violins88

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About violins88

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    John Schmidt

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    http://jpschmidtviolins.com/mknife.html
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    Male
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    Laurinburg, NC
  • Interests
    Violin making, tool making, varnish making, casein emulsion grounds

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  1. I use transparent iron oxide dispersions. Brown and red. Works for me. john
  2. First try rubbing out the pigment onto a smooth varnished piece of wood. Spread the pigment out and then try to wipe almost all of it off with your hand. If it gets to sticky to allow this, then on a second smooth varnished piece of wood, first apply a coat of linseed oil and wipe it off by hand. Now apply the pigment. The oil will facilitate moving the pigment to a thin layer. Now use uv lights to help the oil harden.
  3. David, abso****inglutely you may pass that blade along. It would be useful if the next recipient of that blade would report back here. All, please remember PM-X steel is not high speed steel and must be “cool ground.” john
  4. David, Thanks for the kind words. All,.... There will be an article on PM-X steel in the coming edition off The Scroll, a VSA publication coming out in September. John
  5. Ernie, Thanks for that. Wonderful.
  6. A new development is the cbn grinding wheel. Apparently you can grind at speeds like 1100 to 1800 rpm without overheating the tool.
  7. Adrian, i will mail your PM-X knife on Saturday. Let’s talk by phone when you receive it. I ground it on an 80 grit worn wet slow speed disc grinder. The effective grit might be 180, since the wheel is worn. Then went right to the 4000/6000 grit wet disc wheel. But the angle was increased just a little so I don’t waste time and abrasive polishing the whole bevel. Only the edge. I can accomplish the same thing with a 220 grit cbn stationary plate, a 1000 grit cbn plate, then increase the angle and use 2000 grit Shapton and 4000 grit Shapton. Finally, strop on 3 micron cbn paste on leather. I use a jig to hold the angle. If you can hollow grind using a cool process, hand grinder or Tormek, that’s great. Then you won’t need a jig to hold the angle. BTW, instead of a microscope, you can use the thread test. 40 wt. Sulky rayon embroidery thread attached to a 65 gram weight (26 pennies). You try to lift the weight using the knife edge on the thread. If it cuts through, it’s sharp. Every knife that leaves my shop passes this test.
  8. Regarding cutting by pushing forward or using a slicing action, some electron microscope pics on this website show a sawtooth shape of a sharp edge: https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/the-honing-progression/
  9. Well, I guess it is time for my reply. I make excellent violinmakers knives of powder metallurgy steel PM-X. I believe they are the very best available. contact me here: jpschmidt44(atsigngoeshere)gmail.com http://jpschmidtviolins.com/mknife.html
  10. I wrote to Pfeil. Here is the reply: Vielen Dank für Ihre Nachricht. Wir haben unseren Betrieb für zwei Wochen geschlossen. Ab dem 5. August 2019 sind wir wieder für Sie da. Thank you for your message. We have closed our operation for two weeks. From 5 August 2019 we are back for you.
  11. What kind of steel did you use?
  12. Does anyone here know what steel Pfeil knives are made of?
  13. Are the peril knives M2 steel? If so, that’s a big problem
  14. From gritomatic.com yes, made in Ukraine. Currently they don’t have the 3 micron, but I called gritomat and was told they have more coming in on month