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Everything posted by MikeC

  1. That seems a bit cryptic. Can you explain what you mean by that? I have some idea about the Barlow Woodhouse particulate ground but I could probably be wrong. I think they misidentified the layers.
  2. Hi David I'm curious do you know of solvents that it was not resistant to, alcohol for example? Or is it impervious to everything?
  3. lol great minds think alike!
  4. You use adenosine triphosphate for a ground? Wow!
  5. Not specifically instrument related but here's one curlymaplewood.com
  6. You must have better Chinese finger planes than the ones I got. They require a lot of work to make them usable and I much prefer the Ibex over them.
  7. wow that's a nice build. I'm very envious of your ability to engrave! I tried that on mine and it didn't turn out very well.
  8. I have used an exacto knife but don't like it so next build I'll make a custom blade for the purpose. What I don't like about the exacto is the point breaks off and also I don't like the straight edge.
  9. HI Rico I have some experience building a long rifle also and I have one now that needs some repair when I get time. I recently converted it from percussion to a small Siler flintlock. Are you a member on Americanlongrifles forum?
  10. https://www.internationalviolin.com/ They have a good selection of tools and supplies.
  11. As someone mentioned to me in a PM. This linoxin when applied to a solid surface like glass leaves a residue that remains soft and gummy. While it looks good on wood I'm not sure it would be a good substrate for subsequent varnish layers. So I'll have to consider carefully whether I want to use it as a ground or not. I like the look of it but there may be better alternatives.
  12. I concentrated the solution a bit by evaporating some of the alcohol and applied another coating. It seems to enhance reflectivity, contrast and detail in the wood but I think any good clear coat would do that. I think maybe put some balsam ground and a section of amber shellac next to it to see what they look like in comparison. I think it might look good on top of the stain that I'll be using.
  13. I once did some test samples using Hawthorn venice turpentine which is not real venice turpentine it's just some kind of rosin dissolved in turpentine. It smells wonderful! and looks good in the wood.
  14. This is what it looks like in the jar. There wasn't much insoluble residue left but I filtered it out. I'm not sure of the concentration but I would guess it's about the same as a one pound cut of shellac. I'm thinking of using it as a sealer coat under the varnish. But I also want to make some more and then evaporate out the alcohol so I have a somewhat solid soluble LO which I would then mix with other resins in whatever proportion maybe 1 part LO to 3 parts resin. then that would be my spirit varnish with oil varnish properties. I'm thinking of using some deeply colored long cooked pine rosin as the rosin component and depending on how much color that is in a thin layer maybe add some extra colorants. I'm not sure if you could add lakes to a spirit varnish. Maybe a madder tincture could be used. Extract madder color using alcohol and then use that as a solvent for the rosin/LO mixture. I'm not sure about using cochineal lake. I have a jar of it but according to someone who found a Strad in the basement only Strad used cochineal lake so I might get in trouble if I use it... That same source also said that only Strad used bookmatched plates so I guess I'll have to scrap this build and redo it with a one piece back and a one piece belly plate....
  15. Don this is all I've found so far regarding an analysis of glue splotches on wood finishing. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/267226185_Effect_of_glue_splotches_on_coloring
  16. This is a more accurate color. Photo taken out back in the shade with natural sunlight.
  17. Andreas I agree we don't know for sure. So I guess we have to make educated guesses and try things and see what works. Here are some pictures two of the front where I put the linseed oil solution and two of the back side you can see it did not soak through the thin rib blank. The colors in these pics may not be quite accurate. You all know how difficult it is to get accurate color pictures of violin finishes. On my monitor these pics look more red-ish than in real life. The wood is more white looking and the linseed oil more gold colored where in these pics the wood looks red-ish and the LO looks more brown-ish.
  18. Well an update on the linoxin. Some of it is alcohol soluble. There is an insoluble sediment in my jar of alcohol but the alcohol itself has linseed oil / linoxin dissolved in it. It is a dark amber color from the oil. I put a drop of it on a smooth non porus surface and the alcohol evaporated leaving behind a thin film of what must be linseed oil. I have a scrap of rib about 1mm thick and put some on it as a test. It does not soak through as raw linseed oil would. I wish I had a microscope so I could see just how deep it penetrates, not very deep I think. I'll post a picture later. Echard says only linseed oil in the upper cell layers but others suggest there may be a resin content so maybe an un-colored varnish. So which is it? Using this alcohol soluble version I can see how easy it would be to use as a sealer without worring about deep penetration of an oil.
  19. Here are my dropbox links. If these don't work I could try to upload the files here. I don't know if it's possible to upload the files here but I could try it. I found these and some other 3D files here on MN back some time ago but don't remember what thread. https://www.dropbox.com/s/kurmqoztk7hxkae/violinmidsectionbinary.stl?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/bhwrkq5mqgorxw1/Betts_FP_StlFromDICOM.stl?dl=0
  20. I may be able to post the file directly here I'm not sure. I'll try that too. It's the Stradivari Betts and as I recall I found it somewhere here on MN in another thread but I don't remember which one.
  21. I'll post a link this evening when I get home from work
  22. why do you no longer advocate annatto?
  23. Did you start a new thread yet? I don't see it.
  24. I'll send you a PM tonight. I'll have to find my files. I had cut one file to only have the lower part of the F hole area which is what I was mainly interested in. Maybe I can upload to dropbox and share a link.
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