MikeC

Before I continue with the current build, someone wanted to see the last one so I made a short video.

Don't feel bad, it took me 5 years for my first one and I'm 2 years into this second build already.

Hi Mendel, I wouldn't worry too much about the pointy corners if this is your first build. You have the Titian poster right? So on your next build, copy the corner blocs from the CT scan on the poster. The shape of the corner blocks is what makes the corners. Blocks too long = corners too long. Make mistakes on the first one, correct them on the second build. Make templates from the poster from the back plate CT scan since it will be less distorted. Use half templates. Well that's what I do anyway. I'm a beginner too, not an expert, so just my suggestions.

So if the measurements are off a bit then it's good as long as the rest is in good proportion. We'll see how it turns out, I'll try to get more work done this weekend. But as usual, too many other things going on at the same time.

Finally I'm getting around to working on the neck block.

It's not as bad as I thought, after planeing off the top corners to get a square surface, it's turning out to be right at 40mm

Well I guess 38 wouldn't bee too bad, but now that I've planed the sides a bit where it was needed, looks like it's going to end up about 40mm, not as far off as I thought it would be.

That would be an option, yep. Isn't 42 kind of standard? I was wondering if 37 or 38 would look weird or if it would even be noticeable.

Looks like the neck block I have is going to limit scroll width to 38mm max. Is that a problem? The measurements I use is standard 41.8 or 42mm

Nice! It doesn't look all that subdued though. I think it will look good whatever you put on it.

I'm thinking of applying to the outside as well, just as a size not to fully seal. Maybe just on end grain areas. I like to put something in the wood for a base color and without a size the end grain areas can get dark. That's not necessarily a bad thing, dark edges can look good as part of an antiquing type finish.

I use one of these, an old jewelry burnisher.

Davide, that's a great idea to have a flat surface under the pencil. I have a small post under the pencil and I think that causes the problems I have. It's hard to maintain the pencil perpendicular with a post under it. I'm past that stage on this build but next time, I'll remove the post from my marker and try it your way.

Looking good. I made one of those pencil marking things, the pencil point tends to get stuck on the wood so it's a pain to use but it's useful to get the contour lines anyway.

And here's the Plowden. Guarneri Del Gesu. Looks nearly identical to the Strad.