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MikeC

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Everything posted by MikeC

  1. Your photo editing software and skills are lot better than mine! In the first set of photos there appears to be a pin at the tail end also. In the second set of photos the clarity is good enough to distinguish the black and white strips of the purfling so you would think a pin would be easy to identify there.
  2. The first looks like a dark spot just inside the purfling that could be a pin but it's too blurry to know for sure. Second photo if it's the same instrument looks like some small dents / dings in the wood but doesn't look like a pin. Althoug Reg says a pin half under the purfling and he has seen it up close in person. Pictures enlarged but limited in resolution.
  3. I notice on the picture that shows the button on the back there doesn't appear to be a locating pin near the purfling. Is that anything meaningful?
  4. image test. Ok that seems to be working. This is the map I used when graduating the back plate on my current build. For the belly plate I made it 2.5mm even thickness. I haven't strung it up yet so how well it will hold up I don't know.
  5. Weird, the first time that image wouldn't come up for me.
  6. I've drawn it a few times. It's simple but would take some practice to make it look smooth and flowing and authentic. The odd thing about the one on paper that I posed earlier is that one end of the line looks thick and the other end trails off thin which makes it look like he drew it starting on the end that I would finish on.
  7. If you can get a Strad poster, trace the corner blocks from the CT scan. It's hard to beat that for getting the corner length right.
  8. Thanks for the note on the F hole arching. That's something I've been trying to wrap my head around.
  9. paraph is a new one for me too. I had to look it up!
  10. I may have missed it if you said it already but how far from the edge is that pencil line? And how thick is the edge? Second photo looks good, I like to see the purfling on the high side of the curve, low point inside the purfling.
  11. You replied while I was editing check the third picture.
  12. This is a flourish typically underneath 18th and 19th century signatures. As in John Hancock and Ben Franklin seen here. Just pointing out the difference in a flourish and a signature. Although V. seems to use it as a signature. Here's an eve better example
  13. Here's mine, but it won't go full plate height. It works for thicknessing though.
  14. That's a nice looking corner. Is it a Strad?
  15. Here's a picture of my Gramercy bowsaw. I used it. It works. Just not what I would call ideal. The brass pins in the handle are cylindrical rather than tapered so they tend so turn when you don't want them too. and the blade is long and thin so you just have to be careful of it binding in the cut.
  16. That drill guide looks good. You'll have to find some way to position it over the scroll/pegbox. Shouldn't be too difficult to do. Davide I like that one! I like antique tools!
  17. In that case you can use a coping saw or jigsaw to cut the outlines of the plates. don't get too close to the lines, finish with rasp and files. I have a Gramercy bowsaw but it's not that good for the purpose, the blades are too thin and the handle pins are not tapered. I plan on building a better one. How are you going to drill the peg holes? It can be done with a hand drill but you have to be careful to keep the hole lined up properly. Drill half way from each side so they meet in the middle.
  18. Was there some mention of cochineal? Hasn't that been used by violin makers other than Strad? I did a quick google search but google is nothing but commercial websites and advertisements now, not like the good old days of web 1.0 I have a jar of cochineal lake but when I tried using it in some varnish it had a sort of tomato red that I didn't like.
  19. You should get a table top band saw and drill press. They are not very expensive and are very useful. It can all be done with hand tools of course but I do use the drill press for the peg holes and band saw to rough out the plate outline.
  20. Did they ever find anything besides millions of $ in advertising revenue?
  21. Hi Davide yes it could have been a combination of things. Probably my lack of experience using hide glue is the main issue but I'm learning!
  22. Those are good suggestions guys. I did glue size the blocks first because I knew the end grain would soak up glue. Next build I'll glue size the blocks, ribs and plate and maybe try Jim's method. What I did this time is after the blocks were sized then I just brushed fresh glue on them and the ribs and clamped the plate down. That doesn't work well apparently so lesson learned. Night before last I was going to fix it. I put some glue in a glass baby food jar that I use for heating it, dropped the jar and it shattered so last night I got a new container, thick ceramic not glass, and glued the remaining gaps so now both plates have a good solid glue join all the way around. Now I can move on to fitting the neck.
  23. I guess it could have been due to too damp a cloth when cleaning up the glue that caused it but I'm not sure. Jim, regarding Joe Thrift's method. Wouldn't you at least need to glue the plate to the blocks while the glue is freshly applied? It's hard to imagine being able to get enough water on the block surfaces to reactivate it after the glue has dried especially if the plate is clamped down. But maybe it's possible. I could see gluing the plate to the blocks and then using that method between the blocks just on the rib/lining part of the bouts.
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