FenwickG

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Everything posted by FenwickG

  1. Lee Valley has an epoxy wood filler that we use to replace broken corners on school violins that will take stain and varnish.
  2. I bought two sets of these a year ago, violin and cello. They are not as well machined as the Herdim clamps. The slot for the pin that keeps them in line is quite large for the pin so there is quite a bit of rotation. The plastic is softer than the Herdims, but that isn't really a problem. The threads are rough but still work well. The knobs on mine were knurled. Having said all of that they work well, and are, I feel safer than the spool knobs. Also they are a fraction of the cost of Herdim clamps, so one has to expect that they won't be made to the same standard.
  3. Hello Martin,I didn't buy this bow. The one I bought was last August. It was an OK usable gold mounted bow with a new (not mentioned)ferrel, ivory underslide and button with diamond. All gold parts (properly)hallmarked of course, The PRS was on the side facet of the stick. At least the PRS was under the frog on the one that was just sold. It takes time to get things correct. After reading the flamboyant description I wanted to see if the emperor had clothes. He didn't! I didn't feel cheated, because I knew I was going to be.
  4. If you check eBay #130635681294 you will see the listing for a gold and diamond Persois bow which has now ended. The pitch is that they are hallmarked, making them legal to sell in their opinion, and have diamonds. Last year I purchased a similar PRS (Persois) bow that was hallmarked and had a diamond in the end of the button. When I contacted them about devaluing bows with their laser etched hallmarks, I received a long email about it being illegal to sell gold and silver items in Great britain with out a hallmark and also they got more money for their items. Since then all the bows listed by them that I have seen have been "hallmarked and contain one or more diamonds. I was wondering if Martin would know about the legality of having to hallmark the gold and silver on bows. To me it is a desecration and devaluation of a good bow.
  5. As a bowmaker I feel that the balance of a bow is critical for ease of playing and being able to do the "tricks" that violinists do with their bows. By tricks I don't mean having their bow sit up and beg or roll over. I balance my bows by having the frog all the way forward and measuring from the end of the stick, not the button, to the point of balance. 9 1/4" seems to be ideal but anything between 9" and 9 1/2" works. Most bowmakers,even though they use different places to measure from, usually end up with the balance point in roughly the same point on the stick A bow that is tip heavy seems to feel heavy, while a frog heavy bow seems light even though they both weigh the same. Having said all this, and achieving my ideal balance point, a fiddler will grab the bow three inches ahead of the frog without any thought of balance and be perfectly happy with it.
  6. Hello. Do any of you know who made bows that are branded Paul Hilliare? Am I correct in assuming that he was an instrument maker rather than a bow maker. Thanks.
  7. There are some bowmakers who sell bow making tools as well as large dealers who specialize in violin, bow and luthier supplies. Two bowmakers sites that you might want to check out are Lynn Hannings at her site and Michael Vann at bowhair.com
  8. Putting bubble wrap or foam on varnish is not a great idea. I had to refinish quite a nice violin that looked like a leopard on the top and bottom plates because the bubbles had melted through the varnish. I have also had to touch up the varnish in the bridge area where the foam imprinted on the finish. If you are going to use bubble wrap, wrap the instrument in paper first. Padah Hound has a great idea using rolled card stock to support the bridge, strings and tailpiece.
  9. I put my files, large to needle, in a piece of 2" PVC pipe and cover them with muratic acid ( hydrochloric) and leave them for two and a half hours. Then I rinse them off in hot water and dry them. I have been doing this to them for a few years on a regular basis. I don't know all the technical reasons why, only that they cut better after their acid bath.
  10. Hi Ray how does it feel to be a celebrity appearing on a Strad publication?
  11. My experience with nitric acid on pernambuco is that it turns it brown, but some sticks have a reddish tinge to them. Every stick seems to be different in the way it reacts. Sticks I have fumed with ammonia have turned a liver red that eventually goes brown. I haven't tried potassium hydroxide (potash, lye) yet.
  12. Have a Merry Christmas with your friends and family, and all the best to you in 2011.
  13. The Sowden's hair I used was blue string Mare's and it came in fourth in the six different supplier's premium hair.Other than this, all the rest were stallion hair, which I prefer. Another bow rehairer graded them as well and other than changing the top two, placed the others in the same order. All the hair I checked was very good, but some was better than others. The differences were colour, minute differences in hair sizes and bumpy things on the hairs. Probably if I checked the same supplier' hair now the order would be different.
  14. I have had very good success with the hair sold by Cleveland Violins. I did a test and bought the "best" hair from several suppliers, including Sowden's, and theirs came out best with Pioneer Valley's hair a close second. One has to remember that the suppliers hair quality is subject to what is sent to them from China and can vary.
  15. I have tried several supplier's premium hair and so far the best I have used is from Cleveland Violins. Pioneer Valley hair was quite good as well.
  16. Not to worry Jim I have my certificate to operate an AED, so you are safe. We from the" dark side" (the bowmakers) are relying on you to continue to have Lynn's bow making workshops and to enjoy the first class facility and your hospitality.