FenwickG

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Everything posted by FenwickG

  1. Check out eBay listing number 111358980841. I almost quacked up when I read the translated version of the description.
  2. Make your own as I did. I used drill rod for one and model aircraft piano wire for the other.Both types come in many diameters. After hardening and tempering one holds its edge as well as the other. I filed them to shape by hand and it took about an hour to do one. I turned handles for them, but handles for gravers would work fine.
  3. A four jaw independant chuck can give you a precise setting but will take quite a while to set up. The suggestion of using a dial indicator to centre the stick in the chuck is a good one. The easiest way to find the centre of a new bow stick is to use a centering square and mark the centre of four or more facets. The space between all the marks in the middle will be the average centre for the stick. Of course if you make perfect octagons you will only need to mark two sides. I solved the problem by buying a Bow Badger. It is quicker, safer, and more precise.
  4. I bought the first one that was sold. It makes fitting butt bushings in cracked bows very easy and precise. The way the jaws come together centres the bow for drilling and supports it while drilling is taking place. After drilling a 1/4" hole for the bushing in the bow it left a thickness on the flat of the remaining facet of 1.7 thousandths with no further cracking. It is just as useful for drilling the screw hole on new bows and having them centred perfectly. It is less risky to the bow doing it on the Bow Badger than in a lathe, which I used to use. No more bow whipping around. If you are doing a lot of bow repairs or making new bows I feel it will pay for itself in the long run. There are other ways of doing these jobs which are quite successful, but the Bow Badger simplifies the job by reducing the risks of breakage and doing a very precise repair.
  5. Lee Valley castings for their planes were cast in a foundry in Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada. I don't know if they still are, but at the time I was told this by a company official, this foundry produced superior investment castings. I use Stanley Bedrock and Sargent VBM planes which are fine for what I do. Veritas and Lie Nielsen are nice though.
  6. I have always been under the impression that a clean shop is the sign of a sick mind. For all that that is worth.
  7. All the best to you in 2014. I hope it hangs around longer than 2013 did.
  8. My supplier in Canada said the Amber E's aren't available in the US and Austria pending a legal patent dispute, but are available in Canada. They were out of stock when I inquired about getting more. I do like them, but like most strings, they don't work on every instrument.
  9. Daryl, I feel that your thinking is a bit muddied. I feel confidant that most, perhaps all North American bow and violin makers would not knowingly use poached ivory. I also know that things are not perfect, if they were CITES would have been responsible for stopping this abhorrent practice. It hasn't, and the poached ivory is going to other countries that are in the bow and instrument trade in a big way, and could care less about elephants. Using Mammoth ivory is a legitimate way to have ivory "trimmings" without resorting to poached ivory. This is my opinion for what it is worth.
  10. I just received this email from David Warther, who works with ivory and supplies bow tips and other mammoth and legal elephant ivory pieces. What the US Government is proposing seems rather draconian, especially in the Land of the Free. Apparently all forms of ivory are included. It will impact the musical instrument trade as well as any other that uses any form of ivory. I imagine even the tooth fairy will be unemployed. This is what he sent me. Hello Everyone! Ivory Ban - The Presidential Advisory Committee that met 12/16/13 does plan to recommend a total ban on ivory sales, within the US, to the task force on Wildlife Trafficking. If you want to oppose that action please email ACWT@FWS.GOV before December 28th when they file their report. I have attached a letter beneath my signature (below) that you can use by cutting and pasting but feel free to change it as may fit your interests and work. This is not a ban on new ivory but rather a ban on the sale of ALL ivory that is in any form. This includes pre-ban and antique ivory in musical instruments, knives, guns, cues, etc. and will make Grandma's piano illegal to sell if it has ivory keys. This sounds ludicrous but it is true. If this passes then it will take the form of a bill that will be set before Congress in 2014. Presently this ban on the sale of ivory is to include fossil mammoth ivory as well as pre-ban and antique elephant ivory. Please forward this information to everyone you think may want to voice their opposition to this type of government control. Sincerely , David Warther 2561 Crestview Dr. NW Dover , Ohio 44622 www.guitarpartsandmore.com ( website ) Letter : Dear Advisory Committee, I stand against a total ban of all ivory sales in the US. As called for in the Presidential Executive Order I ask that the recommendations continue to allow for "legal and legitimate commerce”. The ivory market in the US is stable and /or declining, and the seizure records indicate that a high proportion of the seizures made were personal effects lacking the correct paperwork, not the “blood tusks “ spoken about in the media. The Elephant Trade Information System (ETIS) analysis indicated that the amount of ivory (by weight) seized annually has not increased in recent years. WE are not the consumers of the poached ivory. Therefore banning ivory sales within the US will do nothing to save the remaining world population of elephants. CITES MIKE report (Monitoring the Illegal Killing of Elephants) September 2013 report, page 64 analysis states "Africa's elephant populations are managed sustainably" and that in 2013 the quota for permits for legal elephants was 1350 animals. There is legal trade that can be monitored with DNA testing and permitting. Enforcing and policing a ban would use funds that should be used to support the ban on imports already in effect. I fully support the CITES rules, closing international borders to elephant ivory trade, a law already in effect that should be fully supported and enforced. I stand against a total ban of all ivory commerce within our United States borders, a decision that would be an enforcement nightmare. Like prohibition it will cause a new wave of illicit commerce where a legitimate one now exists. Museums, antique dealers, collectors, artisans and individual citizens have invested in a legal and valuable material. Sanctioned trade in ivory that is legal (culled and pre-ban) and comes from unthreatened sources (mammoth, boar, warthog, antique and recycled products) can pose no possible threat to elephant herds in the wild. I believe our mutual goals are the same and a solution can be reached. Please keep the focus where it belongs. To increase the elephant population the killing must be stopped in Africa and at its borders. Respectfully Submitted,
  11. " Do you play the Violin?" "Yes; for my own amusement and other people's anguish."
  12. If the hair is not too dirty and is mostly located near the frog where the thumb contacts it I use methanol on a cloth to clean it. Alcohol does dry the hair out and should be used as little as possible. I have on occasion used it to clean all the hair, but when all the hair gets dirty enough that it needs cleaning, it is time for a rehair. I avoid using water and soap to clean hair. I am not worried about the frog or tip rotting, but rather swelling with the water and cracking the mortice. Cleaning the stick is simple. Use as many patches as necessary soaked in methanol or other alcohol and dissolve and remove the old rosin build up. In most cases it will remove some or all of the finish on the stick, but a lot of this finish has been worn away by playing. A nice french polish will restore the finish to new. I wouldn't scrape the stick for fear of scratching or scraping away some of the wood. I am sure there are other methods to clean the stick, but so far these have worked well for me.
  13. Trenchworker; scrape a small shaving from the bottom of the mortise and put it in a few drops of water. If the waster turns pink in a few minutes it is probably a pernambuco bow.
  14. I use a small Record hand drill clamped horizontally in my vise. I know it isn't traditional and the French didn't use it, but it works.
  15. I have had the book for a while and it is great value for the price. A must have on every bookshelf.
  16. FenwickG

    snapped bow

    I have repaired two bows using the method I was taught by David Orlin at Oberlin. Both bows played as good after the repair as they did before the fracture. It is not a quick fix but the results are worth it. This is the type of restoration and repairs that take place at the Oberlin workshops. David, Rodney, and Jerry are a wealth of knowledge and great instructors.
  17. I have had a couple of steel Heddon bows. The heads are aluminum and fit into the steel shaft. The ones I have seen have had plastic frogs and buttons. They actually don't play that bad, and one that I currently have has been used so much that the facits are worn off on the butt end.
  18. This appears to be a German bow to me. Are the large and small heel plates one or two pieces. French bows are usually two piece and most one piece are German. The Roman numeral assembly marks are generally under the lapping on the stick. Sartory bows that I have seen that are genuine are marked E SARTORY A PARIS not just SARTORY. As with violins, nothing is for sure with bows.
  19. I use a chisel not a plane, but then what does a bow maker know about fitting bridges?
  20. Walter Paulus in Germany has the proper screws in both brass and steel. It is best to avoid steel because over time it reacts with the ebony and rusts, which in turn can crack the frog.
  21. Hello Sally,er, Pebbles I have a copy of the Scott Zumberge book. It has been very useful. The downside is that the measurements are imperial not metric. Not a huge problem, but a nusiance. The book is out of print and not a large number were printed in the first place. I have lost your email, perhaps you still have mine when I made the bow nipple cutters for you. I have changed servers. The first part is the same but it is now @telus.net . Let me know if you would like a copy of mine.
  22. I haven't received mine yet. It was nice to have them after the judging, as before. But as they announed, this is the 21 century and things are done on line, which means you might get them or not.
  23. I found out the hard way that ebony isn't the best material for head splines. It is brittle and will break across the grain. A pernambuco spline is much stronger and will make a stronger repair. The black ebony stripe looks nice, but the pernambuco blends better with the existing wood.
  24. G2 epoxy is another brand that is well suited to pernambuco. It has a long working time and works well with acidic woods. Clean the break and spline with acetone before using to remove any oils that might be there.
  25. I just received one of these lights with the violin and cello heads. They are amazing at how they light up the inside of an instrument. No excuses for bad fitting sounposts now. Also the potential for damaging the edges of the f holes is greatly reduced. Doug did ship to Canada and it took five days to get here, but that isn't a given since it goes through Customs.