MikeC

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Everything posted by MikeC

  1. I'm curious, did the old Cremona masters tan or stain before the varnish? or did they just put a ground and then varnish over white wood? Or does anyone know?
  2. I think this would be an example of glazing wouldn't it?
  3. it looks like the ribs are separated little bit from the bottom plate also. I think you'll have to glue the rib join first then glue them to the bottom plate.
  4. MikeC

    peg box question

    I measured mine and they are pretty close to the 5 and 7. I'm in the process of refinishing this one and while it's in the white decided to fix some peg hole problems and the box walls looked kind of thick to me but I guess they are ok so I'll leave them as is.
  5. MikeC

    peg box question

    thanks for those measurements. What is the C&J book?
  6. when carving out the inside of a peg box. how thick should the walls of the box be? I think mine may be too thick but don't know what a 'standard' would be.
  7. what is glazing? Does that mean that you use something like artist oil paint very thinned to put some color on over the varnish?
  8. I was wondering about the dry flakes in the can because I have a can that's probably about 20 yrs old or more. Thanks for the info.
  9. Hi Ian I wish I could take credit for that picture but no, I found it on the internet while searching for information on the micro structure of wood. I've seen pictures of Strad's scrapers. Cut off sections of old sword blades, not scalpel sharp I'll bet. So the surfaces of the old masters must have been just as rough as ours up through the scraping stage. Nice interesting pictures and drawing
  10. at least they get deleted fairly quickly
  11. how long do never used dry glue flakes in a can last?
  12. could be abrasion striations but I think the linear features are tracheids and that's what I would call pores. I'm not expert though so definately could be wrong. wood has some natural shine to it. Do you think burnishing would make it more reflective?
  13. while a scale isn't given the growth rings, summer/winter dark/light are identifiable in some of those pics and that gives some idea of scale. I still think some pores are obviously visible. There are tube like structures which are open / exposed by the cutting of the wood. Wouldn't those be the pores?
  14. That seems oddly out of context... strange. hopefully the boxwood pegs will get here soon and I will get on with it! I'll post some before and after pictures. whatdaya mean it's not a strad? it sounds pretty good to me! LOL
  15. interesting pictures. Do you have any educated guess as to what causes the reflectiveness? I'm a beginner and just refinishing a fiddle that I made years ago so I have it back to white wood. Didn't like the ugly stain that I put on it originally. I think I've decided on a varnish but still not sure what to use as a ground / sealer. I think in some of those pictures it's pretty easy to see the pores. What would be interesting is to see just a normal close up picture of each, not under magnification. Something that would show the true color
  16. Yep, that's what I was thinking. So that wouldn't be a problem then? about how far out do the pegs usually extend? Thanks for the measurements. Mine are definately too big. I'll be glad when the bushing dowels get here I'm anxious to get on with it!
  17. if you reverse taper the small hole wouldn't that put extra pressure on the glue joint when you insert the tuning pegs? I guess if it's a good joint that wouldn't be a problem?
  18. I was already thinking of bushing each hole individually rather than put the entire bushing dowel through both holes at once. it makes more sense to do them individually to insure a better fit. I have some old hide glue flakes so I could make some hot glue. I was wondering about tightbond wood glue or even epoxy? not traditional though but how well would those hold? is there a best orientation for the grain? or does it matter?
  19. I decided to get some boxwood bushings. Should arrive in a few days. What's the best glue to use?
  20. MikeC

    Cutting f holes

    admit the knife blades are not hollow ground like my razor but they are scary sharp and they can cut endgrain maple as easy as spruce. It takes a sharp blade to do that. I found mine on Ebay. it was in pretty good shape. I use granddad's old hone to sharpen. it's a black stone, dont' know what grit but it will put on a mirror shine, then a quick swipe or two on a leather strap. It scare's my wife. She thinks I'm going to cut my head off LOL
  21. MikeC

    Cutting f holes

    I used these refining the lines of the scroll, cutting the F holes, Final scraping of the spruce belly and maple back. They are each 3 inches long closed and hair shaving razor sharp. I sharpen them on my razor hone. The same one I use for the straight razor that I shave with. Very versatile little things! There is only one of the blades that I don't use much because it has a tiny nick in the edge near the tip.
  22. I can't see the picture. The spruce top on mine has very tight grain I don't think it's all that old though.
  23. thanks for the site. I'LL have to translate and convert euros to $
  24. here's a pic of my reamer, it has 6 shallow grooves each at a little bit of an angle so if you turn it clockwise it sort of cuts but it really scrapes instead of cutting. Picture is a little fuzzy. I used it tonight and it was ok to clean the best holes but just about ran out of length on the bad holes. So I taped sandpaper around it and was able to get into the biggest holes that way. I still have some reaming to do on one hole but I'm getting there. now I'll use it to make a primitive peg shaper to make the dowels to fit. I'll check out the hard maple at Walmart. Didn't know they had that.
  25. I measured my peg holes, they rang in size from about 8mm to about 11mm for the oval ragged hole. If I get one of those ebay reamers that are big enough then I may not have much use for it after this. I don't like to spend that much and wait 2 weeks for it to ship from China just to use it once. I could get it and then resell it I guess. as for spacing or locating the holes I think I'm ok without a template. these holes although too big are in about the right location so all I have to do is make a template of my pegbox and locate the center of the holes.