish making, casein emulsion grounds

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  1. This violin was brought to me. The dovetail joint was totally separated. I lifted the neck out easily. The glue on this joint was a kind of white soapy feeling powdery type. Certainly not hide glue. Made in Shanghai. What kind of glue are they using? It’s definitely the wrong kind.
  2. BTW, you don’t need a power grinder to sharpen gouges. Cbn plates 220 grit and 1000 grit, and Shapton 2000 and 4000. Plus another simple jig I invented. A video will come in time. But the 4 stones might cost as much as a grinder. And the grinder is faster.
  3. They now make a cbn wheel for the worksharp. This means you can grind coolly, without water. I use simple jigs to hold the edge angle. I use an old flat wet wheel grinder. The same jigs I use will work on the worksharp. There are 4 videos in all. A binder clip holds the blade to the jig.
  4. Shouldn’t this thread have died a natural death by now?
  5. The Wayne Lapierre ads have stopped all on their own. Or maybe google has someone reading this thread. Thanks to all. john
  6. Thanks. Very informative and helpful.
  7. On my screen, On the maestronet page, I am getting a picture of Wayne Lapierre and a message asking me to take a survey. I find his picture offensive. I clicked on the “x” to remove it. A message from google came up asking if I wanted this ad removed. I clicked yes. Then the same ad popped up on the other side of the screen. if these ads continue, I shall not be viewing maestronet, thank you.
  8. I use transparent iron oxide dispersions. Brown and red. Works for me. john
  9. First try rubbing out the pigment onto a smooth varnished piece of wood. Spread the pigment out and then try to wipe almost all of it off with your hand. If it gets to sticky to allow this, then on a second smooth varnished piece of wood, first apply a coat of linseed oil and wipe it off by hand. Now apply the pigment. The oil will facilitate moving the pigment to a thin layer. Now use uv lights to help the oil harden.
  10. David, abso****inglutely you may pass that blade along. It would be useful if the next recipient of that blade would report back here. All, please remember PM-X steel is not high speed steel and must be “cool ground.” john
  11. David, Thanks for the kind words. All,.... There will be an article on PM-X steel in the coming edition off The Scroll, a VSA publication coming out in September. John
  12. Ernie, Thanks for that. Wonderful.