MikeC

My objective is to make something that looks like a Cremonese arch. But with little experience I'm not sure what that means other than pics of those instruments that have so far been posted. I made arch templates from the Titian poster but the back plate is turning out to look more like that Amati.

what about the smaller scribed arc? Where does it fit? Or would that be the location of the hole for drawing the cycloid?

Manfio, That's a very scary video! Pushing that gouge towards your hand like that!

Dennis what do you mean by spiral geometry? Did I miss a post on that somewhere?

Would you agree that observation is true for the Titian Strad? Since that's the only one I have templates for, it's the only one I can check with drawing tools.

If you have a point defined by the height of the long arch and another point defined by the inflection point then a simple circular arc connecting them seems to fit the cross arches from the Titian poster. Then all you need to add is the scoop. Having said that, using cross arches on my current build I kind of screwed things up in the C bout Noob mistake!

Hi David, if you don't mind saying, which old Cremonese violins still retain the most original arching? I assume the Messiah would be one? Which others? How close is the Titian? Since I have the poster from that one.

If you mean the war of Northern aggression, we let y'all win out of kindness and hospitality. Thanks for the advice. What do you mean by pin and disk method?

Sorry I didn't see the back first time I looked. It's there. Even the back looks remarkably like the top. What do the number mean in the sidebar? are those millimeters height above the surface?

Does anyone know how to produce those moire patterns? Or does it take expensive specialized equipment?

Thanks for the advice. I've been working on it some more this morning trying to adjust some to reduce the peanut effect. I used templates traced from the Titian Strad poster. Apparently I need more practice!

thanks! Do you have a picture like that of the back?

I found this interesting image in another thread. Looks like it's ok to have somewhat of a waist in the C bout area but not as much as I've got

Peanutty is a good description I think. Seems like the value in this is not only to get symmetry but also to get an idea of where you may be going wrong or right in the arching. Here is a better picture. I made a better marking gauge and marked it on one mm increments starting at 5mm and ending at 15mm I think it's pinched in too much in the C and maybe too flat in the outer parts of the bouts. I'll continue with this one but next one make it less peanutty! Any suggestions on how to improve this one? or just leave it as is?

I wasn't careful about getting a set height for the lines. Maybe I should do it over. I need to make a better contour marker. Edges are 5mm. Since the lines are not an equal distance in height then it may be misleading. I'll redo it tomorrow.

Maybe I should have drawn one more line nearer the outer edges

I see some issues but would like other's opinions. Here is a back I'm working on and this is the first time I've tried drawing contours on one. Too pinched in the C bouts maybe? Too flat in the wide parts of the bouts maybe?

The F hole area is definitely complex. I'm still trying to figure out that area.

I made a few tools but this one is my favorite.

Thanks, hopefully once you get more accustomed to the technique you'll post more info on it. I'm not too fond of the usual 5 cross arches method or the inside first method so I just wing it

I would like to read more about the 'sausage' method. Where can I find more description of it?

I would really like to have 3D printed plates. What are some good resources to get started learning how to do that?

Is there a colored varnish on that?

30k for a Strad. Don't you whish you had bought one when they were cheap!

at timestamp 12:21 She is having entirely too much fun!