MikeC
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Posts posted by MikeC
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Jluthier welcome to the break a pegbox club. Looks like you did a good job of gluing it back together.
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What is influence in sound of the central thickness of the back? How would it differ if the back were a uniform thickness?
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Jluthier your first one looks a lot better than my first one in 1985
for corners I use the curve of a gouge to mark the shape and then take to full depth with an exacto.
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I think half-decent is do-able if you have good wood working skilz and maybe some sculptural skills. but full-decent is another story.
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Also if you've only done two corners on the back then you've got six more corners to improve you technique on.
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Don't scrap the plate and start over. Put in the purfling do the best you can and fill in gaps with something dark. It's a first build there's going to be problems. Do it better on the second build.
If the pick is too wide you can grind it thinner. I haven't measured mine don't know how thick it is but I used it unmodified just as it came from Amazon.
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Sometimes while browsing old threads I come across pictures that I like and post them here so I don't lose track of them. Mainly examples of nice looking varnish as I continue to contemplate what I'm going to put on mine after the grounding is finished.
Bergonzi and P. of Montua
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The edges and neck look whiter than the rest of it. Did you suntan it? Or put something on it to darken it?
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Looks good. I like it. I hope my no.2 turns out that good.
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Only 3 out of 5? They look good to me. What changes would make them better?
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Well, it is glued. It will have a spiral bushing sometime soon. I'll see how well it holds up. I lost a small chip on the treble side. If it breaks again I'll make a new neck but hopefully that won't happen. I've been reading old threads here on MN about making spiral bushings.
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There is this also, but a bit pricey for me for a first time build.
https://www.reghviolins.com/pegringer
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57 minutes ago, Richard4u said:
It's an interesting question that I'm happy to answer. I contacted the orchestra teachers for each middle and high school in the school district near me and offered each teacher a Starbucks gift card if he/she would play one of my violins so I can hear how it sounds ( I play cello ). They all accepted. Then, I gave them a business card and told them that if they knew of any student needed a violin, to contact me. Well, it worked and I've sold them to many students, mainly the high school students who are going off to college and will no longer be renting their instrument. I also got a local music store to put my violins out and if they sold one, they got a 25% commission. That worked well, too.
That's very creative! Good idea.
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I'm planning on doing a spiral bushing. I have no experience doing that but I'm going to get some practice.
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Thank you for the link Jacob. Those are some good ideas for a jig. I ended up with your method of holding with elephants until my hand got tired. Hopefully it will hold!
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Don did you bush the hole? It doesn't look like it. I am probably going to do that, I think it would be a good idea considering where the break is going through the hole.
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Wow Don, both those pictures look impressive. I was wondering after the joint is glued would it be a good idea to drill a couple small holes and glue in pins to strengthen the joint?
Is a hide glue joint as strong as the wood itself?
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I guess it's a small blessing in disguise. The first time I glued it I only got glue in those two small areas on the scroll side of the hole. Now I can get glue on the entire surface. If anyone has a good way of clamping it let me know.
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I hate to show you all this picture but I need advice. I was able to get glue into the crack but it failed. Is there any way to repair this or am I going to have to make a new neck?
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12 hours ago, Marty Kasprzyk said:
When I first started taking violin lessons I used to bash my knuckle on the corner points so I thought they were stupid so I designed my first violins not to have them. As a beginner I didn't know this was sacrilegious.
I like that!
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1 hour ago, m.makepeace said:
I'll have to do some experimenting with different blade geometries. In any case I think the hock knife is a good starting point.
I agree the hock knife look like good quality. I could use a good marking knife for wood working. I might get one of their larger ones for that.
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Yes I've read that paper. It's possible something is there that Echard's team did not detect. I think B&G analysis detected something more as I recall.
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40 minutes ago, Rico Suave said:
Would some kind soul please post a photo (or 2 or 3) of a 'good/well executed' corner and a photo of a 'bad/amateurish' corner for contrasting comparison?
See my earlier post for BAD
This one is better I think.
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Here's a good example. My 1985 VSO B.I & B.M that's before the internet and before Maestronet. On the back ignore the red half, that was a more recent varnish experiment gone wrong. The original VSO was that yellow color. Examples of what not to do.
Need repair advice
in The Pegbox
Posted
That should work!